I was grinding metal on metal so
I changed the rotors and put new brake pads on but still when I drive it for a little ways you can see black powder on the rims from...
I changed the rotors, pads, fluid, bled them and seated the pads as per manufacturers instructions and the brakes were still spongy.
I was grinding metal on metal so
I changed the rotors and put new brake pads on but still when I drive it for a little ways you can see black powder on the rims from the brakes.
So I bought 2 new rotors and 4 new brake pads, took it over to my uncle's house, and had him teach me how to
change the rotors.
Worst case,
changing rotors is literally one of the easiest tasks to do on a car, it's definitely one of the simplest.
We had also by this time used up the brake pads (all four), which necessitated
changing the rotors as well.
Not exact matches
One focused on closing the isolation valves of the Natanz uranium enrichment facility and the other aimed to
change the speeds of the
rotors in the centrifuges.
The
changing magnetic field ensures that the
rotor will never come to rest, and its strength — thousands of times more powerful than a typical refrigerator magnet — provides the necessary push to keep the train moving.
Brakes always need to be bled after
changing rear plate and
rotor.
I have
changed the battery, fuel pump, fuel relay (the one that mounts near the hood latch), spark plugs, ignition coil, distributor cap and
rotor button, and the electronic portion of the ignition switch.
I recently took my wife's vehicle to a popular repair shop chain to have her brake
rotors and pads
changed out.
Yesterday I went in for an oil
change and during that service it was discovered that I needed brake pads and front
rotors.
I was doing basic fluid
changes, spark plugs, cap
rotor and wires at age 16.
Its 120 - hp twin -
rotor engine got it to 60 mph in less than 10 seconds on to a top speed of 120 mph, which meant it could keep up with cars like the BMW 2002 — a real
change from the underpowered piston - engine cars the company previously offered in the US.
Not really sure whether or not the calipers / pads /
rotors were really in bad enough shape that they needed
changing.
I think you should have your
rotors turned when
changing break pads its cheap and you will feel better knowing everything is in good shape so why not.
I had the
rotors on the front two tires and all 4 brake pads
changed then.
I
changed 1
rotor and 3 brake pads myself.
I just
changed the front
rotors and brake pads.
Some people will just replace the
rotors whenever they
change the pads because on some cars they are so cheap it's not worth the time or hassle to take them and have them turned.
Brake pads wear out much quicker than any gear box will, and the number of brake pad and
rotor changes will probably add up to one gear box (over the life of that gear box.)
What
Changed: New Caliper, Caliper Bracket,
Rotor, and Brake - Pads on the rear - passenger - side wheel, bled the brakes at that wheel as well.
Also,
changing disc brake pads and
rotors is a pretty simple job requiring very few tools, if you have any inclination to DIY.
The brakes also felt better on this model, but that likely has more to do with the mileage that was on our Four Seasons car, as the
rotor measurements have not
changed.
The pad tends to wear the
rotor evenly, and may even increase the warp over time, because the pad pressure
changes along the surface, and the «high» spots will get even more heat.
Eventually, I found out that the
rotors don't need to be
changed - just resurfaced.
The maintenance program will cover oil
changes, tire rotations, vehicle inspections, engine belts, hoses, and select wear items, including wiper blades, brake pads, and brake
rotors.
Disrespect for the very people that keep them in business leads people like me to say a paycheck, buy a jack and
change the oil and do brakes /
rotors myself.
This would be your
rotors needing replacement, try braking hard from 50 km / h but not to the extent of hearing the tires squeal or reaching a complete stop, if you feel some vibration in the driving wheel then the
rotors are pretty bad, if not, try the same thing from 100 km / h; if you feel vibration, the damage is somehow less but still needs
changing.
If the brakes were hot and then you got to a light and held the pedal down (which would hold the hot pads in contact with the hot
rotors), it is possible that pad resin was transferred onto the
rotor, which would cause the noise and require a pad and
rotor change to fix.
It is also possible that the pads or
rotor have simply become contaminated during the wheel / tire
change.
He was of the mind set that under most circumstances it's unnecessary to have the
rotors resurfaced when
changing brakes.
At BMW, a brake
change meant new pads, new sensor, and a
rotor check.
