If the vehicle runs for a minute, there should be
fuel pressure there as well.
Not exact matches
«
There is enormous
pressure when a missile reenters the atmosphere... If (electrical) circuits break and a trigger device fails to detonate nuclear
fuel, you can imagine that only some twisted metal will fall on Alaska or Hawaii, even if North Korea fires missiles at them,» said Kim Dong - yub, an analyst at Seoul's Institute for Far Eastern Studies.
Between rising oil prices and ongoing concerns over climate change,
there is growing
pressure on the global shipping industry to cut its
fuel consumption.
But what does the future look like for fossil
fuels in a world where
there is increasing
pressure to keep them in the ground?
Unless, of course,
there was a major disaster that rapidly buried all sorts of plant and animal life under extreme
pressure, in which case science would allow for fossil
fuels to develop in such a circu.mstance (as evidenced in the Mt. St Helens eruption)... but said disaster never occured in the bible, did it?
But New York is the only state with such a moratorium, and
there is increasing
pressure to convert trucking fleets to natural gas, which burns cleaner than diesel
fuel.
From what I have seen
there must be damage to the high
pressure fuel pump.
There s no pumps in this model by design, it is said that the high
pressure pump will suck the
fuel by creating vacuum in the feed line.
If
there is metal in the High
Pressure Fuel Pump, give VWofA a call and see if they can help you out at all.
EDIT: (Because I was asked by «anonymous»):
There SHOULD be
fuel pressure just by turning on the key.
As
fuel system is concerned, the
fuel pump activates, and
there is some
pressure in the line, as the
fuel port on the injector rail squirts
fuel when pressed with a screwdriver.
Fuel and ignition are controlled by a precision Motec management system that also has a data - logging facility, and there are HKS iridium spark plugs and a high - pressure fuel p
Fuel and ignition are controlled by a precision Motec management system that also has a data - logging facility, and
there are HKS iridium spark plugs and a high -
pressure fuel p
fuel pump.
If a vehicle struggles with hot starts but is fine with cold starts, it indicates that
there is a lack of
fuel pressure in the
fuel lines.
Inside
there's a trio of new dials on the top of the dash — for oil
pressure,
fuel pressure and boost
pressure — plus Shelby embroidered headrests and floor mats.
I dare to say that if
there was even the slightest amount of air in a
fuel line, gasoline would explode at those kind of
pressures.
There is an option in my ecu to disable all
fuel injection below a certain manifold
pressure but if you set the threshold too high, it will cause continuous misfiring when you lift off the throttle.
Other than the rough idle and hard starting
there's no problem, the engine has plenty of power at high rpms and doesn't seem to be misfiring, both of which I think it would have problems with if the
fuel pump wasn't providing sufficient
pressure or volume.
Some Examples: Air filter clogged Exhaust leak plugged cat clogged
fuel injector malfunctioning
fuel pressure regulator clogged
fuel filter malfunctioning
fuel pump spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil Vacuum leak dirty throttle body malfunctioning fast idle thermo valve (similar to vacuum leak) low oil (unless
there is an oil level sensor) belts gaskets seals rings low compression bearing damage (rod knock) Broken cam rocker fell / broke off broken valve spring stuck valve critical engine damage (windowed the block) wiring, fuses, relays starting system - ignition switch, starter, relay Cooling system - clogs, leaks, flow (may throw a code if you overheat) transmission clutch (es) driveshaft, differential, axles brakes suspension tires hvac lights gauges
I'm suggesting you have the
fuel pressure checked while running to figure out if
there is a problem with your
fuel pump.
I can only guess that
there had been problems with the power to the
fuel pump, which my checking of the fuses and relays had fixed, but that the
pressure in the
fuel line had gone down to an extent where it needed more time with the pump on to get back to a level that could start the car.
Normally it needs to be check with
pressure indicator but still you can check if
fuel exist in the
pressure line (
there should be a small valve similar to the tire valves).
There are three warning lights on the dashboard which is low engine
pressure oil,
fuel injection system failure and the power steering warning light is on also.
