In her hands, cacio e pepe gets mysterious depth from the addition of whey (leftover from Monteverde's housemade ricotta, of course); the must - order entrée is a shatteringly crunchy skate - wing «schnitzel»; and the wok gets a warm welcome into the Italian kitchen,
imparting toastiness to everything from chicken livers to strangozze (a twisty spaghetti - like noodle).