I waxed the paint (and
drawer fronts when they were dry) using APC's Clear Vintage Wax and some of Dark Vintage Wax.
Not exact matches
When drawers are open, their
front part become heavy and can easily fall over with weight of baby.
I thought I would sketch the design out on the
front of the dresser and forgo the taping off (bad idea
when the
drawers are not flush with the face of the dresser).
If you are wondering why I don't paint right to the edge it is because
when the
drawers are closed you will see the yellow (just a little) and that would annoy me so I always leave the lip either unpainted in this case or whatever colour I painted the
drawer fronts.
When we saw this table sitting in the thrift store we thought those recessed
drawer fronts looked like the perfect little frames to do something fun.
The hand - welded iron frame holds
drawers on both sides, for a table with serious presence as well as storage space — especially
when used as an anchoring piece in
front of an oversized modern sofa or sectional.
That's because
when cabinets are refaced, you save the «bones» of the cabinets and only replace the door
fronts and
drawers for a complete transformation.
When the paint was dry I sanded to refine, and added a soft Umber Glaze to the
drawer fronts.
I found this little desk at a thrift store last year and loved its unique features: the
front molding piece which retracts
when the desk top is folded open, the breadboard desktop inside which pulls out, and the hidden
drawer underneath.
It's been an on - going struggle the last six years to make it a working space, and just
when I think I've finally conquered it, someone leaves laundry bins in
front of the craft shelves, causing the crafts to pile up on the side table, preventing us from finding the things we need in the stationary
drawers, and sewing bins pile up beneath that.
When measuring the height and width of a
drawer front, note the exact position of its knob.
I try not to load my paintbrush too heavy
when painting the
drawer fronts and I always double / triple check for drips before moving onto the next
drawer.
Made up of interlocking wedge - shaped elements called pins and tails, the joint connects
drawer fronts, sides, and backs, designed to withstand the daily pulling forces you apply
when you open a
drawer, for problem - free use.
When shut, the
front of this
drawer blends in seamlessly and the non-obtrusive pull is flush with the bottom of the cabinet above it.
So I used a piece of cardstock and cut it to the dimensions of the
drawer front and then I measured out where I wanted my new pull and colored in the nail holes to show where I (and
when I say «I» I mean Big Daddy) would pre drill holes for the screws.
I thought I would sketch the design out on the
front of the dresser and forgo the taping off (bad idea
when the
drawers are not flush with the face of the dresser).
I may work on the
drawer fronts eventually, adding some chippy paint, and I would also love to get some new hardware - which I think I will know
when I see it!
Drawer front removal is only necessary when a drawer upgrade is or
Drawer front removal is only necessary
when a
drawer upgrade is or
drawer upgrade is ordered.
To ensure the
drawer sits flush
when closed, the
fronts fold in slightly as it is opened.
Paint in white gloss and,
when dry, glue to the
drawer fronts.