We learnt to make fresh pasta in the Vecchia Scuola Bolognese run by famous chef Alessandra Spisni (who was quick to point out that Bolognese is traditionally made with tagliatelle and most definitely not spaghetti), and we explored Bologna's ancient subterranean canals in a rubber dinghy and later joined the locals in gorging ourselves on
aperitivo, where a little extra on your drinks bill gets you an unlimited snack
buffet too.