Sentences with phrase «alternator when»

The electric motor acts as an alternator when coasting and braking.

155 amps (upgradeable to (kw7) 170 amp alternator when (v92) trailering package is ordered.)

Your vehicle's battery supplies and stores electrical energy from the alternator when the vehicle's engine is running.

If the reading was taken with the jumper cables on the battery, it would indicate that the battery is not getting charged by the alternator when the jumper cables are removed.

That signal output is usually pulled low by the alternator when the alternator is not charging.

It's not just condensation that might cause this; if it's the alternator belt, increased mechanical force required to turn the alternator when the battery is at ~ 13v (after sitting overnight) rather than ~ 14v (after recently running) will affect slippage.

The pump itself is just at the right side of the alternator when standing in front of the engine (It's been a while since I've seen one of those in the shop, so the location may be different).

Not exact matches

«When the alternator failed, it actually locked up and spun the belt off the engine.

When the alternator fails or malfunctions, the battery is sure to expire.

When the alternator fails or malfunctions, the battery is sure to expire.

Instructions said without wiring through switch the alternator will slowly discharge the battery when not running.

That car had a voltimeter and it never show low volts when driving, since the battery + alternator were supplying current, but not enough to run on alternator only, ie, the load was split between alternator and battery, draining the battery off too.

I went ahead and charged the battery, turned the engine on, and it ran but the voltage for the battery didn't go up to the 14v like it should when running, so now I suspect the alternator.

(I still shudder when I thing about getting my hand caught in an alternator cooling fan on a vehicle I was working on..

I discovered that my alternator was bad when my engine stopped after flashing the high beams, because the battery alone can't provide enough power for the lights and the spark plugs at once.

It's when the car is decelerating that the alternator reengages and recharges the battery.

When alternators or motors work harder they produce more heat.

The alternator seems to be working intermittently now, and when it does work it only creates about 12.50 volts.

My hunch is that the lurching (when idling it's almost like «revving» but not high rpm's, from normal to low, and back) means the battery is driving the spark plugs solely (no help from the alternator) and the battery is near depletion.

If they'd caught it when replacing the alternator, the cost would have been minimized because most of the labor involved would have already been covered (pulling / replacing the serpentine belt).

When should you swap the regulator versus swapping the entire alternator?

When you have the belts off for inspection and cleaning or replacement, make sure all the pulleys spin freely (air conditioning, idler, alternator and water pump) If one of those has excessive force that can be a concern.

According to Juechter, when the first LT5 engine mules were being developed, the engineers adorned the LT5's supercharger with BAS, or Belt Alternator System.

When it fails, it usually does so gradually, and the alternator failed light may not come on, or it might flicker on every now and then.

It will be ~ 12.5 V when the motor is off, up to 14.5 V while just started, and once the battery is topped off by the alternator the voltage will drop to around 12.5 - 13.0 V for warm running.

When it is a major job to extract the alternator for repair.

I replaced the bulbs because they were dim but the new ones were no better I've cleaned the oxidation off new batter new alternator, when I'm in front of a car i can see my cars shadow and the bulbs...

When a car is driven, the alternator charges the battery back up.

Most likely the wire on that terminal wasn't properly mounted when installing the new alternator.

Now the alternator doesn't move when the...

The choke is directly connected to the alternator, i.e. it only gets power when the motor is running.

If it wasn't this way, your vehicle would immediately die when the alternator dies.

When the engine is running, the voltage should track the alternator / voltage regulator output (which is also the battery charging voltage).

The SLS is also a very mild hybrid, in that the alternator produces an output only when the SLS is slowing or braking.

SO when you are in low speed running all those electrical you are straining the Alternator and making it to rob the engine of additional HP thus ultimately reducing fuel economy, once you reach considerable amount of speed then the effect is reduced.

Introductions to each year detail the nitty - gritty — when the 911SC received a new alternator, for example — and are nicely complemented by thorough spec panels.

This battery is charged by the alternator but we rarely use this vehicle unless we are on a camping trip so it remains inactive for long periods of time, during which I loose the charge on the battery because of the draw from the radio even when the radio is off.

I think it might be the alternator or the starter that causes this problem but when I asked on a few forums some guy told me it probably was the distributor and now I'm very confused and not really sure what I can and should do.

The problem is that the output from the alternator varies dramatically - when the engine is running at high revs the voltage will be higher than at idle, for example.

If the alternator fails before I can «find» a battery then I deal with that when it comes.

In addition to the excellent suggestions to check for drains when the car is «off» and also that the alternator is producing the correct voltage when running I think this stands out:

5 series BMWs from March 2007 incorporate AGM batteries in conjunction with devices for recovering brake energy using regenerative braking and computer control to ensure the alternator charges the battery when the car is decelerating.

A weak or dying alternator, on the other hand, will produce weird electrical things: slower wipers, dimmer lights, or my favourite, dimming dashlights when the turn signal or rear defogger are turned on.

It utilizes a Lithium - ion battery and belt alternator starter that allows the A6 to coast with the gas engine shut off when traveling between 34 and 99 mph.

All models also have Auto Start / Stop, which shuts off the engine when waiting at stoplights — starting quickly when the brake is released; and Brake Energy Regeneration essentially saves fuel by using the alternator smartly.

AGM technology better handles not only discharges and recharges from regenerative braking but also operation of the electrical system when the alternator is not generating electricity.

Many times when the alternator begins to fail other electronic malfunctions will begin to occur.

An impact sensor automatically disconnects the alternator, fuel pump and starter from the battery when it detects a collision event, which can greatly reduce the possibility of an explosion or fire.

The lithium - ion battery provides the necessary electrical power for the belt - alternator starter, and the battery itself is recharged by the concept car's regenerative braking function: when decelerating, the fuel is shut off and the vehicle's kinetic energy is transformed into electrical energy.

The engines are beefed up with 240 - amp alternators — the higher output helps keep the F - 150's electrical system topped off when it's idling for long periods.