You'll definitely want a good
multimeter at this point, with 3 1/2 digits of precision.
If you still can't find it, throw
the multimeter at the ground, yell, grab a beer, and post an ad on craigslist for a 2007 Ford Focus!
However, when I tested with
a multimeter at the battery (accessories on), the readings seemed perfectly reasonable.
Not exact matches
Not on topic here, but get your
multimeter, start
at the switch
at the brake pedal, and follow the wires looking for the short.
To test the power coming from the brake switch, wedge it down and use any of the following - a
multimeter, a 12 volt probe (cheap), a neon or led bulb (some are designed for 12 v), a bulb from the auto store - look for one with pins, a cheap led from wherever (you'll instantly blow the LED, but you'll
at least know you have power)...
If you can get
at the starter, you might be able to attach a
multimeter probe to the signal wire (the smaller of the two wires going to the starter) to see if it gets any volts - be careful, make sure you don't have any hands / clothing / extremities anywhere near any spinny bits when trying to start it...
I'm not sure if the resistor complicates the circuit in a way that might render a simple
multimeter voltage reading
at the motor insufficient.
With my
multimeter, the battery tested
at 12.6 V while off, and between 13V and 14V while on.
There is +12 V
at the starter (tested with
multimeter, and since the engine turns over when shorting (welding!)
I was messing around with electrical loads on my 98 Mazda 626 GF 2L today and noticed that the voltage I was reading
at the battery with my
multimeter, didn't match the voltage the ECU was report via my scan tool.
When the window switch is pressed «Down» the
multimeter measures 12 Volts, so we know there is power
at the window motor switch.
I am adept
at reading blueprints and using a multitude of power and hand tools such as conduit benders, wire strippers,
multimeters, and cable testers.