I jacked up the car and opened the brake
caliper bleeder screws and the brakes acted normally again.
After a test drive and you suspect wheel drag, open
the caliper bleeder screw on the wheel that is dragging, if fluid squirts out (back pressure), then you have a blockage upstream from the caliper, if no fluid back pressure is present then suspect a bad caliper.
Not exact matches
I went to change the brake fluid in my 2000 Toyota Camry and when I tried to unscrew the
bleeder nipple on a front
caliper it broke in half rather than unscrewed.
Also, I could not get the rear
bleeder bolts loose and did not want to twist them off, thus I bled the rear brakes at the brake hose going into the
caliper... Is this acceptable?
There are many videos on YouTube that suggest the use of torch and apply excess heat to the
caliper area around the
bleeder screw.
My ultimate diagnostic test in determining that it had to be a faulty
caliper was this: Once I drove the truck around and got the brake nice and tight, I jacked it up, pulled the wheel off, and opened the
bleeder valve.
So I did the
bleeder test and even pulled the
caliper back and forth with the rotor loose and it never released (but the new slide pins allowed the
caliper to move beautifully).
• Each brake
caliper from us feature OE quality seals, boots, and
bleeder screws.