Ok so Tuesday we decided after an early morning surf check on the Outer
Reefs had wave height down in the 2 - 3ft range (waist to head high) between Kuta Reef and Airport Left.
Pretty well much as expected this mornings at 6.30 AM the Outer
Reefs had wave height still in the head to double head high plus plus sector.
Early to bed & early to rise, so this mornings 6.30 AM surf check on the Outer
Reefs had wave height still only showing in the 1 - 2ft... [Read more...]
Ok so this mornings 6.30 AM surf check on the Outer
Reefs had wave height dropping back a touch, back down to that waist to... [Read more...]
This morning's 6.45 AM surf check on the Outer
Reefs had wave height still showing in the waist to head high range between Kuta Reef and Airport Left.
Not exact matches
By validating model results against geological observations, the study indicates that changes in runoff, sea level and
wave energy
have profoundly affected the past evolution of the Great Barrier
Reef not only in regard to
reefs evolution but also sediment fate from source - to - sink.
In a recent study, a team of researchers from the University of Sydney's School of Geosciences
has designed a new model that simulates sediment transport from mountains to coasts, reworking of marine sediments by
wave - induced currents, and development of coral
reefs.
Over time, the growing colonies
would form natural
reefs that
would soften destructive
waves and storm surge.
If the period of the group
waves had been in sync with the natural oscillation period of the fringing
reef, the
wave would have amplified due to resonance and could
have been even more destructive.
«Until now, we
have believed that
reefs serve as a reliable protection from storm
waves,» says Bricker.
The team then simulated the height of a
wave after it
has passed the
reef, known as the back -
reef wave height, under several scenarios.
Studies
have shown that
reefs shield people, infrastructure, and lagoon ecosystems from
wave and storm surges.
On the east coast, coral
reef bleaching, heat
waves and increased hurricane intensity are just some of the warming - related hazards Floridians
have had to deal with in recent years.
Professor Young says: «A number of previous studies
have investigated the attenuation (height reduction) of ocean
waves as they spread across individual coral
reefs.
In front of one barrier island, concrete
reef balls and bags filled with oyster shells now absorb
wave action that
had chewed a foot - high edge on the island's marshy shoreline.
However, the
wave would likely be dampened significantly by the presence of any coral
reefs.
Evidences show coral
reefs play a critical role in
wave attenuation but relatively little direct connection
has been drawn between these effects and impacts on shorelines.
Most
reef fish at least depend on corals as a nursery, meaning the recent heat
wave could
have widespread impacts on breeding success that affects commercial fisheries down the line.
Loss of these frameworks also
has consequences for the important roles that coral
reefs play in supporting fisheries and protecting coastlines from
wave stress.
The South Caicos
reef has established our island as a top dive destination, while also acting as a buffer, sheltering our island from rough
waves and storms.
This week in Lembongan... The
waves have picked up in the south, so the manta sites
have been unreachable but this means we
have spent the week drifting over the colourful soft corals of the slopping
reefs on the north coast of Nusa Penida.
Truly a surfer's dream, Nicaragua
has dozens of beaches and surfing spots that produces world class
waves from beach breaks,
reef breaks and point breaks.
It
has a number of breaks that unlike Zambales are all
reef breaks, with bigger and faster
waves on the season.
Birds
have played a very important part in the establishment of this beautiful coral cay, a build up of rubble and sediments from thousands of years of
wave action surrounding the
reefs.
In Ericeira is an exposed
reef break that usually
has waves and can work at any time of the year.
Not for snorkeling or swimming, this beach, just across from South Friars on the Atlantic side,
has rough
waves, pounding surf and rocky
reefs close to shore.
Punta Uva and Playa Chiquita
have ridable but dangerous
reef breaks, although at times some of these
waves are ideal for beginners.
This
wave has a mellow wall and a quite deep
reef, making it more suited to intermediate surfers.
Because of the combination of northerly and southerly swells the Galapagos
has a high degree of consistency over 70 % during the season, although some of the breaks are deepwater volcanic rock
reef waves which take a moderate to strong swell to go off.
