We also had an air
intake hose clamp that came loose a couple of times that caused us to visit the mechanic too many times.
First off, I had recently installed a fuel pressure gauge and had to remove the air
intake hose.
Pull off
the intake hose and look in the throttle body...
So I started questioning whether there was actually fluid coming through
the intake hose from the reservoir but there was (there was no cloggage in
the intake hose coming out of the firewall, i ran a smaller hose through it and it went through no problem).
I'm leaning towards number three, and thinking that I could check this by pulling
the intake hose and trying to spin the compressor — I assume it should spin easily and keeping going.
Wild guess here: A collapsing
intake hose?
Two leaks were detected, the first was in the air
intake hose, and the was coming from the throttle body.
That's not all, the window kit and
intake hose are included to help make installation as easy as possible.
With the engine only consuming a tiny bit of this air, the pressure builds up in
the intake hoses and slows down the compressor wheel.
Not exact matches
Two hours later a much cleaner truck — an oil carrier — pulls up to the other end of the plant, and the driver attaches a
hose to the truck's
intake valve.
After pieces of the
hose were removed from the
intakes of the two pumps after the incident, neither pump was tested to make sure it was working properly and no other pieces of
hose were stuck in the piping or pump, the NRC said.
Sometimes conferences / edcamps / professional development days feel like learning through a fire
hose, but the value is that within the overwhelming amount of
intake, usable information comes forth for future greatness.
I've searched high and low for a video, an image, a photo of an
intake vacuum pcv valve
hose somewhere on this engine.
If it's more than 2 - 3 ounces (1 - 2 shot glasses) then you most likely have either a failed PCV
hose or a vacuum leak that causes oil to be sucked into the
intake.
I would carefully check all of the vacuum
hoses and the
intake boot for cracks or holes.
What if you crimp the
hose to the
intake manifold does the car still hard / no start?
Prior to that I changed the radiator
hose and the
intake manifold gaskets (because it was leaking coolant).
While inspecting closer I found this piece connected to the PCV
hose near my throttle body that inserts into the air
intake manifold.
But check all Vacuum
hoses on eng especially on computer control EGR control Valve A big leak or blown
hose will cause the DPE code, Plus if
hose blown (melted) will cause stalling, rough idle and smell through the air
intake duct..
added information, the car starts up but in order for it to keep running the accelerator has to be pushed over and over, the maf sensor was replaced and installed in correct direction, I also tried searching for vacuum leaks but there was no change in rpm, could the
hoses to the
intake boot be in wrong position?
So the upper
intake manifold and gasket were replaced along with some vacuum
hoses.
The $ 6199.99 kit comes with Roush - designed upper and lower
intake manifolds, fuel charging assembly, intercooler system, high - flow air induction system, bolt - on pulley, and all required fasteners, wiring, brackets,
hoses and clamps.
The thermostat and a blown coolant
hose running under the
intake manifold turned out to be the problem.
All of the rubber components of the fuel system like vacuum
hoses and
intake manifolds that you mount the carburetors to are made of rubber.
If it still stalls, reconnect the IAC
hose and clean out the air
intake pathway, check air filter, etc..
I had no idea what OBD1.5 was until I bought my 95 Explorer Conversion Van but I guess I lucked out because it has saved me countless hours of diagnostic time tracking down weird problems like a leaking injector
hose (inside the bread loaf upper
intake manifold).
I did spray down the
intake and all the vacuum
hoses with no luck.
Typical sources of unmetered air include disconnected vacuum lines, perished
hoses that have holes or cracks in them, compromised
intake manifold gaskets and cracked air filter housings.
This weekend, I replaced the intercooler
hose (y - shaped upset the intercooler), the throttle body
hose and the blowoff valve
hose (routes the over boost back to the
intake when the throttle closes suddenly).
There is a poor - man's boost - leak test that involves plugging the
intake (a pint - sized paint can works well I think), pulling the vacuum reference line to the bypass valve (the small
hose), blowing into it, and then covering it with your thumb.
Hey charles thanks for the video, i just recently bought a 2009 gli tsi 2.0 and on the way home the pcv
hose blew off on the
intake end and started to cause alot of problems, there are no leaks but alot of rough idle, surging and miss fires.
As can be seen in the picture below, my master cylinder has an
intake nozzle that the rubber
hose gets clamped onto.
Also check all the vacuum
hoses that are attached to the
intake.
(same day)- Noticed the PCV valve
hose was broken from the back of the engine, so I connected it to the
intake and car ran ok, = Car started fine
Remove the two (2) vacuum taps and the positive crankcase ventilation
hose from the upper
intake manifold.
Check all of the
hoses to the
intake system and make sure that the clamps are tight.
Hi - I suspect your rough idling is an air leak (loose
hose or crack in the air
intake), or dirty idle air control valve.
I would check the coolant reservoir to verify its full, if its low look for leaks around the water pump, radiator,
hoses and around the
intake as coolant runs through certain parts of it.
Check carefully under the hood to be sure there are no air large air leaks in the
intake system, such as the big boot at the throttle body or any other large vacuum
hoses.
The purge valve is mounted on the engine and you will see
hose connections from the valve to the
intake manifold as well as a wire harness connection.
I would also recommend checking the
intake manifold as well for missing vacuum
hoses.
It may be a vacuum leak in one of the
hoses or in the
intake manifold.
A dirty throttle body (which you have already checked), a dirty idle air control valve, a failed throttle position sensor, an air leak in the
intake (loose or split
hose,...
IN THE PRESENCE OF OIL AND HEAT, THE BRAKE BOOSTER VACUUM
HOSE COULD SWELL AND LOOSEN FROM THE
INTAKE MANIFOLD.
• Radiator
hoses can perish, especially the ones under the
intake manifolds.
Engine coolant can leak externally through a
hose, radiator, water pump, etc. or internally due to a leaking head gasket and sometimes a leaking
intake manifold gasket depending on the engine design.
Many service records including front brakes and rotors at 33887 miles, 40k major service at 33887 miles, new battery, new
intake flapper controller, warm up valve at 33265, 30k service at 29847 miles (along with alternator and a / c belts, «s
hose» and oil cooler lines replaced, trans shaft seals replaced), and tires and lof, and right side top locking motor done @ 30310.00.
includes: High quality cast aluminum
intake manifolds (L / R), Genuine Toyota - Japan AE111 20V Individual Throttle Bodies (48 mm butterflies), large cast runners and
intake manifold plenum, necessary gaskets, heat shields, couplings,
hose, mounting brackets, etc..
*** Must purchase 80 - 70 mm silicone
hose reducers (x2) and
hose clamps (x4) if using in conjunction with GReddy RX
Intake Manifold Spl Piping Kit, part # 13920401
Induction Large Greddy Throttle housings (awaiting first delivery from Greddy) Greddy modified steel manifolds / modified with v bands couplings & SVM support system GTX GT35 Garrett Turbo Chargers with ball bearing core assemblies & V Band Fitment Tial 44 mm external waste gates V Band Fitment Custom 80 mm down pipes Zercoated 80 mm hard pipe kit with SVM Green pipe couplers and murray
hose clamps 80 mm MAF pies with HPX MAF sensors HKS Blow off Valves GTC 102 mm Titanium Exhaust system with 102 mm GTC Y pipe fully resonated KN High flow air filter system with ram pipes & 90 mm
intakes