The circumference of the stool was 56 inches; I added 36 inches for the three pleats and I added 1 inch
for the seam allowances to yield a width of 93 inches.)
Any - who, back to the pillow constuction... I wanted my pillow to be very full so I did not allow extra fabric
for my seam allowances in the measurements.
Somehow both of us failed to allow
for seam allowances!
Add 1.5 cm all round
for seam allowances and cut out the 3 paper templates.
I don't allow
for seam allowances in a pillow cover because I want my pillow form to fill the cover.
Trim away any excess batting fabric and just leave enough
for the seam allowance.
If you are using a bib you already have, you will need to add a 1/2 ″ all the way around the bib when you make your pattern in order to allow
for the seam allowance.
Trace around the outer edges, making sure to add an inch or so
for a seam allowance.
Then add another inch or more
for your seam allowance.
Step Nine: Starting at one end, allowing 1/2»
for the seam allowance, sew along the outside edge of the fabric.
Allow 1/4» to 1/2»»
for the seam allowance.
:: let the kids know they need to keep their creations a few centimetres from the edge of the fabric to allow
for your seam allowance when you are ready to sew your cushion cover together;
Since the yoke was 8 ″ and the finished length I wanted was 24 ″, I measured up 16 ″ and added 1/2 inch
for a seam allowance.
I left a good 2 inches
for seam allowance and as I have learned in the past if it's too tight you can't fix it.
Basically, I took my waist measurement and multiplied it by 1.5, then added another inch or so
for seam allowance.
I also use a tape measure just to double check that the guide is positioned accurately by measuring from the needle
for any seam allowance that is larger than what is make on the plate beneath the presser foot.
Cut along the pattern piece, adding about 1/2 ″
for seam allowance.
Measure your fabric 17 ″ wide and as long as you need for your table, adding 2 inches to the measurement
for the seam allowance.
I don't cut them larger
for a seam allowance.
Don't forget to allow
for a seam allowance.
to mark off an inch larger than the old pillow form to allow
for seam allowance (or in this case, iron - on tape allowance).
For example — if you have a 18 × 18 inch pillow form, cut your fabric 20 × 20 inches to account
for the seam allowance.
I like my pillows fuller, so I cut my material to be the same size as my pillow insert — and add half an inch on all sides
for the seam allowance.
If you have a curved headboard, you can lay the headboard on top of your fabric and trace it with a fabric pencil and then add 4 inches
for the seam allowance.
These pieces should be half of your natural waist measurement, plus an extra inch
for your seam allowance.
Add 1/4 ″
for a seam allowance up the 2 sides, and on the top of the shoulders.
I used the side of the presser foot as a guide
for my seam allowance....
I trimmed the fabric to the same size of the napkins, plus an inch all around
for seam allowance — mind you, the napkins were not perfectly square, nor were they even the same size.
I took my circumference of 59 ″ +.5 ″
for seam allowance and 19 ″ height + 3 ″ for the fold + 1 ″ seam allowance -LRB-.5 ″ on top and.5 ″ on the bottom) + 2 ″ for slack at the bottom of the bag and made the cuts for the rectangle.
Not exact matches
The
seam allowance must be folded under while topstitching, as in step 11, so you must leave space
for it!
For a pro touch, I recommend that you also get 130 cm of 2 cm bias binding tape with which to enclose the hem
seam allowance (see Step 7).
If it wasn't
for the instructions being so minimal, I'd recommend this pattern to an absolute beginner, as the structure is simple and with a little modification the results can be look very professional: all but one
seam allowance are hidden!
For the most natural shoulder / sleeve silhouette, press the armhole
seam allowances open about 4 in.
Once it's made, hand - stitch the crosswise
seam of the pad to the armhole
seam allowance for about 4 in.
Either reason, it doesn't really matter in the end because she, fortunately, included wide enough
seam allowances for me to make the necessary adjustments with no problems!
An invisible zipper requires a 1 cm
seam allowance which I've drawn in below
for this demonstration.
Because I was afraid of the hatband also being too small which would result in the hat sitting on the top of my head like a pancake (strangely enough... not the look I was going
for), I measured my head and then cut my hatband out at that measurement +
seam allowance, sewed the hatband together at the sides, and tried it on to make sure it fit.
I was a bit unprepared
for how much fabric this pattern takes, and I had to make a slight modification to the back by making it two pieces instead of one (just add the
seam allowance to the center cuts).
When I originally purchased her, she was too small
for me, and the seller told me there was
seam allowance to let her out.
Our pillows are serged to protect from fraying, and we leave enough
seam allowances for repairs.
Step 4: Use scissors to make small slices about every inch along the bag's
seam allowance to allow
for easy turning.
Hem both folded - under sides, leaving a 1 / 2 - inch
seam allowance, with white outdoor thread ($ 4.99
for 200 yards; joann.com).
The larger sizes accounts
for a 1/2 ″
seam allowance.
There are different instructions
for neatening edges and hem facing and waist tunnel
seam allowance, so please take the
seam allowances specified.
You could cover it in anything including fabric or felt like I used
for the larger pair - just leave about a half inch
seam allowance and glue.
* I like my pillow covers to fit snuggly, so to avoid baggy covers I do not allow
for a width
seam allowance.
If you're making this
for a child, you don't have to add any
seam allowance.
Pattern pieces are traced to allow
for size,
seam allowance and fit.
Personally, I find garments with back zips much easier to tailor, especially
for beginners, because you often can leave the zipper alone and tailor your garment based on the fabric in the side
seam allowances.
I totally cheated and finished the
seam allowances by gluing the edges with Steam - a-
Seam Lite — no time left
for binding this unlined jacket!