Sentences with phrase «fuel pressure there»

If the vehicle runs for a minute, there should be fuel pressure there as well.

Not exact matches

«There is enormous pressure when a missile reenters the atmosphere... If (electrical) circuits break and a trigger device fails to detonate nuclear fuel, you can imagine that only some twisted metal will fall on Alaska or Hawaii, even if North Korea fires missiles at them,» said Kim Dong - yub, an analyst at Seoul's Institute for Far Eastern Studies.
Between rising oil prices and ongoing concerns over climate change, there is growing pressure on the global shipping industry to cut its fuel consumption.
But what does the future look like for fossil fuels in a world where there is increasing pressure to keep them in the ground?
Unless, of course, there was a major disaster that rapidly buried all sorts of plant and animal life under extreme pressure, in which case science would allow for fossil fuels to develop in such a circu.mstance (as evidenced in the Mt. St Helens eruption)... but said disaster never occured in the bible, did it?
But New York is the only state with such a moratorium, and there is increasing pressure to convert trucking fleets to natural gas, which burns cleaner than diesel fuel.
From what I have seen there must be damage to the high pressure fuel pump.
There s no pumps in this model by design, it is said that the high pressure pump will suck the fuel by creating vacuum in the feed line.
If there is metal in the High Pressure Fuel Pump, give VWofA a call and see if they can help you out at all.
EDIT: (Because I was asked by «anonymous»): There SHOULD be fuel pressure just by turning on the key.
As fuel system is concerned, the fuel pump activates, and there is some pressure in the line, as the fuel port on the injector rail squirts fuel when pressed with a screwdriver.
Fuel and ignition are controlled by a precision Motec management system that also has a data - logging facility, and there are HKS iridium spark plugs and a high - pressure fuel pFuel and ignition are controlled by a precision Motec management system that also has a data - logging facility, and there are HKS iridium spark plugs and a high - pressure fuel pfuel pump.
If a vehicle struggles with hot starts but is fine with cold starts, it indicates that there is a lack of fuel pressure in the fuel lines.
Inside there's a trio of new dials on the top of the dash — for oil pressure, fuel pressure and boost pressure — plus Shelby embroidered headrests and floor mats.
I dare to say that if there was even the slightest amount of air in a fuel line, gasoline would explode at those kind of pressures.
There is an option in my ecu to disable all fuel injection below a certain manifold pressure but if you set the threshold too high, it will cause continuous misfiring when you lift off the throttle.
Other than the rough idle and hard starting there's no problem, the engine has plenty of power at high rpms and doesn't seem to be misfiring, both of which I think it would have problems with if the fuel pump wasn't providing sufficient pressure or volume.
Some Examples: Air filter clogged Exhaust leak plugged cat clogged fuel injector malfunctioning fuel pressure regulator clogged fuel filter malfunctioning fuel pump spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil Vacuum leak dirty throttle body malfunctioning fast idle thermo valve (similar to vacuum leak) low oil (unless there is an oil level sensor) belts gaskets seals rings low compression bearing damage (rod knock) Broken cam rocker fell / broke off broken valve spring stuck valve critical engine damage (windowed the block) wiring, fuses, relays starting system - ignition switch, starter, relay Cooling system - clogs, leaks, flow (may throw a code if you overheat) transmission clutch (es) driveshaft, differential, axles brakes suspension tires hvac lights gauges
I'm suggesting you have the fuel pressure checked while running to figure out if there is a problem with your fuel pump.
I can only guess that there had been problems with the power to the fuel pump, which my checking of the fuses and relays had fixed, but that the pressure in the fuel line had gone down to an extent where it needed more time with the pump on to get back to a level that could start the car.
Normally it needs to be check with pressure indicator but still you can check if fuel exist in the pressure line (there should be a small valve similar to the tire valves).
There are three warning lights on the dashboard which is low engine pressure oil, fuel injection system failure and the power steering warning light is on also.
