did you use
any wood filler to conceal the screws holding the tops / bottoms?
I think that's the issue with most
wood fillers, Beck.
Once
the wood filler has dried, sand any spots that may need another pass, wipe off the dust and dirt to prepare the surface for priming.
It's not your standard issue
wood filler.
I did have to fill the nail holes but I just used my finger and added
the wood filler.
I have used
wood filler but only on a small piece.
Clean the cabinet door using the Krud Cutter prepaint cleaner and patch the screw holes using the FamoWood latex
wood filler.
Oh it's also sturdier than
wood filler, so it's harder to sand, which means we used even less than we should have over each nail / crack.
After
the wood filler and epoxy putty have had time to dry, use a sanding sponge (or electric sander) to sand the drawers smooth.
There were a couple spots from the knobs that I wanted to fill, so I used
wood filler on them.
After
the wood filler was dry and the excess sanded off, I then painted the entire dresser with the brown PPG Break - Through!
I started to repair it with
wood filler, but then seeing just how loose it was, decided to try peeling it off instead.
Hi Diann — If you are going to distress, you would want to use
wood filler since the area where you distress you will see the wood.
I thought of filling it with
wood filler and sanding...?
Or, did you use
wood filler to «fix» some damage or did you decide to go from a «handle» to just a knob in regards to hardware and — you filled in the holes on the drawer fronts?
I filled every single little hole with
wood filler and sanded once it was dry.
If it were wood, I would suggest trying
wood filler or even spackle, but Bondo would be better for metal.
I decided to use
wood filler on the large gouges in the picture above.
Lee Relvas, Looking, 2016,
wood filler, expo, polyurethane, 160x71x38cm.
Poplar, paste wax, plaster,
wood filler, pencil on oil on canvas, oil on string, oil on organza, primed brass, primedsteel, graphite, and felt - tip pen on muslin, hardware, and hair.
JESSICA STOCKHOLDER [JS 493] 2009 TV wall mounting bracket, plastic parts, black plastic with fake animal pattern, frame, metal scrap, yarn, spring, umbrella fabric, oil paint,
wood filler 62 by 17 1/2 by 15 in.
From just the picture I would even them out, fill the gaps with
wood filler and use a gel stain that is closest to matching.You can pound the staples in and just use
wood filler to cover the hammer marks if you use a darker gel stain.
I tried to repair wood steps with
wood filler once and it just crumbled away under the paint because it wouldnt stick to the step.
Tip: Your finger is a great tool for applying
wood filler to curved surfaces.
I swear by Wunderfil
wood filler!
As the sides were so badly damaged, I tried to fix the damage and used
some wood filler to fill the chipped area and once they were dry I sanded them slightly..
I'm pinning
the wood filler - I've not tried that one yet, and I am sure it will come in handy soon.
We used
wood filler to fill in the gaps between the boards, (once it was dry, we sanded) and then cut the trim to fit.
Fill holes with
wood filler and sand smooth.
Tip: Your finger is the best tool for applying
wood filler to curved surfaces.
A little
wood filler in some of the corners to smooth it out, and some paint...
I thought of filling it with
wood filler and sanding...?
The sides were damaged and ripped, so I used
some wood filler and sanded over to get a nice smooth finish.
Did you nail directly into the top of the plank (which you would need to fill the holes with spackle or
wood filler) or did you nail into the groove like you would for hardwood floors?
BTW, the old rack is going from forest green to a bronzy brown with previous «pecan» warped wood top to natural wood top with «peg holes» (read: turned over top, filled old screw holes with
wood filler, then used dark furniture crayon on top, and LOTS of polyurethane of course!)
You can buy the Durham's rock hard water putty at any hardware store and mix it yourself, or for better results I have used Zinsser's
wood filler (don't know the exact name) but found it at Home Depot.
I need a few boards for the deck (puppy chewed boards do not look good),
wood filler to fix the inside puppy chewed baseboards, kind of need new carpet for the kids» rooms, oh, and more Valspar paint to repaint the ugly, icky brown stained front door.
This is all I used: Valspar Chalky Finish paint in Boot Black Polycrylic by Minwax
wood filler and putty knife drawer knobs drill Purdy paint brushes (the smaller one is great for doing the sides!)
I would fill in the nail holes with
wood filler, sand those spots, and paint the molding the same color as the cabinet.
After all of
the wood filler has cured and hardened, sand all of your boards, to smooth out all the bumps and prepare the piece for color.
Fill all cracks, knots, and nail holes with
wood filler.
Once
the wood filler dried, I sanded it very well and then was able to paint it.
Did you know that Minwax makes pre-stained
wood filler?
I went on and painted one coat of chalk paint on the drawers and then used
the wood filler to fill the holes.
Now it's time to fill holes with
wood filler, caulk and paint!
I had to do a lot of sanding and use a lot of
wood filler and it still wasn't perfect, but that might be the look you are going for!
Fill any cracks or holes with flexible
wood filler, such as Wilko's Knot a Problem.
Countersink the nails, fill the holes with
wood filler (or spackle), and paint the color of your choice!
After
the wood filler and epoxy putty have had time to dry, use a sanding sponge (or electric sander) to sand the drawers smooth.
This wood filler changes color from purple to neutral when its dry and ready to be sanded!