Tip: I usually push a 3/8» clear vinyl tube over
the bleeder screw so that I can better oberve the color of the fluid and see bubbles in the tubing as I bleed the brake line.
After the 3rd time, I managed to open the Brake
Bleeder Screw.
There are many videos on YouTube that suggest the use of torch and apply excess heat to the caliper area around
the bleeder screw.
After a test drive and you suspect wheel drag, open the caliper
bleeder screw on the wheel that is dragging, if fluid squirts out (back pressure), then you have a blockage upstream from the caliper, if no fluid back pressure is present then suspect a bad caliper.
There doesn't seem to be
a bleeder screw on this engine, so we ran the engine until it reached operating temperature.
Find all
the bleeder screws, squeeze the upper rad hose a bunch of times, etc..
There are power bleeders to make it easier, but flushing the fluid is normally a process of letting it leak out
the bleeder screws at each wheel and adding new fluid before the reservoir is empty.
Use
the bleeder screws (open them slightly) and squish the hoses.
• Each brake caliper from us feature OE quality seals, boots, and
bleeder screws.
I jacked up the car and opened the brake caliper
bleeder screws and the brakes acted normally again.
Not exact matches
I ended up modifying some
bleeders by cutting the tip off so I could
screw it all the way down to ensure no air would get past the threads.
I took an extra set of
bleeders and cut the tip off, so I could
screw it in all the way to avoid leaking around the threads.