Ignition coils go bad on many of the models from this year.
Whenever one of
the ignition coils goes bad, it's also recommended to replace all the spark plugs if they haven't been replaced in a while.
Not exact matches
The usual idea is that with 2 wires; one is
ignition controlled 12v and
goes to the resistor (block on the side with two terminals) so that the
coil receives about 9v during normal running.
Look at your wiring harness, specifically the lines
going to the O2 sensors,
ignition coils and other sensors (IAT, MAP and / or MAF, etc.) Look at any plastic parts that may have melted.
First, last thursday a
coil went bad which produced # 2 cylinder misfire and
ignition...
They towed me to a garage and they tried replacing the
ignition coil and the spark plugs as they believed this to be the solution, it wasn't as the car still had no power and
went through the oil again.
When I meassure the voltage of the wire that
goes to the
Ignition coil, it reads 12.4 V, so that should be good.
So you add the feedback signal (Fig. 1C above), which
goes low when the
ignition signal is received, and high when the
coil is charged.
It sounds like what you are describing is a classic sign of a failing
ignition coil that may be getting too hot to operate properly and is
going through a heat cycling phase.
Called Saab DI (Direct
Ignition) each spark plug had its own
coil and
gone was the distributor with its moving parts.
It has nearly constantly had a check engine light on, I have replaces the spark plugs more times than I care to count because of faulty
ignition coils, and the Evaporative Emissions Sensor has now
gone out, which I am fairly sure is not even a thing.