This is a result of the force of you turning the screwdriver x the distance to
the end of the screwdriver.
If you're familiar with which
end of a screwdriver to hold, though, you should probably be okay.
Not exact matches
and used a
screwdriver (with a plastic handle) to tap across the bare
ends of the two wires.
First pull a spark plug wire off, stick a thin
screwdriver in the
end of the wire where the spark plug goes.
In addition a small multimeter or small electrical test lights; a set
of tire irons and a patch kit (for inner tubes) or plug kit for tubeless tires; a couple feet
of bailing wire and a few large zip ties; a four in one
screwdriver; a few
of metric hex keys or torx keys as needed for the handlebars and or bodyworks; a sparkplug socket that can be turned with either one
of the open
end wrenches or the
screwdriver; a set
of pliers or a cheapie Leatherman type tool.
Using a dab
of the die - electric grease on the
end of a small flat
screwdriver, spread some along the slip ring track in several places and rotate the wheel lock - to - lock several times.
Taking that into consideration, I decided to put the 4PS to the ultimate test; using the front
end of a Philips
Screwdriver.
In the demo we're privy to, Mr. Fantastic
ends up slipping through grates to reach secret areas, transforming into a
screwdriver, a pair
of cutting pliers, and a parachute, all in the space
of five minutes.
For the «assembly» claim to be valid, the product's last «substantial transformation» also should have occurred in the U.S.. That's why a «
screwdriver» assembly in the U.S.
of foreign components into a final product at the
end of the manufacturing process doesn't usually qualify for the «Assembled in USA» claim.
If you have any noticeable areas
of bleed / product seep you can try to clean it up a bit — the
end of a pencil (eraser) works good, as do mini flat
screwdrivers, flat toothpicks etc — If I am applying thick products onto mirror / glass I typically let the design dry, then clean messy parts using a single razor blade.