If you have a dirty air filter, clogged PCV valve, or defective
MAF sensor you may be tempted to just run down to the local auto parts chain store for a...
This is because intake manufacturers can use a variety of different style MAF flanges, tubing sizes, and even bends before and after
the MAF sensor can all create different readings for the ECU.
Visor fell off, CD changer did not function, keyless remote needed to be replaced, steering malfunctioned, tire blew at high speed on interstate, and finally
a MAF sensor went out.
Head liners falling down, other trim falling off loose, storage bins falling down, engine sensors failing, ignition module failing,
MAF sensor, and dead dash lights.
Includes power distribution module, air box, air inlet tube,
MAF sensor, upper and lower radiator hoses and HEGO sensors
Sometimes problems of idle air control valve or
MAF sensor may happen, and as for the rest, it is perfect.
The Check Engine light with the code p0171 could be caused by a contaminated
MAF sensor.
The most common causes are the power brake booster, vacuum leak,
MAF sensor, oxygen sensor, crankshaft...
I believe it's a sensor just don't know which one and if the car ran better when I emmidietly put in
MAF sensor new, but shortly after it returned to running rough.
The other shop had replaced
the MAF sensor, changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, plenum gasket, air intake snorkel and the A / F sensor.
They do not have any significant problems, except for the ones of idle air control valve and
MAF sensor, which happen from time to time.
It differs in
MAF sensor, and also intake manifold which uses Tumble Generator Valves.
i have a stock engine with no major modification other than a straight pipe exhaust i actually did the modification as a solution to my problem my car revs fine IE there is no misfire or sputtering while revving up but the car doesn't seem to have the pull for a V8.i have changed
the maf sensor, vvti sensor, fuel pump, throtle body, plugs and even the gear still it doesn't seem to have fix my problem.
Clears all trouble codes and completes a test drive to see if the P2281 diagnostic trouble code comes back (if so, checks
the MAF sensor for dirt and debris and clean
the MAF sensor as necessary)
The fact that you remove the mass air flow sensor and the engine appears to run fine might be an indication that the root source of your problem is the electrical harness that connects
the MAF sensor to...
Carb cleaner leaves an oily type residue that is not good for the electronics within
the MAF sensor.
The P0101 trouble code may keep returning if the engine computer does not see
the MAF sensor input within a specified range when it is testing the MAF input.
If there are no codes, the procedure is to try to replicate the fault while reading (on a scanner) real time streaming OBD - II data particularly that tracking the electronic throttle controls, throttle position sensor,
MAF sensor and so forth.
Hi There, It sounds like unplugging
the MAF sensor may be related to the issue with the purge solenoid that has not been replaced.
To increase the power considerably, you need to purchase performance cams (duration 272/272), valve springs, cam gears, rod bolts, high compression forged pistons, fuel injectors 440 cc, new spark plugs, performance
MAF sensor, Kinetix intake manifold, cold air intake, equal length headers, performance exhaust system, Motec ECU (or reflash stock ECU).
If the voltage signal reading of the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor sends a voltage signal to the PCM that does not coincide with the voltage signal that is sent from
the MAF sensor, the P2281 diagnostic trouble code will be stored and the check engine light will come on.
If any, you need to check the oxygen sensor and
MAF sensor.
Beyond
the MAF sensor, in most cases, an engine that stumbles when it's cold is caused by one of three different components: clogged fuel injectors, a dirty throttle body, or an EGR valve that is damaged or also...
If you don't have the cold start injector this diagram may be wrong but maybe backtrace the harness from
the maf sensor it looks like there is a couple splices that power a bunch of related items.
@Ben - We haven't had any MAF codes recently but did have EGR codes that made us question and replace
the MAF sensor.
But, the loads on the relay are fused at 10 A, 30 A, and 10 A (ECM and injection pump, PCV heat, and engine control solenoids and
the MAF sensor).
Recent work: new fuel and air filters, spark plugs, wires, and distributor cap, PCV valve, replaced intake manifold gaskets, catalytic converter, cleaned
MAF sensor, and replaced PCM.
They did find that the remanufactured
MAF sensor wasn't working consistently, but only randomly, so that got replaced with another one.
This will factor in operational deviations like an leak in the intake tract or degraded
MAF sensor.
Some values to check are fuel pressure, fuel trims, MAP sensor,
MAF sensor, throttle position, ECT and IAT sensors.
If you still have vibration, replace
the MAF sensor.
At least in my car when
the MAF sensor got dirty it would idle very roughly while being perfectly smooth when moving.
Engine load is measured by
the MAF sensor.
Possibly dirty air filter or
MAF sensor?
Given the symptoms and your data that the system is lean, I would look for an intake leak, somewhere between
the MAF sensor and the manifold gasket.
Cleaning
the MAF sensor with electronic cleaner may help restore the sensor's functionality.
Try to run the engine with disconnected
maf sensor.
A vacuum leak is definitely a possibility since your car has
a MAF sensor.
The MAF supplies air flow and temperature data to the car's computer, a failing
MAF sensor can definitely produce surging at idle which is what it sounds like you have.
I ordered a new
MAF sensor to arrive tomorrow to see if that settles the mater.
Since your cylinders may be especially dirty from running without
the MAF sensor, I'd recommend using seafoam to clean it up.
i have my previous
MAF sensor (4pin) with me.
This can be a faulty
MAF sensor as it is common to both banks.
and found spark plugs are covered with black smock due to driving with disconnected
MAF sensor.
This is because the onboard fuel management is designed around a certain
MAF sensor mapping, so it interprets a certain voltage as a certain air flow (e.g. 2.0 V = 50 kg / h).
MAF sensor replacement is usually straightforward and requires only basic hand tools
After i bought it, i had check engine lights on, then i drove it to a mechanical shop few times and then they discovered that
MAF sensor wiring has disconnected and they reconnected it.
but i replaced both AirFilter and
MAF sensor (original sensor was 4pin but replaced one is a 5pin) and i asked mechanic to tune the engine, as there is nothing to tun in EFI... he cleaned the engine.
I can't help but wonder if we fixed
the MAF sensor first if the O2 sensor would've needed replacing.
If you are able to view
the MAF sensor signal voltage on an OBD2 scanner, then do so.