Sentences with phrase «biting at his leash»

If you can't stop your puppy biting at the leash for more than a few seconds, it's okay to pick him up and head home after half a dozen stops.

If you're walking your pup and he decides to start biting at his leash, tugging and chewing on it... stop walking.

Puppies also love to bite at their leash, often turning what you planned on being a nice walk into a long game of tug - of - war.

They approved, and not surprisingly, Patty left walking around the shelter jumping, biting at her leash.

It's often worthy to see in which exact context your dog starts biting at the leash.

Not exact matches

Jordan is straining at his leash, yapping at a mastiff that could consume the Russos» fluffy little dog in two bites.

Threatening behavior — some examples: • Bending over a dog, or rousing him from his sleep • Reaching to touch a dog's head (when he doesn't want to be touched) • Staring into a dog's eyes (worse, at eye level, like toddlers do) • Trying to touch or remove a bone, a toy, a bowl of food or anything the dog wants • Screaming near the dog's face or producing other startling noises in his proximity • Running toward, past, or away from a dog • Walking too close to a dog on leash • Entering a protective dog's territory • Being afraid in the presence of a dog • Sticking a hand or finger (especially children) inside a dog's enclosure • Making threatening gestures, like raising a fist or wielding a stick • Causing pain, injury, or subjugation to a dog • Overexcitement during play can cause a friendly dog to nip or bite as he would a playmate.

Instead of concrete runs attached to pens that allow dogs a bit of the outdoors, dogs at Tails & Whiskers are leash - walked inside a fenced yard.

Mark all that might apply: Excessive barking Biting Digging Moving Shedding Divorce Illness Allergies Poor watchdog Destructive chewing Excessive vet bills Financial problems Accidents indoors New spouse or partner doesn't like pet Aggressive on leash New family addition Growling at guests / family members Other None of the above

Vocabulary Elimination Training Teaching Contented Kennel Confinement Teaching Positive Chewing Puppy Play Biting Rewards and Corrections Leadership Through Learn to Earn - SAMPLE Leadership Exercises Using Food as a Training Tool Puppy Proofing the Home Early Socialization Socialization Check List Socialization Classes Teaching «Sit» Teaching «Stay» Teaching «Come» Teaching «Easy» Teaching «Let's Go» Teaching «Off» Pass the Puppy Party Suspension Gentling Exercises Advanced Gentling Child Safety Children Introduced to Dogs Children Relating to Dogs House Rules Household Manners Close Tether Training Rawhide Chews Toys Leashes and Collars Head Collars Leash Walking Preventing Separation Anxiety Preventing Aggression Toward Family Members Preventing Household Destruction Preventing Jumping on People Preventing Destructive Play Preventing Food Bowl Aggression Preventing Excessive Barking Preventing Excessive Whining Preventing Excessive Licking of People Preventing Excessive Urine Marking Preventing Aggressive Play Traveling and Waiting in the Car Jogging With Dogs Waiting at Curbs Spaying and Neutering Identification Food and Water Nutrition and Behavior Bathing Gentle Grooming Nail Trimming Nail Trim First Aide Teeth Brushing Teething

She also is a bit of a puller on the leash, but she is getting better at this as well.

Or the famous take a picture of the dog at the end of the leash looking like he is about to bite someone.

a.) a considerable amount of exercise, including the use of treadmills and backpacks, as a way of relaxing dogs to prepare them for counter-conditioning exercises; b.) packs of dogs to rehabilitate unstable, fearful or aggressive dogs; c.) Leashes and chain collars to block jumping, whining, possessiveness, biting, aggressiveness, excessive barking, mounting, fighting, active dominance challenges; d.) Redirection to get dogs doing alternative behaviors in play areas, obstacle courses, a pool, a feeding area, a sleeping area, and an eating / drinking area; e.) calming techniques using hand feeding; f.) a limited amount of obedience training, such as teaching the dogs to heel on a loose lead at the handler's side; g.) a «claw» technique, his own version of the «alpha rollover», and a pursuit technique to deal with dogs that don't show submission to other dogs or people; h.) «flooding» for phobias; i.) «calm / assertive» handler techniques; j.) touch and sound techniques to interrupt, correct and / or redirect behaviors; k.) a variety of traditional manners rules, which are implemented with the «no free lunch» type of approach; l.) a variety of games and other «mental challenges»; m.) human intervention; and n.) electric collars (not mentioned, as I recall, in the book)

Imagine a world where... your dog comes when called every time, on or off leash, walks politely when on leash, sits and downs when asked, is socialized with dogs and other family pets, is housebroken, doesn't jump on people, dig in the yard, bark incessantly, bite or growl at people, lunge at other dogs, and doesn't guard food and toys.

a.) a considerable amount of exercise, including the use of treadmills and backpacks, as a way of relaxing dogs to prepare them for counter-conditioning exercises b.) packs of dogs to rehabilitate unstable, fearful or aggressive dogs; c.) Leashes and chain collars to block jumping, whining, possessiveness, biting, aggressiveness, excessive barking, mounting, fighting, active dominance challenges; d.) Redirection to get dogs doing alternative behaviors in play areas, obstacle courses, a pool, a feeding area, a sleeping area, and an eating / drinking area; e.) calming techniques using hand feeding; f.) a limited amount of obedience training, such as teaching the dogs to heel on a loose lead at the handler's side; g.) a «claw» technique, his own version of the «alpha rollover», and a pursuit technique to deal with dogs that don't show submission to other dogs or people; h.) «flooding» for phobias; i.) «calm / assertive» handler techniques; j.) touch and sound techniques to interrupt, correct and / or redirect behaviors; k.) a variety of traditional manners rules, which are implemented with the «no free lunch» type of approach; l.) a variety of games and other «mental challenges»; m.) human intervention; and n.) electric collars (usually not mentioned in their marketing materials or websites)

Taking a look at the modus operandi (your dog's way or method of biting the leash) may also be insightful.

