Sentences with phrase «if ecu»

If the ECU has control over the fuel lines, then it is referred to as an Electronic Engine Management System (EEMS).

I don't know if the ECU is reporting what it's commanding, or what it's detecting.

If your ECU is OEM, you'll most likely not be able to do this.

if the ECU is bad, then it will continue to misfire and lead to more problems.

As in, if the ECU doesn't get any voltage from the knock sensor, it will just use regular timing?

Toyota has not said if this ECU problem is in any way related to the sudden unintended acceleration issue, but it doesn't appear to be, since it has the opposite effect.

Probably you can take the vehicle to workshop to check if the ECU can be reflashed.

If the ECU has no valid information about the engine temperature (due to a damaged sensor) the fuel mixture during engine start gets calculated incorrectly.

Just imagine if ECU's special teams unit hadn't been pretty good!

Not exact matches

If you or someone you know is an ECU student, alum, faculty, staff or fan of ECU, this is the hot sauce for them!

If Scottie Montgomery and ECU don't turn things around quickly, I might have to rename it Ruffin McNeill Territory.

«If the committee is grading each of your non-conference opponents, you need those games against BYU and schools like ECU, Houston, and Tulsa,» Ausberry said.

As a note, the ECU may put the engine into a «safe mode» if it doesn't have or doesn't like certain sensor readings, meaning that you'll get lower performance and / or efficiency.

Although if you are good at electronics / soldering and are sure the ECU is at fault you can open the ECU and follow the PCB trace to work out what components control the relay, usually a fault like this is caused by a faulty Mosfet which is a 3 pin device.

If nobody is sitting on the seat and you put the seat belt, then the airbag ECU might get confused and that could be the reason for error

If you purchase a second hand ECU it may need to be programmed, some will require physically swapping a chip, some may just need the keys programming.

If the sensor is lazy or accumulates «drift» the ECU might miscalculate the load and shift gears when things aren't so ideal.

A Stage 1 ECU remap, activated via a Bluefin handset (which allows the owner to apply the power upgrade as well as remove it if needed) costs # 455 including VAT.

It would help if we had the engine codes and the two ecu types (EDC15 / 16, Med7 / 9 ect) and the fault codes that are present but here goes:

Get a decent tuner to delete the present fault codes in the engine ecu, I say decent tuner because there are many ways to delete fault codes in the firmware file and you don't want to end up with the ecu not reporting any fault at all as damage may occur if you don't know about them and diagnosing faults would be a nightmare.

It would help if we had the engine codes and the two ecu types (EDC15 / 16, Med7 / 9 ect) and the fault codes that are present but here goes: It sounds like the engine was swapped complete with the correct engine wiring loom for that engine and the correct ecu for that engine has then been unlocked (had the immobiliser removed).

So for anyone with experience with VAG vehicles and ecu tuning this is a very easy task if you know your way around the flash file.

It's reasonably safe (but slightly less so) to say that if the car has a catalytic converter, it probably has electronic ECU with fuel injection, and thus a rev limiter.

If it was someone else, they may have installed a chip or had the ECU re-flashed to take advantage of the increased airflow.

I'm wondering if one of the sensors is reporting incorrectly, and the ECU is dumping fuel and pulling timing.

These could be related to a new turbo if it was sized differently from the old one and the ECU wasn't correctly reflashed.

If gunge builds up on the butterfly valve, it can restrict the air required for a smooth idle when the butterfly is closed, so the engine ECU needs to open the Idle Air Valve more that it thinks it should have to and you get into a cycle of...

Pull out the plug from one of the coil packs and see if it is getting power, has a good ground, and has some kind of signal coming from the ECU.

The next thing we're going to do is replace the ECU with the one from a friend's crashed Hornet and check if it's actually the ECU that is faulty.

However if everything is truly fine, this could mean a faulty ECU.

But if that's not quite enough, official Ford tuner Mountune will fit a cast alloy inlet duct, high - flow air filter, larger alloy intercooler and an ECU recalibration, which lifts power and torque to 271bhp and 295 lb ft, respectively.

Some remote locking have rolling codes and if you operate the remote fob enough times out of range of the car it will lose sync with the on board ecu.

If it resolves your issue, then you can choose between using the junkyard ECU or looking into whether your old ECU is still under warranty (ECU's often have an extended separate warranty longer than the car's, mandated by the government).

Sometimes the ECU turns off the engine if the battery is non present.

If you reflash the ECU to ignore this error, you won't have to worry about it ever again.

On such an old car, there may not even be a trouble code for faulty temperature sensor, or if there is, the ECU may be dumb enough not to realize the sensor is faulty when it shows continuously cold engine.

If your lamda probe is covered with sooty deposits it could be fooling the ECU to think the car is running lean.

The reason the other lights come on, is that the ECU recognizes that these items may fail if the battery is not fully charged.

If someone else had been driving the car for a while, or multiple people drive the same car, the ECU will expect certain patterns and agressiveness, which can lead to a jerky experience if it assumes incorrectlIf someone else had been driving the car for a while, or multiple people drive the same car, the ECU will expect certain patterns and agressiveness, which can lead to a jerky experience if it assumes incorrectlif it assumes incorrectly.

As for the wonky transmission: If you haven't changed your transmission fluid / filter in a while, the solenoids that facilitate gears shifts can get «gummed up,» preventing them from reacting quickly to shift requests from the ECU (engine control unit).

If you're talking about a regular 12V battery vehicle, then the ECU is likely to work from 7V until 14V with no problem.

If a clogged cat, clogged injectors, bad ECU or other major issue was there before, it may still be there.

There is an option in my ecu to disable all fuel injection below a certain manifold pressure but if you set the threshold too high, it will cause continuous misfiring when you lift off the throttle.

Yes, it lacks the reliability of differential signal lines, but if your device is placed near the ECU, this does not matter.

I would advise tracing the wiring all the way back to the ECU if possible to check for any damage or suspect areas.

Get an ECU remap, or if you don't have a Flashable ECU, get a piggyback system or custom ECU installed and programmed with a performance map.

If you replace the ECU along with the transmission, again there is a problem.

If you go for 1.6 you could get ECU and harness too.

Worth a mention though that if it's a vent - to - atmosphere dump valve that those engines really don't like those as the ECU expects the gasses to be recirculated and you can end up with fueling issuses

If so could the bad module have shorted my engine ecu?