Vacuum leak air is not being sucked thru air filter.
Not exact matches
But maintaining this partial
vacuum in an industrial plant is difficult, and up to 25 per cent of the magnesium vapour may be reoxidised by
air that
leaks into the system.
Given that it only happens when it's warm I am thinking there must be a
vacuum leak and for a moment it sucks in too much
air.
Other possible sources:
Vacuum Leak Other Ignition item (Plug Wires, Distributer, etc.) Really poor fuel
Air Filter Blocked Exhaust Blockage I would start with the spark plugs.
But check all
Vacuum hoses on eng especially on computer control EGR control Valve A big
leak or blown hose will cause the DPE code, Plus if hose blown (melted) will cause stalling, rough idle and smell through the
air intake duct..
Consider also
vacuum leaks as the potential cause, as a
vacuum leak can affect the
air / fuel ratio.
The reasons we had the gaskets and O - Rings replaced is because using a
Vacuum Gauge and
air compressor allowed us to find some
leaks in those regions.
Since the intake manifold pressure is directly measured to calculate the intake
air volume and decide the amount of fuel to inject, a
vacuum leak theoretically can not contribute to a lean condition like this.
If there's a
vacuum leak, then it can act just like you're hitting the pedal as it can introduce additional
air into the system - just like what happens when the throttle is opened up.
My bad, forgot to update in these comments lol But I got everything sorted out fine, followed some of the trouble shooting tips from your answer, and I cleaned the carbs one last time to be sure, also cut some mounts up on the
air box so I could push it more flush up against the carbs without them stopping it, and made sure to screw it down real tight, Bike works amazingly now, there's still a slight
vacuum leak from 1 - 2 fittings but at least now I know exactly what it is, just got ta decide if im gonna fix it or buy a new airbox, thanks for your help man!
A
vacuum leak can trigger a «check engine» light because the fuel system is running too «lean,» meaning it has a greater mix of
air than is ideal.
Remember you'll need new gaskets to do this or your new engine will have plenty of issues (like
vacuum leaks in the intake which will allow unmetered
air into the intake system, and exhaust
leaks which will allow
air into the exhaust track allowing for really crappy gas mileage.).
Recharged AC had great
air and took to mechanic and they
vacuumed and recharged did not find
leak.
Are you talking about
vacuum pipes that are used to move the flaps that control the flow of hot / cold
air into the cabin, or are you talking about using a
vacuum pump to test if your A / C refrigerant pipes are
leaking?
Some Examples:
Air filter clogged Exhaust
leak plugged cat clogged fuel injector malfunctioning fuel pressure regulator clogged fuel filter malfunctioning fuel pump spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil
Vacuum leak dirty throttle body malfunctioning fast idle thermo valve (similar to vacuum leak) low oil (unless there is an oil level sensor) belts gaskets seals rings low compression bearing damage (rod knock) Broken cam rocker fell / broke off broken valve spring stuck valve critical engine damage (windowed the block) wiring, fuses, relays starting system - ignition switch, starter, relay Cooling system - clogs, leaks, flow (may throw a code if you overheat) transmission clutch (es) driveshaft, differential, axles brakes suspension tires hvac lights
Vacuum leak dirty throttle body malfunctioning fast idle thermo valve (similar to
vacuum leak) low oil (unless there is an oil level sensor) belts gaskets seals rings low compression bearing damage (rod knock) Broken cam rocker fell / broke off broken valve spring stuck valve critical engine damage (windowed the block) wiring, fuses, relays starting system - ignition switch, starter, relay Cooling system - clogs, leaks, flow (may throw a code if you overheat) transmission clutch (es) driveshaft, differential, axles brakes suspension tires hvac lights
vacuum leak) low oil (unless there is an oil level sensor) belts gaskets seals rings low compression bearing damage (rod knock) Broken cam rocker fell / broke off broken valve spring stuck valve critical engine damage (windowed the block) wiring, fuses, relays starting system - ignition switch, starter, relay Cooling system - clogs,
leaks, flow (may throw a code if you overheat) transmission clutch (es) driveshaft, differential, axles brakes suspension tires hvac lights gauges
Having just replaced the PVC valve on a 2013 TSI and still getting a P2177 code I started looking for
vacuum leaks and would like to know if it is normal for a good PCV valve to expel a small amount of
air through the vent hole?
That won't tell you were the
leak is (unless it's huge and you can hear the
air getting back into the system), but it will tell you if you have one, and it will also give you an idea of the size of the
leak (by how fast the
vacuum is lost).
This could be cause by a small
vacuum leak or by a dirty
air filter or mass airflow sensor (MAF).