Brake dust will always be a problem with your current pads.When it is due for a brake job check out several brands as some offer low dust versions.If you are really concerned
change the pads now even if they are still good.The big issue with brake dust is it is an abrasive.Use something made to wash wheels.It will suspend the grit in a liquid so it can be hosed off.Then apply a polish for wheels.JC whitney at one time offered a brake shield that mounted between the
rotor and the wheel to keep the dust off the wheel.They were not very pretty but they did work.
When you do a brake pad
change, you can check the
rotor for any visible damage then.
No, what you need to do is check for the worn
rotor warning signs after you
change your brake pads.
When using some higher quality brake pads, they will tell you if you are
changing from one pad compound to another (either
changing brands or product lines) to use new or re-surfaced
rotors.
Michelle has the car now and has about 120,000 miles on it and her mechanic in Maryland (where she is a police officer... and I am so proud of her for that) just told her that at her next oil
change she should plan on replacing the from brake pads... the
rotors still look fine.
Includes air filter replacement, wiper blade replacement, battery diagnostic check and replacement, oil and filter
change, exterior bulb replacement, cabin filter replacement, tire replacement, rotation, and balance, brake pad,
rotor, shoe, drum, and fluid replacement, minor maintenance services such as spark plug, transmission fluid, or coolant replacement.
24,098 Warranty 3 - yr / 36, 000 - mi bumper - to - bumper 5 - yr / 60, 000 - mi powertrain 3 - yr / 36, 000 - mi roadside assistance Scheduled Maintenance 10,682 mi: $ 0, oil
change, oil filter 18,227 mi: $ 0, oil
change, oil filter Recalls None Out - Of - Pocket 4,245 mi: Resurface brake
rotors, purchase and install new front / rear brake pads, flush brake fluid, four - wheel alignment, $ 933.26 4,301 mi: Purchase, mount, balance Michelin X-Ice Xi3 235 / 45R -17 tires, $ 904.38 9,928 mi: Repair right rear fender, rear bumper, decklid, and quarter panel, $ 3,474.93 12,290 mi: Reinstall OEM tires, $ 100 12,310 mi: Purchase and install Hawk HPS front / rear brake pads, four - wheel alignment, new cabin air filter, $ 651.02 20,723 mi: Repair dent under front right foglight, $ 618.82 Fuel Consumption: EPA city / highway / combined: 21/28/24 mpg Observed: N / A Cost Per Mile (Fuel, service, winter tires) N / A Trade - In Value $ 24,900 * Estimate based on information from Intellichoice
• Air Filter Replacement • Wiper Blade Replacement • Battery Diagnostic Check and Replacement • Oil and Filter
Change • Exterior Bulb Replacement • Cabin Filter Replacement • Tire Replacement, Rotation, and Balance • Brake Pad,
Rotor, Shoe, Drum, and Fluid Replacement • Minor Maintenance Services such as Spark Plug, Transmission Fluid, or Coolant Replacement Plus, every dealer visit includes a NO - CHARGE Multi-Point Dealer Inspection.
Brakes were initially a nightmare with front
rotors and pads
changed three times (once covered under warranty).
Changes include t Brembo 4 - piston calipers and two - piece
rotors, Bilstein springs with monotube dampers, and Kumho Ecsta SPT 275 / 35R19 high performance summer tires.
The Corvettes were able to make it a race for the first seven hours, but extended pit stops to
change the front brake
rotors and calipers proved costly.
Fresh oil
change, new rear axle bushings, new front brake pads and
rotors installed, rear brakes cleaned and adjusted, new air cabin filter and engine air filter installed!
A mechanic should inspect the parking brake shoes while performing a brake service (
changing the rear brake pads or
rotors).
Service carried out under current ownership included a new alternator, brake pads and
rotors, sway bar link stabilizers, headlights, and battery, and an oil
change was recently performed in preparation for the sale.
Fresh oil
change, new coolant reservoir and coolant flush performed, new front and rear brake pads and
rotors installed, drive belt replaced, A?C line replaced and driver side front axle seal was replaced!
SERVICE PERFORMED AT INSPECTION - PREOWNED SERVICE -
CHANGED ENGINE OIL AND FILTER - FILLED TIRES WITH NITROGEN - REPLACED FRONT BRAKE PADS - RESURFACED FRONT BRAKE
ROTORS - REPLACED REAR BRAKE PADS - RESURFACED
The list of technical
changes further includes larger front and rear stabilizer bars, higher spring and damper rates, upsized 12» front brake
rotors, retuned steering and retuned final drive ratios.