Generally speaking, the operation of the AC system should not create a coolant leak to occur,
as coolant does not flow through the AC unit in any capacity.
Not exact matches
In addition, without water
as a
coolant, they
do not produce explosive hydrogen gas when they overheat.
It is also more cost effective and reduces energy consumption
as the system
does not require huge pumps to generate the flow of the
coolant.
«What it
does is it takes different sorts of fuel materials such
as plutonium or used nuclear fuel, it casts that into a metallic fuel, it puts it in a reactor that has liquid sodium
as a
coolant — and if you have liquid sodium
as a
coolant then the energies of the neutrons are higher so you can use a different fuel source.
You
do always want to keep some
coolant in your system
as it helps with corrosion and lubrication.
I think the «purple» description is a bit of a mater of color perception... With existing
coolant all you can
do is to test it, among other things UV leak detection dye will completely throw the color off and I think it may change with age
as well.
Sometimes catastrophic head failures don't contaminate the oil (which
does indeed produce a frothy substance
as you describe); the head could be cracked from the outside into a
coolant passage, or, rarely and usually only in poorly manufactured or improperly installed gaskets, the head gasket can blow outward from a
coolant passage.
I'm a tech for Vw and I
do really like working on them but their are days were things go wrong just last week I had a tdi passat in losing
coolant pressure tested system no external leak found tpi regarding cylinder head issue removed inlet manifold and pressure tested no luck I assumed it was the egr cooler
as I eliminated dsg cooler and oil cooler.
As long as you can still see something in the coolant reservoir, you probably didn't cause any permanent damag
As long
as you can still see something in the coolant reservoir, you probably didn't cause any permanent damag
as you can still see something in the
coolant reservoir, you probably didn't cause any permanent damage.
You're changing the water pump, so that's a good opportunity to
do a
coolant flush
as well.
After a year I had to check again condition of
coolant and it
did not have any rust deposits and was «just
as liquid»
as a new 50:50
coolant - water mixture.
EDIT:
As for the low
coolant, if possible, you should inspect the
coolant hoses and water pump for leaks, or have a mechanic
do the same.
You
do want to check the ratio of
coolant and water
as straight
coolant (or too much compared to water) will not cool
as well.
We
do not run water
as coolant in road vehicles due to the corrosion problems it can cause to the internal water passageways of the engine, and also due to issues with expansion, if the water were to freeze it can crack the engine block itself.
As long as you don't mix the two coolants together you should not have any proble
As long
as you don't mix the two coolants together you should not have any proble
as you don't mix the two
coolants together you should not have any problem.
I'm concerned they didn't source a new oil pump - without it, parts of the engine or
coolant system may overheat and this could lead to leaks such
as the ones you have seen.
I think another reason I didn't notice the leak
as much right when it started is it looks like the way it is damaged lets
coolant into the tank, but sucks outside air back into the radiator, so a lot of the
coolant was initially just getting lost from the radiator into the tank and replaced with air.
Anecdotal evidence: Once upon a time I overheated an engine in the dead of winter after a cracked lower radiator hose lead to all my
coolant leaking out — I wasn't aware it was compromised and didn't realize it was leaking out
as I was driving.
As few
do - it - yourselfers have a
coolant strength tester, its best left up to a service provider.
Also
doing their bit to seal the exceptionally fine balance between driving pleasure and fuel consumption for this output class are a
coolant pump that operates only
as necessary, a map - controlled oil pump, Electric Power Steering, the Auto Start Stop function, Brake Energy Regeneration and various other solutions developed under the banner of BMW EfficientDynamics.
Get a quote for a service: If you're not quite comfortable diagnosing and changing your own
coolant temperature sensor, a professional mechanic, such
as from YourMechanic, will be happy to
do it for you at your home or office.
To
do this, the IS F has an oil cooler that uses the engine
coolant as a major means of cooling the lubricant and preventing oil deterioration.
As a matter of fact, the only thing that's been
done in that 40K is routine maintenance (oil changes and a change of
coolant).
The adiabatic theory would hold that CO2 actually acts
as a
coolant to the atmosphere, by trapping heat and carrying up to TOA to be released,... just
as the other well known GHG, water vapor,
does.
We
do not know enough to determine under what circumstance CO2 is a forcing or a feedback relative to temperature sometimes it maybe both sometimes over large areas it may even be a
coolant e.g. if you think it is the main driver (which I don't) you would have to say it acted
as a
coolant for several thousand years from the Holocene climate optimum to the LIA — see Fig 6 in the last post at http://climatesense-norpag.blogspot.com I quoted the end Permian Siberian traps
as a possible example of CO2
as a forcing but even here CO2 was rising rapidly before the volcanic event.
In many vehicles, gasoline doesn't just serve
as fuel — it's also lubricant and
coolant for the engine.