Real dogs not only must be housetrained - most owners are aware of that need; they also must be taught not to chew the furniture, taught not to jump on their owners, taught not to play - bite, taught not to bowl over the toddler, taught not to dig holes in the yard, taught to come when they are called, taught not to eat the homework or the woodwork, taught not to swipe food off the table, taught not to growl at strangers or bark at the mail carrier, taught to walk on a leash without dragging their owner down the block, taught to allow their toenails to be cut and their coats to be groomed without biting the groomer, taught not to shred feather pillows and down comforters, taught not to steal the baby's toys, taught not to growl at their owner's mother - in - law, taught to sit, stay, and to lay down when and where the owner tells them to, and to wait there until the owner says they may get up (absolutely essential commands for the dog's own safety), taught not to escape out the front door or out of the yard or out of the car when the owner looks away for just a second... all of these things and many more are not «natural» canine behaviors; they must be taught by owners who are willing to spend the time and the effort doing so.

But, many dogs will run away, or bite at you, when you attempt to put a leash on them.

In my experience, these types of leashes a.) tend to cause dogs to act more aggressively and to pull hard on the leash; b.) are more likely to trigger a fight with another dog since the dog that is straining at the end of the leash looks like it is in attack mode; c.) tend to be purchased by lazy and irresponsible dog owners who do not train their dogs to obey, and who tend to spoil their dogs, causing more aggression and bratty behavior; d.) undo most of the important aspects of your obedience training and leadership over your dog, especially obeying around distractions and coming when called, and over time they teach your dog to charge after other dogs, animals and even people; e.) are hard to control once the dog is at the end of the line, and can get caught in the leashes of other dogs, increasing the potential for a biting or attack incident; f.) do NOT cause the dog to get more exercise on the walk; g.) can cause a dog to run away from you, because if you accidentally drop the leash handle, many dogs will run from the plastic handle «chasing» them from behind and that could cause your dog to run into traffic and die; h.) have resulted in injuries to dogs and owners.

Like if you are walking at the park, could it be you are holding the leash a bit tighter than usual?

For instance, if you are in Louisiana and bitten by a dog that was not on leash, your case gets a huge push as Louisiana laws state that dogs must be on leash at all times.

Whether it is barking at other dogs or people on leash, biting guests to your home, chewing up the carpet, or just jumping up when you would rather they didn't, an individual behavior consultation will give you the one - on - one assistance that you need.

So, you are saying, «When IS the time for meaningful training to begin for the dog who jumps on guests, chases the cat, jumps up on counters, pulls on the leash incessantly, barks obnoxiously at passerby, chews my belongings, or tries to bite me when you walk past him while he is eating?»

If he jumps up on counters, pulls on the leash incessantly, barks obnoxiously at passerby, chews your belongings, or tries to bite you when you walk past him while he is eating, your responses during those situations do not constitute meaningful training.

Puppies are going to poop a lot and pee even more; chew on everything; bite everyone; scratch people and furniture; steal things; destroy something at some point; pull on the leash; not move at all on the leash; bark; cry; beg for attention; and the list goes on.

Animal Bites Animal Licensing Barking Dog / Rooster Dead Animal Pickup Leash Law Loose Dogs / Animals Shelter Donations Spaying and Neutering Volunteer at the Animal Shelter

Whatever weight leash you do select, it should be long enough to allow your cat to wander a bit — after all, your kitty will still be the same independent spirit outdoors as she is at home.

Specifically you need to know how to teach your puppy: where to eliminate, what to chew, when to bark, where to dig, to sit when greeting people, to walk calmly on - leash, to settle down and shush when requested, to inhibit biting behavior, to enjoy spending time at home alone, and to thoroughly enjoy the company of other dogs and people — especially strangers and children.

I walk Haley off leash quite a bit but I always leash her at first site of another person or dog.

We got a new puppy about a month ago it's a pug mix she is now 3 months old my older jack russel who is 7 snarled and snapped at her a couple days in now a month later he avoids her for the most part only curious to sniff her back end if she is on leash off leash he will growl a bit and run off my other dog a female 4 year old pug loves the baby and is doing great with her at this point we are just taking it slow with the older male letting him take his time and hoping like with the other dog he will come around as the baby gets bigger

We have kept both dogs leashed at all times when they are near each other because my chihuahua snapped at the GSD pup and almost bit him on the nose.

She is a bit shy at first, but is learning to be sociable, she is also working on leash training and house training.

They let your dog run around a bit at a distance while still being attached to you, without the leash getting tangled.

It may seem a bit of a stretch at first blush, but trends in dog collars, leashes and harnesses are oddly similar to those in the women's shoes category.

On - leash biting on - leash came in at 3.3 %.

Graphically, it shows that the dog wanders around quite a bit at the end of his leash, to the left and the right, on our graph — up and down, while the owner is walking a straight line, generally going to the right and up across the graph at a specific angle.

You should be aware that an Arizona statute makes the owner or another responsible person (sitter, walker, etc.) automatically liable to a bite victim for injuries and property damage that occur when the dog is «at large,» that is neither confined nor restrained by a leash.