Typically though you will want to look at things which will have a drastic impact on what you are measuring, I would place
fuel and air
pressure / volume up
there as two things which need to have a close eye kept on.
It can also mean
there is less
fuel than usual such as a weak
fuel pressure, dirty
fuel injectors, bad O2 giving computer a bad reading so
fuel is lessened, bad engine coolant temperature sensor giving computer a hot reading so
fuel is lessened.
Hi
There, It sounds like you may have a dirty or faulty idle air control valve or potentially a bad
fuel pressure regulator or
fuel pump.
The P2294 code indicates that
there is a problem with high -
pressure fuel regulator circuit.
There are a number of things that may cause the car to hesitate when accelerating such as low
fuel pressure, a dirty or...
Hi
There,
There are a number of things that may cause the car to hesitate when accelerating such as low
fuel pressure, a dirty or faulty mass air flow sensor, clogged or dirty
fuel injectors, a faulty throttle position sensor...
There are many causes of hard starting but illustrative ones are a faulty engine coolant temperature switch (sensor), worn spark plugs, inadequate
fuel delivery or
pressure (e.g., clogged
fuel filter), dirty
fuel injectors, contaminated or old gasoline, malfunctioning idle air control valve, poor engine compression, and so forth.
When using your Vehicle, UVO eServices automatically (or passively), including, through the use of telematics, collects and stores information about your Vehicle, such as: (i) information about your Vehicle's operation, performance and condition, including such things as diagnostic trouble codes, oil life remaining, tire
pressure,
fuel economy and odometer readings, battery use management information, battery charging history, battery deterioration information, electrical system functions; (ii) driver behavior information, which is information about how a person drives a Vehicle, such as the actual or approximate speed of your Vehicle, seat belt use, information about braking habits and information about collisions involving your Vehicle and which air bags have deployed; (iii) information about your use of the Vehicle and its features, such as whether you have paired a mobile Device with your Vehicle); (iv) the precise geographic location of your Vehicle; (v) data about remote services we make available such as remote lock / unlock, start / stop charge, parking location, climate control, charge schedules, and Vehicle status check; (vi) when
there is a request for service made; and (vii) information about the Vehicle itself (such as the Vehicle identification number (VIN), make, model, model year, selling dealer, servicing dealer, date of purchase or lease and service history)(collectively, «Vehicle Information»).
There were single - and twin - Zenith carburettor,
fuel - injection, and turbocharged engines, including both Full
Pressure Turbo (FPT), and, in European models during the early 1990s, Light
Pressure Turbos (LPT).
There are different filters for carbureted and high -
pressure fuel injected engines, so be sure you're getting the correct version.
Check the
fuel pressure on the
fuel rail and see if
there is...
There are many causes of hard starting but illustrative ones are a faulty engine coolant temperature switch (sensor), malfunctioning idle air control (IAC) valve, vacuum and EGR leaks, inadequate
fuel delivery or
pressure (clogged
fuel filter, dirty
fuel injectors), and contaminated or old gasoline.
There are several possible sources that trigger these two codes including a faulty
fuel pressure regulator, weak
fuel pump, clogged
fuel filter, faulty powertrain control module, vacuum leak, faulty injector (s), faulty oxygen sensor (s) and a faulty mass air...
Hi
there - I would check the
fuel pressure with a gauge to see what the
pressure on the
fuel rail actually is.
There are a number of things that may cause the car to hesitate (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/engine-hesitates-during-acceleration-inspection) when accelerating such as low
fuel pressure, a dirty or faulty mass air flow sensor, clogged or dirty
fuel injectors, a faulty throttle position sensor or...
Hi
There, As you know, the
fuel pressure sensor is merely a device that monitors the
fuel pressure in the
fuel injection system.
Check the
fuel pressure on the
fuel rail and see if
there is at least 30 psi.
The four circular dials are speedometer, tachometer,
fuel gauge and oil temperature — but
there's no coolant - temperature or oil -
pressure gauge.
