You could get under the car and
change the brake pads, rotors, and such... but it's a pretty complicated job if you haven't done it before.
It can be dangerous to wait to long to
change your brake pads.
Once you have diagnosed what needs to be changed on the disc brakes, all you need is 60 minutes of your time to
change the brake pads and the rotor completely on your disc brake.
You'll need to
change your brake pads frequently and carefully inspect them regularly.
«I had a good two - and - a-half stints with a caution in the middle, which we used to
change the brake pads.
No, what you need to do is check for the worn rotor warning signs after
you change your brake pads.
The fix is relatively easy - if you can
change the brake pads, you can change the...
The key is to proactively
change your brake pads before disaster happens — both on the road and in our lives.
In the afternoon Parrish and I made our way over to my parent's house where I got to spend quality time with my Mom while my Dad and P
changed his brake pads.
While
changing the brake pads on my 2003 Subaru Forester, I found two balls of what appeared to be rust mixed with either oil or grease in the metal «cup» of one brake caliper piston (picture below).
I have had my mazda for 6 years It is a 2004 V6 Mazda 6 wagon And I have only
changed the brake pads.
So while I was
changing brake pads on my 2003 Outback automatic (H6 3.0, if it makes any difference), I reattached the rear driver's wheel (the car is RHD, so the driver's side is the air intake / fuel...
(Expensive lesson on
changing brake pads, at the latest when the begin squealing)
I had the same problem after
changing the brake pads.
When
changing the brake pads I lubricated the guide bolts.
As an added precaution, Lexus over-inflated the tyres and
changed brake pads mid-way through the day.
Being a 17 - 19 year old female during my time owning the car, I was able to teach myself how to do simple repairs such as
changing the brake pads and changing my oil, to replacing the control arms, radiator, water pump, drive belt, instrument cluster, etc..
Not exact matches
But my Spectra, which is still purring like a kitten after over 100,000 miles with darn near nothing more than oil
changes, tires, and
brake pads is a helluva lot better than the burn - out - after - five - years cars that automakers made for decades.
With this report, I went to another mechanic to
change the rear
brake pads, it turned out the second one (more reliable to me) said there was nothing wrong with the
brakes, the front
brakes are almost new and rear
brakes have 50 % lifespan.
I ordered new
brake pads, but I don't know if I should
change the discs as well.
The oil
change was performed along with other work (replacing alternator &
brake pads).
The Cobra's
brakes are carried over pretty much intact from the 2001 model; only the rear
pad material has
changed.
I recently took my wife's vehicle to a popular repair shop chain to have her
brake rotors and
pads changed out.
Yesterday I went in for an oil
change and during that service it was discovered that I needed
brake pads and front rotors.
So I bought 2 new rotors and 4 new
brake pads, took it over to my uncle's house, and had him teach me how to
change the rotors.
There was a period then where I couldn't afford to get the
brake pads changed in time, so I drove around with a pretty much metal
brake.
I was grinding metal on metal so I
changed the rotors and put new
brake pads on but still when I drive it for a little ways you can see black powder on the rims from the
brakes.
I had the rotors on the front two tires and all 4
brake pads changed then.
I
changed 1 rotor and 3
brake pads myself.
I just
changed the front rotors and
brake pads.
Mileage 18,504 Warranty 4 - yr / 50, 000 - mi bumper - to - bumper 12 - yr rust perforation 4 - yr roadside assistance Scheduled Maintenance 10,967 mi: Oil
change, oil filter replaced, $ 0 Warranty Repairs 16,996 mi: Replace
brake pad wear sensor that incorrectly reported worn front
pads Recalls 10,967 mi: Replace non-self-locking spare tire nut with secure nut 16,612 mi: Replace incorrect label for maximum capacity weight with updated one Out - Of - Pocket 10,967 mi: Purchase, mount, and balance Bridgestone Blizzak LM60 run - flat winter tires, $ 952.64 11,474 mi: WeatherTech DigitalFit FloorLiner mats, front and rear, $ 169.90 16,612 mi: Reinstall Pirelli Centurato P7 all - season tires, $ 180 Fuel Consumption: EPA city / highway / combined: 29/40/33 mpg Observed: 33 mpg Cost Per Mile (Fuel, service, winter tires) $ 0.18 ($ 0.81 including depreciation) Trade - In Value $ 17,300 * * Estimate based on information from Intellichoice
I
changed the rotors,
pads, fluid, bled them and seated the
pads as per manufacturers instructions and the
brakes were still spongy.
Brake pads wear out much quicker than any gear box will, and the number of
brake pad and rotor
changes will probably add up to one gear box (over the life of that gear box.)
I've
changed mine along with the
brake pads and now there's no vibration at all.
What
Changed: New Caliper, Caliper Bracket, Rotor, and Brake -
Pads on the rear - passenger - side wheel, bled the
brakes at that wheel as well.
We had also by this time used up the
brake pads (all four), which necessitated
changing the rotors as well.
Also,
changing disc
brake pads and rotors is a pretty simple job requiring very few tools, if you have any inclination to DIY.
Gearheads may think nothing of
changing the oil or
brake pads with own hands, but others — especially those in the premium luxury segment — aren't necessarily as willing to get greasy in the process.
What
Changed: Removed one of the «shims» (little thin metal - piece) from inside the caliper bracket (above / between the
brake -
pads).
The maintenance program will cover oil
changes, tire rotations, vehicle inspections, engine belts, hoses, and select wear items, including wiper blades,
brake pads, and
brake rotors.
I was grinding metal on metal so I
changed the rotors and put new
brake pads on but still when I drive it for a little ways you can see black powder on the rims from...
I would take it back to wherever you had the
brake pads changed and complain.
If the
brakes were hot and then you got to a light and held the pedal down (which would hold the hot
pads in contact with the hot rotors), it is possible that
pad resin was transferred onto the rotor, which would cause the noise and require a
pad and rotor
change to fix.
At BMW, a
brake change meant new
pads, new sensor, and a rotor check.
Brake dust will always be a problem with your current
pads.When it is due for a
brake job check out several brands as some offer low dust versions.If you are really concerned
change the
pads now even if they are still good.The big issue with
brake dust is it is an abrasive.Use something made to wash wheels.It will suspend the grit in a liquid so it can be hosed off.Then apply a polish for wheels.JC whitney at one time offered a
brake shield that mounted between the rotor and the wheel to keep the dust off the wheel.They were not very pretty but they did work.
When you do a
brake pad change, you can check the rotor for any visible damage then.
The
brake pads and fluid have been
changed, but the discs and calipers are standard.
When using some higher quality
brake pads, they will tell you if you are
changing from one
pad compound to another (either
changing brands or product lines) to use new or re-surfaced rotors.
Put 50K on it and only
changed tires and
brake pads.
Fall can be the perfect time to have your
brake pads changed, your air filters replaced, and your windshield...