Sentences with phrase «wunderfil wood filler»

did you use any wood filler to conceal the screws holding the tops / bottoms?
I think that's the issue with most wood fillers, Beck.
Once the wood filler has dried, sand any spots that may need another pass, wipe off the dust and dirt to prepare the surface for priming.
It's not your standard issue wood filler.
I did have to fill the nail holes but I just used my finger and added the wood filler.
I have used wood filler but only on a small piece.
Clean the cabinet door using the Krud Cutter prepaint cleaner and patch the screw holes using the FamoWood latex wood filler.
Oh it's also sturdier than wood filler, so it's harder to sand, which means we used even less than we should have over each nail / crack.
After the wood filler and epoxy putty have had time to dry, use a sanding sponge (or electric sander) to sand the drawers smooth.
There were a couple spots from the knobs that I wanted to fill, so I used wood filler on them.
After the wood filler was dry and the excess sanded off, I then painted the entire dresser with the brown PPG Break - Through!
I started to repair it with wood filler, but then seeing just how loose it was, decided to try peeling it off instead.
Hi Diann — If you are going to distress, you would want to use wood filler since the area where you distress you will see the wood.
I thought of filling it with wood filler and sanding...?
Or, did you use wood filler to «fix» some damage or did you decide to go from a «handle» to just a knob in regards to hardware and — you filled in the holes on the drawer fronts?
I filled every single little hole with wood filler and sanded once it was dry.
If it were wood, I would suggest trying wood filler or even spackle, but Bondo would be better for metal.
I decided to use wood filler on the large gouges in the picture above.
Lee Relvas, Looking, 2016, wood filler, expo, polyurethane, 160x71x38cm.
Poplar, paste wax, plaster, wood filler, pencil on oil on canvas, oil on string, oil on organza, primed brass, primedsteel, graphite, and felt - tip pen on muslin, hardware, and hair.
JESSICA STOCKHOLDER [JS 493] 2009 TV wall mounting bracket, plastic parts, black plastic with fake animal pattern, frame, metal scrap, yarn, spring, umbrella fabric, oil paint, wood filler 62 by 17 1/2 by 15 in.
From just the picture I would even them out, fill the gaps with wood filler and use a gel stain that is closest to matching.You can pound the staples in and just use wood filler to cover the hammer marks if you use a darker gel stain.
I tried to repair wood steps with wood filler once and it just crumbled away under the paint because it wouldnt stick to the step.
Tip: Your finger is a great tool for applying wood filler to curved surfaces.
I swear by Wunderfil wood filler!
As the sides were so badly damaged, I tried to fix the damage and used some wood filler to fill the chipped area and once they were dry I sanded them slightly..
I'm pinning the wood filler - I've not tried that one yet, and I am sure it will come in handy soon.
We used wood filler to fill in the gaps between the boards, (once it was dry, we sanded) and then cut the trim to fit.
Fill holes with wood filler and sand smooth.
Tip: Your finger is the best tool for applying wood filler to curved surfaces.
A little wood filler in some of the corners to smooth it out, and some paint...
I thought of filling it with wood filler and sanding...?
The sides were damaged and ripped, so I used some wood filler and sanded over to get a nice smooth finish.
Did you nail directly into the top of the plank (which you would need to fill the holes with spackle or wood filler) or did you nail into the groove like you would for hardwood floors?
BTW, the old rack is going from forest green to a bronzy brown with previous «pecan» warped wood top to natural wood top with «peg holes» (read: turned over top, filled old screw holes with wood filler, then used dark furniture crayon on top, and LOTS of polyurethane of course!)
You can buy the Durham's rock hard water putty at any hardware store and mix it yourself, or for better results I have used Zinsser's wood filler (don't know the exact name) but found it at Home Depot.
I need a few boards for the deck (puppy chewed boards do not look good), wood filler to fix the inside puppy chewed baseboards, kind of need new carpet for the kids» rooms, oh, and more Valspar paint to repaint the ugly, icky brown stained front door.
This is all I used: Valspar Chalky Finish paint in Boot Black Polycrylic by Minwax wood filler and putty knife drawer knobs drill Purdy paint brushes (the smaller one is great for doing the sides!)
I would fill in the nail holes with wood filler, sand those spots, and paint the molding the same color as the cabinet.
After all of the wood filler has cured and hardened, sand all of your boards, to smooth out all the bumps and prepare the piece for color.
Fill all cracks, knots, and nail holes with wood filler.
Once the wood filler dried, I sanded it very well and then was able to paint it.
Did you know that Minwax makes pre-stained wood filler?
I went on and painted one coat of chalk paint on the drawers and then used the wood filler to fill the holes.
Now it's time to fill holes with wood filler, caulk and paint!
I had to do a lot of sanding and use a lot of wood filler and it still wasn't perfect, but that might be the look you are going for!
Fill any cracks or holes with flexible wood filler, such as Wilko's Knot a Problem.
Countersink the nails, fill the holes with wood filler (or spackle), and paint the color of your choice!
After the wood filler and epoxy putty have had time to dry, use a sanding sponge (or electric sander) to sand the drawers smooth.
This wood filler changes color from purple to neutral when its dry and ready to be sanded!
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