Sentences with phrase «average wave height»

Wave energy should go as wave height squared, so a modest increase in average wave height (if it really checks out) might bea bit greater than that, but it will still be orders of magnitude lower than the thermal energy change.
As it shows in our latest photo gallery average wave height was in the chest to head high class with the sets pushing well over head.
The beach is known for its soft tide and average wave height and that's why it's a great place for newbies to try white - water surfing, or surfing the waves after they break, and gently roll toward the shore.
We both want to learn how to surf at Poipu Beach and are wondering what the average wave height is during mid-July.
Average wave heights in this area range between 5 to 10 feet from March to November.
On the East Coast, a yet - to - be-published study also has showed that average wave heights have been increasing, by a couple of centimeters or so a year.
«average wave heights rose by more than 25 percent between the 1960s and the 1990s, and insurance records document a 10 percent surge in maritime disasters in recent years.»

Not exact matches

That measurement included only the height above the average level of the sea and did not consider the depth of the wave trough.
Things can be rough on the open ocean — and they appear to be getting rougher, with increased average air speed, wave height, and frequency of strong winds and large waves over the past two decades.
Wave height represents the average size of the waves you may expect to see at the beach.
The surf at Bahia Ballena is consistent, meaning you will typically find soft breaking waves which average about two to four feet in height (chest to head - high) and can offer ride lengths of up to 100 yards, pretty much any day of the year.
Anyone who is active in tsunami hazards would had known that far smaller earthquakes than the one that struck Japan generate waves producing inland flooding of up to six meters height about once every two years, on average, somewhere in the world.
«The averages aren't very exciting,» said Peter Adams, an assistant professor in the University of Florida's Department of Geological Sciences who used wind data from the past 20 to 30 years to develop a wave height model.
Since the mid-1970s, buoy data shows the height of the biggest waves off the Northwest coast has increased an average of about four inches a year, or about 10 feet total, according to Peter Ruggiero, an assistant geosciences professor at Oregon State University and the lead author of a study published recently in the journal Coastal Engineering.
During the winter storms of 2013 - 2014, extreme wave conditions were five times more frequent than normal, and wave heights were 40 % higher than average.
The corresponding working quasilinear wave equation for the barotropic azonal stream function Ψm ′ of the forced waves with m = 6, 7, and 8 (m waves) with nonzero right - hand side (forcing + eddy friction) yields (34) u˜ ∂ ∂ x (∂ 2Ψm ′ ∂ x2 + ∂ 2Ψm ′ ∂ y2) + β˜ ∂ Ψm ′ ∂ x = 2Ω sin ϕ cos2 ϕT˜u˜ ∂ Tm ′ ∂ x − 2Ω sin ϕcos2 ϕHκu˜ ∂ hor, m ∂ x − (kha2 + kzH2)(∂ 2Ψm ′ ∂ x2 + ∂ 2Ψm ′ ∂ y2), [S3] where x = aλ and y = a ln -LSB-(1 + sin ϕ) / cos ϕ] are the coordinates of the Mercator projection of Earth's sphere, with λ as the longitude, H is the characteristic value of the atmospheric density vertical scale, T˜ is a constant reference temperature at the EBL, Tm ′ is the m component of azonal temperature at this level, u˜ = u ¯ / cos ϕ, κ is the ratio of the zonally averaged module of the geostrophic wind at the top of the PBL to that at the EBL (53), hor, m is the m component of the large - scale orography height, and kh and kz are the horizontal and vertical eddy diffusion coefficients.
Average winter wave heights along the Atlantic coast of Western Europe have been rising for almost seven decades, according to new research.
That has also led to increased wave heights during extreme weather conditions, with levels off the Irish coast increasing 25 millimeters (1 inch) per year during the past 70 years, representing an average increase of 1.7 meters (5.6 feet).
The coastlines of Scotland and Ireland have seen the largest increases, with the average height of winter waves more than 10 millimeters (more than 0.4 inches) per year higher than in 1948.
Postma is absolutely correct in stating that the long wave radiation produced by the Earth system is released at an average height.
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