Sentences with phrase «after running the engine»

Not exact matches

After the BFR (also called a first stage) runs out of fuel, the spaceship would separate from the rocket and fire its own engines.

SERP (Search Engine Ranking Page)-- The page that you are sent to after you run a query in a search eEngine Ranking Page)-- The page that you are sent to after you run a query in a search engineengine.

When you say god loves us, are you referring to cancer, AIDS, SIDS, babies getting run over by cars, priests molesting children, anyone molesting children, birds flying into a jet engine, the jet crashing after birds flew into its engine...?

BRM never really recaptured its place as a front - running team after the disaster of the P83 and its overly - complicated engine

If Sauber does continue with the plan to run Honda engines next year then running one of its drivers could be part of that deal, and although Matsushita doesn't yet have enough points for a superlicence, getting him to take part in the test could be the first sign that Sauber - Honda is going to be a thing after all.

He doesn't have the engine to run up and down covering yard after yard which is what you need from a box to box midfielder.

We also recommend performing after - run maintenance (run the engine until it is fully empty to prevent rust, remove the glow - plug and add two drops of after run oil, keep the wheels clean, and remember that the transmitter always gets turned on first and off last).

After fixing the molecular engine to the car's chassis and shining a light on it, Tour's team confirmed that the engine was running by using nuclear magnetic resonance to monitor the position of the hydrogen atoms within it.

Typing «divorce rates for firefighters» into a search engine brings up page after page of scary statistics that suggest the people who willingly run into burning buildings have unstable marriages.

It will also need to get right into the search engines and can reprint anywhere you go, reward after eight to ten different Therefore, a covered claim such as daytime running lights or anti-theft devices.

The OEM battery in my 2008 Jetta SE 2.5 L has been nearly fully discharged one month back (had insufficient surface charge after a prolonged use without the engine running, but leaving it idle for 20 minutes made the car start again), then worked fine for a few days afterwards (but without being subjected to much charge), but then was discharged again after only a quarter of the prior abuse (since it was probably not fully charged since the prior discharge, me underestimating the driving time it would take to bring the battery back to fuller life, plus possibly missing out on water, as I found out later).

If the engine wasn't ran after the coolant got into the sump, you could tell by draining the oil at the sump.

, but I drove hard enough that the engine ran hot for a half hour after I left, and that was enough to earn the sticker.

If you don't have power through this circuit, the engine will quit right after you allow the key to go back to the run position.

Even after those jolting take - offs the engine never seemed to run out of power.

The auxiliary one is used for after the car is turned off (I'm assuming it runs when the fans run to circulate the coolant when the engine has stopped running).

After 500 km run, I used motul 20/40 engine oil.

When it gets down to -15 F, it'll even do a thing where it starts to idle after start, then just shuts off and I have to restart it every time when the engine is cold (second start it'll stay running as long as I don't touch the brake until it gets some heat in it).

After replacing with a known good part, the engine runs much better and builds boost, but is still running a little rough.

Depending on how the water got into the crankcase, if the engine wasn't ran after the it entered the oil, it may or may not need to be torn down.

make sure pressure doesn't drop too quickly after you turn off the car and stays within spec while the engine is running at all rpms.

Martin Pfunder tells his story / Austin Seven Ulster Rebuild / Dr Fred's Penultimate Car — One day recently a full set of drawings of a lost design by Dr Frederick Lanchester turned up at The Automobile's office / Advance to the Rear — French Style — In Part Two of his account of France's involvement with rear engined cars Karl Ludvigsen traces the development of the Renault 4CV / Pennsylvania Precipitation — Michael Worthington - Williams gets wet at Hershey and faces up to the fact that enthusiasm for autojumbling is on the wane / The Car that Made Good in a Day — Brian Heath tries out a Stutz Bearcat / Instrument Repairer — Workshop / Keep the Red Flag Flying — The London to Brighton Veteran Car Run has survived in its traditional form after coming under threat.

The entire lubrication system for the engine fails, leading to scratching of the cylinders and the barrels, after which point they do nt run smoothly and degrade much faster.

This is usually in the morning too, like I would start it and after 2 seconds of running the engine just chokes.

Once in a while, the engine simply refuses to start after the car has been run for some time.

Oh ya I forgot its snowing and its 20 degrees out and ur lying on a rug and a tarp underneath a car turning bolts and nuts that have been weathered on for 20 years, So after you take the front clip off its time to take the engine apart in 20 degree weather, theres snot running down your nose and your feet are frozen and your hands are tight.

It did run well after the engine was warmed up?

After 10 Km the engine stopped while running, so I pulled over and checked the fuel.

I did notice a smoother running engine and more power after the first bottle of Techron though.

If the engine continues to run after blocking the intake, this is a clear indication that the engine is drawing air from an alternative source, i.e. a leak.

The symptoms of kinked fuel line will be stalling after the engine runs for a period of time and consumes fuel in the gas tank.

I've been told by a mechanic friend of mine that AFTER I've used engine flush I can put in vegetable oil, run engine for a short while then drain.

so after it shut down, I can prime it, and start the engine again, it runs for 10 minutes again, and sputters and dies.

After this, the engine runs perfectly until next time when it is cold and restarted.

They were probably guessing at the cause of the leak and working by elimination rather than shampooing the engine and running it (after the oil change) for 30 - 45 minutes to find the leak.

After warming the engine 1 minute, it runs and idles fine the rest of the day.

In these Engines you also here some time Tick Tick sound after running the bike for few kilometers / engine warms up.

Whereas the regular 599's engine feels like it's running out of breath after its 7600 - rpm power peak, the GTO doesn't.

Double - clutching will, if done properly, eliminate any additional wear of the synchronizers and if the engine is running at just the right speed before you engage the clutch after the downshift, the clutch will not have to drag the engine up to speed.

I know in turbo charged cars, you should keep the engine running after spirited driving for a few minutes so that cool oil can reach the turbo charger but what about normally aspirated cars, should I do the same so that cool oil circulates the engine block.

My check engine light is on, the car ran out of battery and after jumping it, it is running kind of poorly, idling rough, etc..

After about an hour of running, I find the engine starts to lose its power at say 3500RPM, and what I have to do is lower it to 2000RPM, if I try to increase the RPM back to 3000 - 3500RPM it starts to depower try to catch back at the required RPM then it loses power again.

After about an hour of running, I find the engine starts to lose its power at say 3500RPM, and what I have to do is lower it to 2000RPM, if I try to increase the RPM back to 3000 - 3500RPM it starts to...

My father bought a new car and in the owners manual it advises to keep the engine running for a little while after stopping, the car in question is a 2016 Skoda Rapid with no turbo on it.

Also Engine would stop working when I pressed on gas or spontaneously after few minutes of running on idle.

When I changed the water pump i drained the coolant, and according to my mechanic, I blew my radiator by not running the engine with the cap off after changing the coolant.

After adding the coolant I again ran the van, sitting in the driveway and revving the engine to about 3000 rpm for a few minutes.

After the engine is bolted in, it's baby steps to get the car running.

The thing that surprises me is the very low voltage signal, because the engine coolant temperature shows that the engine is quite warm (which it should be after 9 minutes of running at 4000 RPM), so regardless of the O2 heater malfunction that lambda sensor should be hot and triggering the ECU to run in closed loop (which it clearly isn't).

The engine control system may also need to re-learn some parameters, so the car may run a bit rough after disconnecting the battery.