Did you use any protective
coating like polyurethane?
Not exact matches
I assume that when I apply it that way that I need to apply a few more
coats for extra durability
like when using true Wipe - On
Polyurethanes.
Also then what would you recommend to protect the cabinets,
like a
coat of
polyurethane?
After
coating the forward surface of an aluminum support with pigmented acrylic
polyurethane, he sanded it to produce a sheen that, from certain angles, makes the long rectangular support look
like a copper cylinder.
He also went easy on the protective
polyurethane coating, only applying it to high - use areas
like the kitchen to reduce the amount of VOC's.
May I ask if you used flat, satin or semi-glass (it looks
like flat or satin) and did you use a wax or any kind of
polyurethane coating over it?
The good news is that hardwood, whether solid or engineered, is protected these days with a plastic -
like polyurethane coating.
Let the stain dry completely before using a
polyurethane top
coat like Minwax Wipe - On Poly in Satin.
If you can find Rustoleum Clear
Coat (it's an enamel
like the paint you used), you can spray it over, but that can be pretty smelly itself, so instead I would use Brush - on Polycrylic (not the spray version) It is a water - base
polyurethane that has no smell.
Also then what would you recommend to protect the cabinets,
like a
coat of
polyurethane?
I think a common misconception about clear wax is that it is JUST a top -
coat like other top
coats (polyacrylic,
polyurethane, verathane).
It is very shiny with a clear
Polyurethane like thick
coat.