That said, there is a certain flamboyance to the menu with dishes such as guinea fowl ballantine and pine nut milanese with fennel and parsley sauce offered as a prelude to the likes of duck breast with rhubarb, kale and sweet potato fondant with a soy and ginger jus.
His fire and flamboyance are magnificently captured by Sean Penn, who plays gay perfectly, calibrating certain nellie gestures so that they never devolve into mincing - queen stereotypes.