Sentences with phrase «guinea pig feet»

Bumblefoot, a disease that affects guinea pig feet, can cause serious infections.

Not exact matches

Experimental animal studies have shown that Borrelia burgdorferi, the agent of Lyme borreliosis, consistently establishes persistent infections in a variety of immunocompetent hosts, including laboratory mice [1], white - footed mice (Peromyscus leucopus)[2], [3], [4], rats [5], hamsters [6], guinea pigs [7], gerbils [8], dogs [9], and nonhuman primates, including rhesus macaques (Macaca mulatta)[10] and baboons (Papio spp.)[11].
A guinea pig's nails grow constantly and will eventually turn long and grow inwards, causing harm to their feet.
Once you remove your guinea pig from the heat and sun, mist your guinea pig with cool water, gently bathe her in cool water, or apply rubbing alcohol to her foot pads.
A single guinea pig, for example, needs a minimum of 2 cubic feet in order to be happy and healthy.
Keep in mind that compared to the rest of the guinea pig, your guinea pig's legs and feet are very small to be carrying all of that weight and an appropriate surface will keep them much more comfortable.
Each additional guinea pig in the environment should add a minimum size of 1.5 square feet to the habitat size, which means the cage for 3 guinea pigs should be 9 square feet, 4 guinea pigs should have 10.5 square feet and so on.
Traditional stainless - steel cat cages will work; aquariums, however, provide poor ventilation, and mesh or wire - floor cages hurt guinea pigs» tender feet.
While it might seem like a good idea to have wire floors so that pet waste falls through and your pet doesn't live next to their poop, serious damage can occur to a guinea pig's feet if they have to stand on wire all of the time.
The cage should be at least four square feet per guinea pig.
Also, soft carefresh ® custom Rabbit & Guinea Pig bedding is more comfortable for guinea pigs, which have sensitiveGuinea Pig bedding is more comfortable for guinea pigs, which have sensitiveguinea pigs, which have sensitive feet.
One of the most common problems in guinea pigs is bumblefoot, where the foot becomes swollen due to a bacterial infection, often caused by dirty bedding.
Any housing for guinea pigs should have solid bottoms because their feet can get severely injured and infected with wire flooring.
As a rule of thumb, you'll need to provide a minimum of four square feet of cage space per guinea pig — but please try to get as large a cage as possible.
-- Solid - bottom cage with wire cover or plastic - bottom «tub» cage (minimum four square feet of cage space per pig)-- Guinea pig pellets — Aspen or hardwood shavings — Grass hay — Bricks, rocks, cardboard boxes, plastic pipes and other appropriate toys — Medium flower pot or covered sleeping box — Brush and comb for grooming — Attachable water bottle with drinking tube — Unpainted, untreated piece of wood or safe chew toy
At the least, one guinea pig should be housed in a two foot by three foot cage (with a solid bottom, please!).
Exercise wheels result in damaged backs, injured feet, and generally unhealthy Guinea pigs.
Guinea pig cams, rabbit cams and black - footed ferret cams hit the Internet years ago, but this is the first I've heard of a hamster cam (if anyone knows of other hamster cams, please comment!).
The floor should be solid to avoid damage to your guinea pig's feet.
Many guinea pigs like to place their front feet on the rim of their food bowl when they eat, and this design will lessen the chances that the bowl (and your pig!)
A guinea pig that has a rough hair coat, is off food, has diarrhea, is reluctant to walk, perhaps seems painful, has swollen feet or joints, or has hemorrhages and ulcers on its gums or skin is likely to be deficient in vitamin C.
One guinea pig groomed itself while having its feet soaked and the epsom salt solution severely injured the eye!
Guinea pigs should be given the largest cage available, preferably with a solid bottom as wire bottomed cages can cause foot and leg injuries as well as prevent the ingestion of night feces.
Such a door is particularly suited for rabbits, chinchillas, and perhaps guinea pigs, but it should be made of material safe for the pet's feet.
For each additional guinea pig, increase the surface area by two square feet.
When your ferret stops mischievously stealing your shoes, when your bunny stops thumping his foot in displeasure about not being fed, when your guinea pig stops fastidiously grooming, when your parrot can no longer scream loudly because you've left the room, or when your chameleon lizard can no longer climb branches to a favorite basking spot, it's time to stop.
I think I'm approaching «pretty good house» status with my own house serving as self - directed building science guinea pig, having logged performance data on my house HVAC and finding it only needed one ton of cooling over one hour of the hottest part of one day for 1860 square feet earlier this week.
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