You can easily check for
fuel pressure on the
fuel rail to rule that out but if
there is adequate
fuel pressure you have to further test the
fuel injectors to determine if...
There are a few things that may cause this to happen, such as a clogged
fuel filter, a failing
fuel pump, a restricted
fuel line or in some cases, a faulty
fuel pressure sensor.
There are no rust bubbles, major scratches, chips, etc.The 15» Rallye wheels are brand new, including the center caps, trim rings and Cooper Cobra white letter tires.All of the trim and bumpers are in good shape and are not beat up.The glass is all in good shape and the windows roll up and down easily.Interior: The interior is in good shape overall as well.The seat covers look good and do not have any tears, holes, etc.The carpet looks to be in decent shape.The original dash pad has some cracks and a previous owner has put a carpeted dash cover on top of the dash pad.The headliner is in good shape but the sail panels are a little loose.The original speedometer and tachometer work, as well as the fuel gauge, but there is an aftermarket oil pressure and water temperature gauge mounted under the dash.The head lights, tail lights and brake lights all work, but the turn signals do not work.The windshield wipers work like they are supposed to as well.The B&M shifter works well and is easy to get in and out of gear.Drivetrain: The engine is a very strong running 340 small block that's had some work done t
There are no rust bubbles, major scratches, chips, etc.The 15» Rallye wheels are brand new, including the center caps, trim rings and Cooper Cobra white letter tires.All of the trim and bumpers are in good shape and are not beat up.The glass is all in good shape and the windows roll up and down easily.Interior: The interior is in good shape overall as well.The seat covers look good and do not have any tears, holes, etc.The carpet looks to be in decent shape.The original dash pad has some cracks and a previous owner has put a carpeted dash cover on top of the dash pad.The headliner is in good shape but the sail panels are a little loose.The original speedometer and tachometer work, as well as the
fuel gauge, but
there is an aftermarket oil pressure and water temperature gauge mounted under the dash.The head lights, tail lights and brake lights all work, but the turn signals do not work.The windshield wipers work like they are supposed to as well.The B&M shifter works well and is easy to get in and out of gear.Drivetrain: The engine is a very strong running 340 small block that's had some work done t
there is an aftermarket oil
pressure and water temperature gauge mounted under the dash.The head lights, tail lights and brake lights all work, but the turn signals do not work.The windshield wipers work like they are supposed to as well.The B&M shifter works well and is easy to get in and out of gear.Drivetrain: The engine is a very strong running 340 small block that's had some work done to it.
It seems that despite adopting: — a lithium - ion battery; — a «high -
pressure direct
fuel injection that replaced the less - efficient multi-port injection type»; — a new Hydra - Matic six - speed automatic transmission that replaces the conventional four speed used previously; — a «new BAS design [that is supposed to] ha [ve] noteworthy
fuel economy gains compared to the earlier system»; — all those «talks» of «advancements gained from production of multiple generations of hybrid technology as well as development of the Chevy Volt»; — and significantly less horsepower and oomph than an Accord hybrid that was first debuted 7 years ago,
there are actually little to show for any significant advancement in
fuel economy from GM's latest hybrid.
When we get a problem such as this, we often hook up a
fuel pressure gauge and tape the dial to the windshield, then drive the vehicle until it quits, and note whether
there is
fuel pressure when it does.
There will be plenty of
fuel available: the SRT Demon carries dual
fuel pumps (versus one pump in the Challenger SRT Hellcat), larger
fuel injectors and
fuel lines that handle higher
pressures.
If
there are no trouble codes, have a
fuel -
pressure and volume test performed, and perhaps a compression test while you're at it.
There is standard information such as odometer,
fuel range, and economy, but vehicle information such as oil life remaining and tire
pressure can also be displayed.
There are no oil
pressure or volt gauges, just
fuel and temperature, speedometer and tachometer.
Displays:
There's a variety of dash electronics, from an LCD electronic digital speedometer and electronic analog
fuel gauge in the base model to the premium analog instrumentation with mechanical oil
pressure, water temperature and amp gauges and tachometer, and digital speedometer and trip odometer.