Typically though you will want to look at things which will have a drastic impact on what you are measuring, I would place fuel and air pressure / volume up there as two things which need to have a close eye kept on.
It can also mean there is less fuel than usual such as a weak fuel pressure, dirty fuel injectors, bad O2 giving computer a bad reading so fuel is lessened, bad engine coolant temperature sensor giving computer a hot reading so fuel is lessened.
Hi There, It sounds like you may have a dirty or faulty idle air control valve or potentially a bad fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump.
The P2294 code indicates that there is a problem with high - pressure fuel regulator circuit.
There are a number of things that may cause the car to hesitate when accelerating such as low fuel pressure, a dirty or...
Hi There, There are a number of things that may cause the car to hesitate when accelerating such as low fuel pressure, a dirty or faulty mass air flow sensor, clogged or dirty fuel injectors, a faulty throttle position sensor...
There are many causes of hard starting but illustrative ones are a faulty engine coolant temperature switch (sensor), worn spark plugs, inadequate fuel delivery or pressure (e.g., clogged fuel filter), dirty fuel injectors, contaminated or old gasoline, malfunctioning idle air control valve, poor engine compression, and so forth.
When using your Vehicle, UVO eServices automatically (or passively), including, through the use of telematics, collects and stores information about your Vehicle, such as: (i) information about your Vehicle's operation, performance and condition, including such things as diagnostic trouble codes, oil life remaining, tire pressure, fuel economy and odometer readings, battery use management information, battery charging history, battery deterioration information, electrical system functions; (ii) driver behavior information, which is information about how a person drives a Vehicle, such as the actual or approximate speed of your Vehicle, seat belt use, information about braking habits and information about collisions involving your Vehicle and which air bags have deployed; (iii) information about your use of the Vehicle and its features, such as whether you have paired a mobile Device with your Vehicle); (iv) the precise geographic location of your Vehicle; (v) data about remote services we make available such as remote lock / unlock, start / stop charge, parking location, climate control, charge schedules, and Vehicle status check; (vi) when there is a request for service made; and (vii) information about the Vehicle itself (such as the Vehicle identification number (VIN), make, model, model year, selling dealer, servicing dealer, date of purchase or lease and service history)(collectively, «Vehicle Information»).
There were single - and twin - Zenith carburettor, fuel - injection, and turbocharged engines, including both Full Pressure Turbo (FPT), and, in European models during the early 1990s, Light Pressure Turbos (LPT).
There are different filters for carbureted and high - pressure fuel injected engines, so be sure you're getting the correct version.
Check the fuel pressure on the fuel rail and see if there is...
There are many causes of hard starting but illustrative ones are a faulty engine coolant temperature switch (sensor), malfunctioning idle air control (IAC) valve, vacuum and EGR leaks, inadequate fuel delivery or pressure (clogged fuel filter, dirty fuel injectors), and contaminated or old gasoline.
There are several possible sources that trigger these two codes including a faulty fuel pressure regulator, weak fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, faulty powertrain control module, vacuum leak, faulty injector (s), faulty oxygen sensor (s) and a faulty mass air...
Hi there - I would check the fuel pressure with a gauge to see what the pressure on the fuel rail actually is.
There are a number of things that may cause the car to hesitate (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/engine-hesitates-during-acceleration-inspection) when accelerating such as low fuel pressure, a dirty or faulty mass air flow sensor, clogged or dirty fuel injectors, a faulty throttle position sensor or...
Hi There, As you know, the fuel pressure sensor is merely a device that monitors the fuel pressure in the fuel injection system.
Check the fuel pressure on the fuel rail and see if there is at least 30 psi.
The four circular dials are speedometer, tachometer, fuel gauge and oil temperature — but there's no coolant - temperature or oil - pressure gauge.
You can easily check for fuel pressure on the fuel rail to rule that out but if there is adequate fuel pressure you have to further test the fuel injectors to determine if...