To combat the ecological effect that time
has eroded on this Indian Ocean surf spot since the film release, top - notch artificial
reefs are being introduced to produce an awesome barrelling
wave.
It
has a
reef that, according to legend, was built by the a Tarascan king, and which forms a haven from the
waves, although surfers can sometimes be seen catching
waves as they curl around the entrance to the bay.
Victoria Bay is a popular spot for surfers, as the area
has right - hand,
reef - like
waves which roll over small boulder - like rocks for about 200 m.
Most importantly, the guides know where to surf and where the
waves will
have enough power to get you riding, but at the same time keep you safe from rocks,
reef, riptides and pounding shore break.
Despite this, Prime Minister Dean Barrow and the government of Belize
have decided to move forward with a plan that, according to the World Wildlife Fund, «involves using airguns to blast shock
waves through the water that are powerful enough to penetrate the seafloor» less than one mile from the UNESCO Heritage site of the Belize Barrier
Reef Reserve System.
Nahoon beach is a surfer's and swimmer's paradise and is arguably East London's most popular beach - we're talking kilometres of (mostly) uncrowded and unpolluted sand and sea that produces some of the best
waves, particularly at the famous Nahoon
reef where surfing can be fairly tough, hence its
having served as a venue for many of the national surfing competitions.
But Bali
has even more to recommend it beyond its spectacular beauty (as if that was n`t enough): an open and welcoming populace with a unique culture and deeply spiritual nature; the surrounding
reefs and nearby islands with their diverse flora and fauna; world class scuba diving; and, perhaps the major draw, stunning sand beaches that vary from the soothing and serene to a surfer's paradise with breaking
waves that provide some of the best surf conditions in the Pacific.
It was small, but we
had at least a few little
waves for our first surf at a
reef break in Guethary.
Large
waves have the power to snap bones on direct impact, drive one hard enough into a
reef or sand bottom to cause carwreck - like injuries, or even drive one deep into undersea caverns and ledges where panic can lead to drowning.
The beach
has a rock -
reef break, which allows you to go both left and right on the
wave.
When the tide drops, it can expose previously hidden
reef, rocks, sand, etc., and when the tide is high, it can cover up the surf spot with so much water that it ceases to
have any
waves at all.
Only the most experienced of surfers should hang around Salsa Brava, because this
reef breaking
wave has been known to rip inexperienced surfers apart with it's notorious «cheese grater».
In one side of this beautiful beach the tide is strong and
has big
waves ideal for surfing; in the middle is a safer place to swim, next to the Suarez river estuary, and at the other side of Playa Blanca there is a coral
reef and a lake.
It is common for several New Zealand surf zones to be working simultaneously off multiple swell sources, so quite often you'll actually
have a choice between equally compelling surf based on personal preferences such as
wave direction (lefts vs. rights),
wave types (points, beachbreaks, rivermouths,
reefs),
wave size, or surroundings!
Today the 29th and my 7.00 AM surf check on the Outer
reefs was showing
wave height to
have backed off into the 2 - 4ft range from Kuta
Reef to Airport Left.
The Malpais area
has a couple of great spots with longer
waves the usually go off with larger swells, one at the point behind Sunset
Reef Hotel, adjacent to Cabo Blanco reserve and another near the soccer field in Malpais.
So many times I
have avoided surfing
waves at home that are crowded, slightly dangerous, such as
reef breaks, or surf spots which I considered above my ability level.
Whether you want to relax on soft sands while the
waves wash onto the shores, plan a diving expedition to see the colourful marine life and coral
reefs, or explore the historic town, the memories of a trip to beautiful Lucea are guaranteed to linger long after your tan
has faded.
It
has a fast take - off that will drop you straight into a barrel section, then the
wave tapers around the
reef where you will get a nice wall that eases up on the outside of the
wave.
You'll be surfing easy
waves on surrounding sand beaches and easy
reef breaks where you'll
have a safe and comfortable experience when you explore the
waves for the first time.
In its first year as a World Surf League (WSL) Qualifying Series (QS) 1,000 event, the perfect
reef break of Lance's Right
has been completed in firing four foot
waves.