So if you have black smoke, it can be an
air /
vacuum leak, VGT valve, exhaust pipe, etc..
If I removed this
air pump and shut off valve, the
vacuum line would be open, which I think may cause
vacuum leak.
You might also check
vacuum lines and intake manifold gasket for
air leaks.
This means there is more
air than usual such as a
vacuum leak or EGR opening up when it's not supposed to.
Start a
vacuum -
leak smoking expedition by plugging up any obvious potential ports in the intake manifold, starting with the inlet to the throttle body from the
air cleaner.
A leaky manifold gasket can also result in
air being sucked through the leaky gasket, resulting in a
vacuum leak and poor engine performance.
Common faults would be the faulty throttle body, throttle body linkage, fuel restriction,
vacuum leak, idle
air valve, or...
If there is no
vacuum leak, then check the idle
air control valve (IAC) and see if it's...
A
vacuum leak from items like a broken
air intake boot, broken / disconnected
vacuum lines, or a
leaking intake manifold gasket can lean out the
air / fuel mixture or disturb intake airflow enough to...
The problem sounds like you either have a massive
vacuum leak or a problem with the idle
air control valve.
A
vacuum leak can cause an engine to idle high due to the excessive amount of
air flow into the fuel injection system.
If this issue it only occurring at idle, then it is either due to a
vacuum leak in the engine or more commonly a failing idle
air control valve.
Stalling at idle could be due to a faulty mass airflow sensor, faulty camshaft or crankshaft position sensors, worn spark plugs, wires or defective ignition coil (s), inadequate fuel delivery or pressure (clogged fuel filter, injectors, faulty fuel pump or pump circuit), contaminated or old gasoline, defective throttle position sensor, faulty idle
air control valve,
leaks in the EGR system, intake
vacuum leaks, and so forth.
There are many causes of hard starting but illustrative ones are a faulty engine coolant temperature switch (sensor), malfunctioning idle
air control (IAC) valve,
vacuum and EGR
leaks, inadequate fuel delivery or pressure (clogged fuel filter, dirty fuel injectors), and contaminated or old gasoline.
Any rubber boot, bellows or
vacuum hose that is allowing
air to
leak in can affect the way the car runs.
There are several possible sources that trigger these two codes including a faulty fuel pressure regulator, weak fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, faulty powertrain control module,
vacuum leak, faulty injector (s), faulty oxygen sensor (s) and a faulty mass
air...
The hissing sound you heard was
air leaking through either a
vacuum or vent valve in the brake booster itself.
Fuel related misfires can be caused by many different things such as low fuel pressure, faulty or dirty fuel injectors, a faulty O2 sensor, a dirty or failing mass
air - flow sensor, a faulty or dirty idle
air control valve or a
vacuum or intake
leak.
Common causes of the P0506 diagnostic trouble code are
vacuum leaks and dirty throttle body
air passages.
It is also important to check for
vacuum leaks and carbon buildup in the throttle body
air passages.
With the car running and while applying the brake, checks for
vacuum leaks in the
vacuum lines, hoses,
air inlet tubes, and fuel injector
However, if all cylinders are affected, you would test, in turn: the fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump pressure, check for a clogged fuel filter,
vacuum leak, faulty oxygen sensor (s) and faulty mass
air flow sensor.
Check carefully under the hood to be sure there are no
air large
air leaks in the intake system, such as the big boot at the throttle body or any other large
vacuum hoses.
The causes include
vacuum leaks and EGR system faults, a faulty idle
air control (IAC) valve or circuit, faults in the fuel pump control circuit, defective...
If you get the engine started, but it stalls, there could be a problem with the throttle position sensor, the idle
air control valve, the EGR system,
vacuum leaks, and so forth.
What can cause the code P0446: - faulty vent control valve - blockage at the vent hose, vent filter or vent control valve - open or short in the vent control valve circuit - bad charcoal canister - EVAP system
leak - faulty EVAP system pressure sensor - bad
vacuum switching valve (VSV)(Toyota, Lexus)- stuck open purge valve (solenoid) Examples: - A GM technical service bulletin for 1999 - 2007 Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra describes a problem when if the vehicle is driven in dusty environment, the dust can enter into the canister vent hose and cause restricted
air flow that can set the code P0446.
In a more technical jargon,
vacuum or intake
leaks are called «unmetered
air», as the
air enters the intake system through a damage intake boot or other
leak is not metered by the mass
air flow sensor and therefore the the engine computer can not calculate the amount of fuel injected properly, causing the engine to run «lean».
An
air leak anywhere between the engine intake and the
air filter is usually called
vacuum or Intake
leak.