Sentences with phrase «ignition relay»

You need to check ignition relay and to change it, if necessary.

Either the ignition relay is damaged or the starter relay or starter is broken.

Common signs of a damaged or broken ignition relay include a low / dead battery, the car stalling or not starting, or loss of power to the dash lights.

When the engine continues running after turning off the ignition switch, it typically is due to a failure of the ignition switch, ignition relay or the ignition lock cylinder.

Based on what you're describing, it's quite possible that you have a damaged ignition switch or faulty ignition relay.

If the clicking noise is coming as soon as you turn the key over to the start position, this is likely a starter relay or ignition relay fault as opposed to a mechanical issue with the starter.

It's also common with early 2000 GMC's for ignition relay's to...

Not exact matches

The signal in the chip is relayed to the transceiver in the ignition so you can fire up the engine.

Yesteryears (and nowadays on some simpler car models) the key was directly coupled to the ignition and starter engine (via relays etc).

I have changed the battery, fuel pump, fuel relay (the one that mounts near the hood latch), spark plugs, ignition coil, distributor cap and rotor button, and the electronic portion of the ignition switch.

Now your car shows no sign whatever of having any electrical power to the passenger compartment, the lights don't function, the dash indicators don't function, the ignition switch doesn't energize the starter relay or solenoid, but you can crank the car by triggering the solenoid with a screwdriver?

There are new HT leads, ignition coil pack, fuel pump and relay.

the ignition coil pin 1 and other sensors pull power from the efi relay.

The ignition wires are generally only intended to power the ignition - if you want to run anything else you are better off taking an appropriate feed from the fuse box, or a relayed feed from the battery, depending on the power draw of the intended application.

If you will be needing lots of power then use the ignition wire to switch a relay with battery power, not to provide power itself.

it does sound like the relay is bad the voltage drop on the ignition wire is weird though.

There is a brown wire that comes from the ignition, when the key is in the «on» position this brown wire gives 12.6 v to the starter relay, when I try to start the engine, the brown wire only supplies ~ 8ish volts to the starter relay, there is also a black wire the goes to the starter relay...

When I let the car sit for two or three days it does not want to start when turning the ignition (No cranking noises at all or spinning noise, the only noise is all the hydraulic pumps and relays tick).

When you turn the ignition off, the positive trigger to pin 86 on your relay turns into ground due to other loads being present on that same circuit.

With the ignition on (engine off) check for battery voltage at the switched battery feed to the relay and the relay control circuit.

Some Examples: Air filter clogged Exhaust leak plugged cat clogged fuel injector malfunctioning fuel pressure regulator clogged fuel filter malfunctioning fuel pump spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil Vacuum leak dirty throttle body malfunctioning fast idle thermo valve (similar to vacuum leak) low oil (unless there is an oil level sensor) belts gaskets seals rings low compression bearing damage (rod knock) Broken cam rocker fell / broke off broken valve spring stuck valve critical engine damage (windowed the block) wiring, fuses, relays starting system - ignition switch, starter, relay Cooling system - clogs, leaks, flow (may throw a code if you overheat) transmission clutch (es) driveshaft, differential, axles brakes suspension tires hvac lights gauges

Independent of the starter motor, the fuel pump relay should also «click» when the key in the ignition is turned to the «On» position:

2 - ignition voltage comes to the spark plugs (remove one of the s.plug caps and hold it close to a metal surface on the engine and ask your friend to crank the engine to see if spark exist) If there is no spark, refer to the car manual (ignition system wiring drawings) to see related fuse / relay / diodes.

A few things I would check are the ignition switch, the clutch / neutral safety switch, and the associated relays and...

Besides the instrument cluster, electrical harness, relays, fuses and ground wires that supply power to the cluster, the only other possibility that I can think of would be a faulty ignition cylinder connection...

Based on your question, I would start by checking your ignition or starter relay, as this is commonly the source of this type of problem.

I've made repairs totally nearly $ 4K including: Fuel injector ballast, fuel pump, double power relay, distributor cap, ignition rotor, brakes, master cylinder, air filter, rear shock, fuel filte

Check fuel pump and ignition fuses and relays - a hard shut - down was a clear failure of some kind.

The mechanic needs to keep in mind that a P0689 trouble code only comes about in older vehicles that are equipped with a relay to provide power to the PCM, as opposed to a fused wire directly from the ignition switch to the battery junction box to supply power to the PCM.

Front and rear wiper motor, transmission and linkage; power window motor; window regulators; power seat motor; steering column multi-function switch and individual switches for turn signal, headlamp, dimmer, wiper, washer and cruise control; clock spring / spiral cable; mirror motor switch; brake light switch; neutral safety switch; glove box light switch; courtesy light switch; cooling fan relay; air control solenoid; air regulator valve; idle air control motor; electronic ignition module; ignition coil; engine distributor including shaft, gear, bushings and modules; electronic throttle control; throttle position sensor; vehicle speed sensor; manifold absolute pressure sensor; knock sensor and barometric pressure sensor.

Ignition switch or relay switch needs replaced as to why w...

Now, when we start a modern vehicle, we have the starter, computer system, ignition system, antilock brake system, fuel pump, a dozen relays, the air - conditioning compressor and a blower motor and maybe even daytime running lights that draw amperage.

Adjust, repair, or replace defective wiring and relays in ignition, lighting, air - conditioning, and safety control systems, using electrician's tools.