I feel as though they're trying to avoid looking at the car properly maybe because they know they're responsible and scared maybe they blew
the head gasket which is an expensive job.
Not exact matches
A failing
head gasket might also be leaking oil out of the block,
which could explain a large loss of oil without an equal gain in the coolant level.
Their fix to this is a coolant conditioner that contains stop leak,
which means they know the problem is already done to the
head gaskets and they're putting a band - aid on the problem.
The car is not really exhibiting the classic signs of a blown
head gasket (blue smoke, coolant in oil etc),
which is part of what makes this a puzzle.
If you can't see any obvious signs of leaks, or steam coming from anywhere if you run the engine, a likely cause is a cracked cylinder
head gasket,
which is letting the coolant into the cylinders and out of the tail pipe as steam.
Oil in the coolant can foul the temp sensor,
which would also be a sign of a bad
head gasket.
And to think of all those Offy Indy engines and Testa Fissa Alfas in
which the block and
head were one piece to prevent blown
head gaskets.
When an engine overheats (severely and repetitively) it can cause the block and / or
head to warp
which is a bigger problem
which can cause the
head gasket to blow.
If it has a two week - old chocolate milk look, the coolant is going into the oil,
which means the
head gasket (s) are bad.
You would be talking adding lot more water in the mix to even have any adverse affects (blown
head gasket and such), than just a little bit of humidity
which would most likely evaporate at running temperature anyway.
You can do a compression test to check for
head gasket failure,
which involves removing each spark plug in turn and replacing it with a gauge that reads the amount of compression in the cylinder - if the
head gasket is blown, one or two will be well below the others.
It was quite undeserved writes Paul Ponsel / MGA — Buyers Guide / Bond's 007 — Michael Worthington - Williams tells the story of the Bond car only seven examples of
which were made between 1922 and 1928 / Magic MGA — Brian Heath tries out the car that broke the mould for MG — the MGA /
Head Gaskets — Workshop / Treasures in Store — Michael Ware continues his photographic tour of the Science Museum's reserve collection at Wroughton / Treasures in Store — The Science Museum's Reserve Collection - Part Two
Extreme temperatures lead to warped
heads which will in turn lead to a blown
gasket.
When an overheating issue is caused by a blown
head gasket, the primary failure
which occurred causing this is when combustion gasses leak into the coolant passages (usually coolant is leaking into the cylinder at the same time).
Usually an overheated engine can cause the
head to warp,
which can cause a
head gasket failure.
Sometimes catastrophic
head failures don't contaminate the oil (
which does indeed produce a frothy substance as you describe); the
head could be cracked from the outside into a coolant passage, or, rarely and usually only in poorly manufactured or improperly installed
gaskets, the
head gasket can blow outward from a coolant passage.
It must be the
head -
gasket which I figured but was hoping it wasn't since it is the most expensive thing as far as overheating cars go, and it also didn't follow the normal signs of a
head gasket (i.e. white smoke or milky dipstick).
Probably the most common cause of that is a
head gasket with a leak between the two,
which could be caused by high compression / detonation (there are several possible causes for that including incorrect ignition timing, low octane gasoline), an engine overheat, uneven
head bolt torques and / or a defective
head gasket.
They found the exhaust manifold cracked, leading to the blown
head gasket (
which was also not properly fixed earlier).
However in this particular motor,
which is notorius for blown
head gaskets and lower intake manifold
gasket leaks, allowing coolant into the combustion chamber I would take a look at these first, and in order.
This is the second time this has happened since I replaced my
head gaskets last September so I'm worried if I didn't seal it right (as there might have been minor warpage on one of the V6 deck sides but very minimal just outside the factory advised threshold,
which I guess is conservative) so I may be leaking oil into one or more combustion chambers.
I've done my research and everything points to a blown
head gasket,
which would make sense, but the engine was recently replaced and none of the other signs are showing.
On its last major service -
which was early this year - the oil was a suspicious colour
which the guy said can warn of
head gasket failure, but given the treatment it's had, he figured it was more likely to just be residual moisture that hadn't been given a chance to cook off.
the
head gaskets,
which are layered stainless steel painted black, were all in one piece although the layers were flaking apart,
which is normal.
If you want to tell if it's a
head gasket leak for sure, get a test kit
which tests for hydrocarbons in the coolant.
Best guess based on your explanation: First the water pump quit / died, then engine overheated as a result and it remained running overly - hot for sometime thereafter,
which (likely) led to
head gasket failure,
which resulted with coolant in the oil and the performance symptoms.
I would also have the mechanic check for a blown
head gasket (
which would cause the uneven running), and to make sure nothing under the vehicle is dragging.
The following morning, I received a call from the service advisor, stating that I had a
head gasket problem
which was causing my coolant to slowly leak and sometimes produced steam from the hot engine, and that they need to be replaced.
I have previously owned a foreign car
which has basically nickled and dimed me to death replacing
head gaskets twice.
That engine had a problem with cylinder
head bolts breaking,
which could cause the
head gaskets to leak.
There is a common problem that this engine has
which is a
head gasket.
The cast iron manifolds feature saw cuts along their cylinder
head mounting flange,
which split the flange into three separate sections on the V6 and four separate sections on the V8s, allowing each section to move under extreme hot - cold temperature fluctuations to virtually eliminate movement of the exhaust manifold
gaskets.
The main differences are pistons, rods, camshaft,
head gasket, intake manifold, and exhaust manifolds
which are PDN rather than P2M)