Sentences with phrase «for vacuum leaks»

The OEMTOOLS Universal Cooling System Filler purges those problematic airlocks checks for vacuum leaks and then allows the technician to refill the system quickly and easily.

Check the brake booster for any vacuum leaks.

I usually check the engine for vacuum leaks first.

Clears all trouble codes and completes a test drive to see if the P2281 diagnostic trouble code comes back (if so, it will be necessary to check for vacuum leaks)

With the car running and while applying the brake, checks for vacuum leaks in the vacuum lines, hoses, air inlet tubes, and fuel injector

It is also important to check for vacuum leaks and carbon buildup in the throttle body air passages.

Inspects the throttle body for vacuum leaks and high carbon build up.

You should first check for any vacuum leaks that would cause the engine to idle higher than normal.

The induction should be inspected and checked for vacuum leaks.

If everything is fine then I do a smoke test of the intake system to check for vacuum leaks.

Check the engine for any vacuum leaks.

Have someone check for vacuum leaks...

Check the intake for any vacuum leaks and also the brake booster.

I have checked for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner sprayed a mist over all intakes but no high idle or low idle just stayed the same idle.

Recheck for vacuum leaks.

I checked for vacuum leaks.

Have you checked for vacuum leaks?

Having just replaced the PVC valve on a 2013 TSI and still getting a P2177 code I started looking for vacuum leaks and would like to know if it is normal for a good PCV valve to expel a small amount of air through the vent hole?

Did you check for vacuum leaks?

I checked for vacuum leaks and possible broken wires to map but all seems good.

added information, the car starts up but in order for it to keep running the accelerator has to be pushed over and over, the maf sensor was replaced and installed in correct direction, I also tried searching for vacuum leaks but there was no change in rpm, could the hoses to the intake boot be in wrong position?

Some people have stated listening for a vacuum leak noise and if located within a vicinity disconnect and add a new line of the same diameter and get a cigar and blow smoke from the cigar in the line.

Have visually checked for broken tubes and everything for a vacuum leak and didn't see anything.

Not exact matches

Given that it only happens when it's warm I am thinking there must be a vacuum leak and for a moment it sucks in too much air.

It doesn't seem to be running rough but I'm not sure if the engine only have 1 new plug and coil is throwing off the balance and making the code for the catalytic converter show up or if its due to the catalytic converter going bad or if its the intake manifold having a vacuum leak.

Vacuum Leaks - I've visually inspected all vac lines / hoses and sprayed a little carb cleaner looking for lLeaks - I've visually inspected all vac lines / hoses and sprayed a little carb cleaner looking for leaksleaks.

The VW had less than 50 miles transmission stopped working due to coffee spill, at 50k Thermostat stuck closed, then Coil pack, cracked coolant tank, abs module, 3 faulty engine coolant sensor, complete lower and upper suspension, vacuum hose leak, starter, bad ground cable, driver window fell off the rail, AC stopped working, heater core clogged, hood cable broke, moon roof slides open on it's own, motor / transmission mounts, front snub mounts, 3 cracked oil pan for being to close to ground, driver window switch, rear light housing, + usual maintenance.

This caused a vacuum leak and a CEL for a lean code.

I googled for P0506, and the first page I found also mentions vacuum leak as the first possible cause of failure: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0506... although to be fair, there are some other possible causes as well.

If the OP applies it through the brake vacuum hose it will smoke like crazy for a few moments, the perfect time to look for exhaust leaks.

However, I had a CEL come on, due to a tiny vacuum leak at the gas cap and I drove it for quite a while, over a year, with no ill effects.

Other than an occasional rough start - starts fine but stumbles and hunts for a few seconds - I don't see any indication of a vacuum leak.

I have a VW GTI 2011 dealership says the vacuum pump seal gasket is leaking And can not get one for another 3 to 4 weeks does this sound right?they claim it has to be made in Germany and shipped over here.

The funny thing is, this vacuum pump leaking is often mistake for a leaking rear main seal.

My bad, forgot to update in these comments lol But I got everything sorted out fine, followed some of the trouble shooting tips from your answer, and I cleaned the carbs one last time to be sure, also cut some mounts up on the air box so I could push it more flush up against the carbs without them stopping it, and made sure to screw it down real tight, Bike works amazingly now, there's still a slight vacuum leak from 1 - 2 fittings but at least now I know exactly what it is, just got ta decide if im gonna fix it or buy a new airbox, thanks for your help man!

When I get the chance I plan on checking my Vacuum lines for leaks.

Remember you'll need new gaskets to do this or your new engine will have plenty of issues (like vacuum leaks in the intake which will allow unmetered air into the intake system, and exhaust leaks which will allow air into the exhaust track allowing for really crappy gas mileage.).

This is useful for diagnosing MIL issues that can come and go like vacuum leaks, bad connections and misfires.

It is not unusual for the vacuum actuated portion of the petcock to fail and the owner to clip and plug the vacuum line going to the intake boot to eliminate the associated vacuum leak.

Let's assume you have already checked for small vacuum leaks in the rubber tubing on the intake manifold and replaced the PCV valve (if applicable)...

An easy way to check for the leak is to pull a vacuum line off the intake and suck a small amount (1 - 2oz) of transmission fluid into the intake via that vacuum line.

Another thing to check for is a vacuum leak.

You can test for the presence of a leak without expending any R134a by sucking the system down to a vacuum.

You might also check vacuum lines and intake manifold gasket for air leaks.

When you are getting the idle control valve replaced, your mechanic should inspect the vacuum lines for leaks.

It's also good for finding exhaust leaks — an exhaust leak upstream of the O2 sensor can pull in extra oxygen and mimic a vacuum leak, even if it's not large enough to make any noise.

MB uses vacuum actuators for door locks and other functions with your model year, and the vacuum line are notorious for leaking as the rubber tubing ages.

Extensive amounts of time are used to detect vacuum leaks without testing for proper operation of the EVAP leak detection pump.

Inspects vacuum hoses and fuel vapor lines and EVAP vacuum lines for breaks or bends (these lines can be very long so time should be taken when inspecting them; it may be necessary to use a smoke machine to find leaks successfully, especially small leaks that are difficult to see)

You should check the fuel injection pressure regulator for leaking fuel through the top vacuum port and if it is then replace it.