Sentences with phrase «intake vacuum leak»

Stalling at idle could be due to a faulty mass airflow sensor, faulty camshaft or crankshaft position sensors, worn spark plugs, wires or defective ignition coil (s), inadequate fuel delivery or pressure (clogged fuel filter, injectors, faulty fuel pump or pump circuit), contaminated or old gasoline, defective throttle position sensor, faulty idle air control valve, leaks in the EGR system, intake vacuum leaks, and so forth.

Not exact matches

If it's more than 2 - 3 ounces (1 - 2 shot glasses) then you most likely have either a failed PCV hose or a vacuum leak that causes oil to be sucked into the intake.

In the alternative you could hook up a vacuum source to the intake manifold with the car totally off and then do a totally safe and sane vacuum leak test.

But check all Vacuum hoses on eng especially on computer control EGR control Valve A big leak or blown hose will cause the DPE code, Plus if hose blown (melted) will cause stalling, rough idle and smell through the air intake duct..

added information, the car starts up but in order for it to keep running the accelerator has to be pushed over and over, the maf sensor was replaced and installed in correct direction, I also tried searching for vacuum leaks but there was no change in rpm, could the hoses to the intake boot be in wrong position?

It doesn't seem to be running rough but I'm not sure if the engine only have 1 new plug and coil is throwing off the balance and making the code for the catalytic converter show up or if its due to the catalytic converter going bad or if its the intake manifold having a vacuum leak.

They go normal around 3000 rpm, spraying around the lower intake shows a vacuum leak on the lower intake gasket.

In the course of helping my friend sort out a lean condition with his Mercedes GLK280 we have to pinpoint the source of a vacuum leak in the intake plumbing.

Since the intake manifold pressure is directly measured to calculate the intake air volume and decide the amount of fuel to inject, a vacuum leak theoretically can not contribute to a lean condition like this.

Potential vacuum leak: I can hear a steady hissing sound near the intake manifold, but it's not clear where it is coming from.

Remember you'll need new gaskets to do this or your new engine will have plenty of issues (like vacuum leaks in the intake which will allow unmetered air into the intake system, and exhaust leaks which will allow air into the exhaust track allowing for really crappy gas mileage.).

It is not unusual for the vacuum actuated portion of the petcock to fail and the owner to clip and plug the vacuum line going to the intake boot to eliminate the associated vacuum leak.

Let's assume you have already checked for small vacuum leaks in the rubber tubing on the intake manifold and replaced the PCV valve (if applicable)...

An easy way to check for the leak is to pull a vacuum line off the intake and suck a small amount (1 - 2oz) of transmission fluid into the intake via that vacuum line.

There is a poor - man's boost - leak test that involves plugging the intake (a pint - sized paint can works well I think), pulling the vacuum reference line to the bypass valve (the small hose), blowing into it, and then covering it with your thumb.

I have checked for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner sprayed a mist over all intakes but no high idle or low idle just stayed the same idle.

I would assume this means you have lost your intake manifold vacuum due to a vacuum leak.

I'm thinking you already had a vacuum leak at the intake before it popped off, which allowed your idle level to drop drastically after you did your fix.

You might also check vacuum lines and intake manifold gasket for air leaks.

The reading was very steady and didn't change after warming up, so it didn't appear to have any vacuum leaks as I read that sometimes a leak can come from the intake manifold gaskets.

Start a vacuum - leak smoking expedition by plugging up any obvious potential ports in the intake manifold, starting with the inlet to the throttle body from the air cleaner.

The intake system is known to have vacuum leaks and also coolant leaking into the intake.

There are a few reasons why gasoline would mix with engine oil, ranging from gasoline leaking inside a vacuum line or a cracked intake manifold.

Check the intake for any vacuum leaks and also the brake booster.

If everything is fine then I do a smoke test of the intake system to check for vacuum leaks.

A vacuum leak from items like a broken air intake boot, broken / disconnected vacuum lines, or a leaking intake manifold gasket can lean out the air / fuel mixture or disturb intake airflow enough to...

These engines had issues with vacuum leaks at the throttle body and intake gaskets.

It can also arise if there is a vacuum leak at the intake seal to that cylinder (cylinder No. 2 in your...

A weak idle is most often caused by vacuum leaks in the intake system.

You may need to have additional diagnosis done by a mechanic like one from YourMechanic to see if the ignition timing is correct and there is no engine vacuum leaks in the intake or vacuum lines.

Fuel related misfires can be caused by many different things such as low fuel pressure, faulty or dirty fuel injectors, a faulty O2 sensor, a dirty or failing mass air - flow sensor, a faulty or dirty idle air control valve or a vacuum or intake leak.

Those things are notorious for getting vacuum leaks on them because the tops of the engines are all made out of plastic — including the intake system.

Check carefully under the hood to be sure there are no air large air leaks in the intake system, such as the big boot at the throttle body or any other large vacuum hoses.

It may be a vacuum leak in one of the hoses or in the intake manifold.

Examples of vacuum leaks include: leaking intake manifold gasket, broken PCV valve or PCV hose, disconnected vacuum line, cracked vacuum line, ripped intake snorkel - faulty fuel injector - damaged engine computer (PCM)- low fuel pressure - leaking head gasket - low compression in the affected cylinder - valves that are out of adjustment - bad mass airflow sensor (random misfire).

Some vacuum leaks can also be originated in the intake manifold.

Here are few examples of intake or vacuum leaks:

In a more technical jargon, vacuum or intake leaks are called «unmetered air», as the air enters the intake system through a damage intake boot or other leak is not metered by the mass air flow sensor and therefore the the engine computer can not calculate the amount of fuel injected properly, causing the engine to run «lean».

Another known issue in Ford vehicles is a vacuum leak from a ripped - through rubber elbow on one of the vacuum lines at the back of the intake manifold.

An air leak anywhere between the engine intake and the air filter is usually called vacuum or Intakeintake and the air filter is usually called vacuum or IntakeIntake leak.