Not exact matches
Typically, these accounts are sold without any
loads or minimum holding periods or any
fees of any kind but as noted earlier, always check first
before buying.
A back - end
load involves paying a
fee when selling
before a certain time period, but a front - end
load requires the payment of an upfront commission.
Before investing, one should compare the annuity
fee structure with regular no -
load mutual funds.
Before using the card,
load at least $ 500 per month onto the card to avoid the monthly
fee.
You might be offered
load funds with lower annual
fees compared to similar no -
load ones, that may thus be less expensive in the long run, but if you search the offerings from the 3 fund companies I mentioned
before, you will find no -
load funds with small
fees that will beat any
load fund.
That's why we calculate returns
before any 12b - 1
fees... fund
loads or sales charges aren't included in our calculation of returns.»
Although one would expect using a professional adviser to improve an investor's performance, instead the investor pays a significant penalty... We found that
load index funds charged substantially higher
fees — even
before counting the
fees paid to the broker — than true no -
load (no 12b - 1
fee) funds.
There are a few other
fees that pop up often, and
before you invest in a particular fund, you want to be sure that you don't see the terms «front -
load» or «back - end
load.»
A modest multi-year redemption
fee (perhaps 1 % or less paid upon exit
before some number of years) might not be a bad idea for very low cost no
load bond funds.
Then welcome to the DSC, also called a back - end
load, where you're charged a hefty
fee for selling your fund
before a certain number of years, usually 6 - 7.
Imho, you would have to generate significant amount of reward eligible purchases with that additonal 50 cent points per $ 100 SPENDING to make it appear worthwhile the hassle of remembering (usually right)
before December EACH YEAR to ask Rogers / Fido (other than towards Rogers / Fido store / stuff) for your hUge cash payout as next January statement credit ONLY; thus finally getting back ~ all Fido / Rogers» 2.5 % FX
fees you loaned / paid them except FX
fees Fido / Rogers bank keeps from any purchase returns / cancels / reversals, atm cash / cash advance needs and any cash - like transactions (e.g., pre-paid
load, «lottery tickets, casino gaming chips») in «foreign currency» where you get zero / no rewards rebating them.
My problem with all those «help work exchange» sites is that I'd have to pay each and every one of their membership
fees and even then I'd probably not get my money's worth; as I remember from back
before ErasmusU started charging membership, I could send
loads and
loads of requests and still hear CRICKETS.