There are a few things that may cause this to happen, such as a clogged fuel filter, a failing fuel pump, a restricted fuel line or in some cases, a faulty fuel pressure sensor.
There are no rust bubbles, major scratches, chips, etc.The 15» Rallye wheels are brand new, including the center caps, trim rings and Cooper Cobra white letter tires.All of the trim and bumpers are in good shape and are not beat up.The glass is all in good shape and the windows roll up and down easily.Interior: The interior is in good shape overall as well.The seat covers look good and do not have any tears, holes, etc.The carpet looks to be in decent shape.The original dash pad has some cracks and a previous owner has put a carpeted dash cover on top of the dash pad.The headliner is in good shape but the sail panels are a little loose.The original speedometer and tachometer work, as well as the fuel gauge, but there is an aftermarket oil pressure and water temperature gauge mounted under the dash.The head lights, tail lights and brake lights all work, but the turn signals do not work.The windshield wipers work like they are supposed to as well.The B&M shifter works well and is easy to get in and out of gear.Drivetrain: The engine is a very strong running 340 small block that's had some work done tThere are no rust bubbles, major scratches, chips, etc.The 15» Rallye wheels are brand new, including the center caps, trim rings and Cooper Cobra white letter tires.All of the trim and bumpers are in good shape and are not beat up.The glass is all in good shape and the windows roll up and down easily.Interior: The interior is in good shape overall as well.The seat covers look good and do not have any tears, holes, etc.The carpet looks to be in decent shape.The original dash pad has some cracks and a previous owner has put a carpeted dash cover on top of the dash pad.The headliner is in good shape but the sail panels are a little loose.The original speedometer and tachometer work, as well as the fuel gauge, but there is an aftermarket oil pressure and water temperature gauge mounted under the dash.The head lights, tail lights and brake lights all work, but the turn signals do not work.The windshield wipers work like they are supposed to as well.The B&M shifter works well and is easy to get in and out of gear.Drivetrain: The engine is a very strong running 340 small block that's had some work done tthere is an aftermarket oil pressure and water temperature gauge mounted under the dash.The head lights, tail lights and brake lights all work, but the turn signals do not work.The windshield wipers work like they are supposed to as well.The B&M shifter works well and is easy to get in and out of gear.Drivetrain: The engine is a very strong running 340 small block that's had some work done to it.
It seems that despite adopting: — a lithium - ion battery; — a «high - pressure direct fuel injection that replaced the less - efficient multi-port injection type»; — a new Hydra - Matic six - speed automatic transmission that replaces the conventional four speed used previously; — a «new BAS design [that is supposed to] ha [ve] noteworthy fuel economy gains compared to the earlier system»; — all those «talks» of «advancements gained from production of multiple generations of hybrid technology as well as development of the Chevy Volt»; — and significantly less horsepower and oomph than an Accord hybrid that was first debuted 7 years ago, there are actually little to show for any significant advancement in fuel economy from GM's latest hybrid.
When we get a problem such as this, we often hook up a fuel pressure gauge and tape the dial to the windshield, then drive the vehicle until it quits, and note whether there is fuel pressure when it does.
There will be plenty of fuel available: the SRT Demon carries dual fuel pumps (versus one pump in the Challenger SRT Hellcat), larger fuel injectors and fuel lines that handle higher pressures.
If there are no trouble codes, have a fuel - pressure and volume test performed, and perhaps a compression test while you're at it.
There is standard information such as odometer, fuel range, and economy, but vehicle information such as oil life remaining and tire pressure can also be displayed.
There are no oil pressure or volt gauges, just fuel and temperature, speedometer and tachometer.
Displays: There's a variety of dash electronics, from an LCD electronic digital speedometer and electronic analog fuel gauge in the base model to the premium analog instrumentation with mechanical oil pressure, water temperature and amp gauges and tachometer, and digital speedometer and trip odometer.
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