Sentences with phrase «engine vacuum leaks»

You may need to have additional diagnosis done by a mechanic like one from YourMechanic to see if the ignition timing is correct and there is no engine vacuum leaks in the intake or vacuum lines.

You may have an engine vacuum leak that is only there when cold and seals up as engine warms.

Not exact matches

I am not familiar with the Peugot 2.0 HDi engine, but it sounds more like a turbo or vacuum leak than an injector issue.

It doesn't seem to be running rough but I'm not sure if the engine only have 1 new plug and coil is throwing off the balance and making the code for the catalytic converter show up or if its due to the catalytic converter going bad or if its the intake manifold having a vacuum leak.

There are more advanced tests which can be performed such as Vacuum Tests, Leak - Down Tests, Dry and Wet Compression tests, which will give a more specific picture of the engines health but these might be out of the scope of the query.

The VW had less than 50 miles transmission stopped working due to coffee spill, at 50k Thermostat stuck closed, then Coil pack, cracked coolant tank, abs module, 3 faulty engine coolant sensor, complete lower and upper suspension, vacuum hose leak, starter, bad ground cable, driver window fell off the rail, AC stopped working, heater core clogged, hood cable broke, moon roof slides open on it's own, motor / transmission mounts, front snub mounts, 3 cracked oil pan for being to close to ground, driver window switch, rear light housing, + usual maintenance.

The brake booster runs off engine vacuum, so a vacuum leak can also affect the amount of force you need to exert on the brakes to stop.

A vacuum leak can trigger a «check engine» light because the fuel system is running too «lean,» meaning it has a greater mix of air than is ideal.

Remember you'll need new gaskets to do this or your new engine will have plenty of issues (like vacuum leaks in the intake which will allow unmetered air into the intake system, and exhaust leaks which will allow air into the exhaust track allowing for really crappy gas mileage.).

When the 2.5 l vacuum pump fails it will cause an engine oil leak.

Some Examples: Air filter clogged Exhaust leak plugged cat clogged fuel injector malfunctioning fuel pressure regulator clogged fuel filter malfunctioning fuel pump spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil Vacuum leak dirty throttle body malfunctioning fast idle thermo valve (similar to vacuum leak) low oil (unless there is an oil level sensor) belts gaskets seals rings low compression bearing damage (rod knock) Broken cam rocker fell / broke off broken valve spring stuck valve critical engine damage (windowed the block) wiring, fuses, relays starting system - ignition switch, starter, relay Cooling system - clogs, leaks, flow (may throw a code if you overheat) transmission clutch (es) driveshaft, differential, axles brakes suspension tires hvac lights Vacuum leak dirty throttle body malfunctioning fast idle thermo valve (similar to vacuum leak) low oil (unless there is an oil level sensor) belts gaskets seals rings low compression bearing damage (rod knock) Broken cam rocker fell / broke off broken valve spring stuck valve critical engine damage (windowed the block) wiring, fuses, relays starting system - ignition switch, starter, relay Cooling system - clogs, leaks, flow (may throw a code if you overheat) transmission clutch (es) driveshaft, differential, axles brakes suspension tires hvac lights vacuum leak) low oil (unless there is an oil level sensor) belts gaskets seals rings low compression bearing damage (rod knock) Broken cam rocker fell / broke off broken valve spring stuck valve critical engine damage (windowed the block) wiring, fuses, relays starting system - ignition switch, starter, relay Cooling system - clogs, leaks, flow (may throw a code if you overheat) transmission clutch (es) driveshaft, differential, axles brakes suspension tires hvac lights gauges

A stopped up pcv vacuum port / line will cause excessive oil consumption and can cause leaks and / or oil consumption as pressure builds inside the engine.

I've covered it to try and pinpoint a vacuum leak, idle RPM drops slightly and then when I release it it almost stalls the engine.

Did you check your vacuum lines, IDK about your specific vehicle, but on some cars the climate control is powered by vacuum and a vacuum leak will cause them to operate / fail intermittently based on engine load.

I'd suggest checking engine vacuum then maybe doing a leak down test if engine vacuum appears abnormal.

The EPA started to require that leaking gasoline fumes be reduced to virtually zero, and the EVAP system on every current car is controlled largely by — you guessed it — engine vacuum.

A leaky manifold gasket can also result in air being sucked through the leaky gasket, resulting in a vacuum leak and poor engine performance.

There are a few reasons why gasoline would mix with engine oil, ranging from gasoline leaking inside a vacuum line or a cracked intake manifold.

The booster uses engine vacuum to assist the brake pedal so when it fails, you can get a vacuum leak,...

Check the engine for any vacuum leaks.

You should first check for any vacuum leaks that would cause the engine to idle higher than normal.

A vacuum leak can cause an engine to idle high due to the excessive amount of air flow into the fuel injection system.

If this issue it only occurring at idle, then it is either due to a vacuum leak in the engine or more commonly a failing idle air control valve.

These engines had issues with vacuum leaks at the throttle body and intake gaskets.

Typically, you will hear a hissing noise from the engine compartment or brake pedal with a vacuum leak.

There are many causes of hard starting but illustrative ones are a faulty engine coolant temperature switch (sensor), malfunctioning idle air control (IAC) valve, vacuum and EGR leaks, inadequate fuel delivery or pressure (clogged fuel filter, dirty fuel injectors), and contaminated or old gasoline.

The brake booster operates from the engine vacuum; if the engine vacuum is leaking somewhere, then the power assist will not work, and your engine will rev higher to attempt to stay running.

Rough idle and excessive shaking of the engine could be due to a bad tank of gasoline, dirty fuel injectors, incorrect idle speed, exhaust restrictions, vacuum leaks, incorrectly installed or damaged spark plugs, a defective or clogged fuel pump or fuel filter, failing electrical components such as the ignition control module, plug wires, coils, and spark plugs, a defective airflow sensor, dirty oxygen sensors and other causes.

Those things are notorious for getting vacuum leaks on them because the tops of the engines are all made out of plastic — including the intake system.

Basically, this is a condition where a vacuum leak is present until the engine heats up and the induction parts expand and seal the leak.

A small vacuum leak will cause the engine rpm to be...

Does have a check engine light on but it comes up as vacuum leak which is common on turbo cars.

I usually check the engine for vacuum leaks first.

It is likely you have a vacuum leak or these sensors are starting to fail and are offering the engine computer false...

Sounds like the engine has either a major vacuum leak or a burned valve.

The brake booster operates from the engine vacuum; if the engine vacuum is leaking somewhere, then the power assist will not work, and your engine will...

Usually a high engine idle is caused by a vacuum leak.

If you get the engine started, but it stalls, there could be a problem with the throttle position sensor, the idle air control valve, the EGR system, vacuum leaks, and so forth.

You will need to have the computer scanned for codes to see if there is a problem with the idle control valve or engine has a vacuum leak.

Examples of vacuum leaks include: leaking intake manifold gasket, broken PCV valve or PCV hose, disconnected vacuum line, cracked vacuum line, ripped intake snorkel - faulty fuel injector - damaged engine computer (PCM)- low fuel pressure - leaking head gasket - low compression in the affected cylinder - valves that are out of adjustment - bad mass airflow sensor (random misfire).

In a more technical jargon, vacuum or intake leaks are called «unmetered air», as the air enters the intake system through a damage intake boot or other leak is not metered by the mass air flow sensor and therefore the the engine computer can not calculate the amount of fuel injected properly, causing the engine to run «lean».

An air leak anywhere between the engine intake and the air filter is usually called vacuum or Intake leak.