If the voltage signal is positive, this indicates that the positive
multimeter probe is connected to the signal wire and negative probe is connected to earth.
If you can get at the starter, you might be able to attach
a multimeter probe to the signal wire (the smaller of the two wires going to the starter) to see if it gets any volts - be careful, make sure you don't have any hands / clothing / extremities anywhere near any spinny bits when trying to start it...
I attempted this and with the black
multimeter probe touching the black socket I touched one of the positive sockets.
Not exact matches
Besides the Fluke 88 Series V
multimeter, you also get a carrying case filled with silicone test leads, alligator clips, test
probes, an inductive RPM pick - up
probe, a temperature
probe, automotive backprobe pins, an insulation piercing
probe, and a ToolPak magnetic meter hanging kit.
To test the power coming from the brake switch, wedge it down and use any of the following - a
multimeter, a 12 volt
probe (cheap), a neon or led bulb (some are designed for 12 v), a bulb from the auto store - look for one with pins, a cheap led from wherever (you'll instantly blow the LED, but you'll at least know you have power)...
To test, set the
multimeter to voltage mode and attach its
probes to the two non-heater wires, noting which
probe is negative and which is positive.
I have a DT - 830B
multimeter, with basic
probes (sharp pointy ones).
Make sure the
multimeter doesn't indicate a negative value, you have the positive and negative
probes the wrong way around if so.
Performed testing and calibration using
multimeters and oscilloscopes on automatic flight control systems, fuel quantity
probes, compass flux valves, blade fold logic switches, wing sweep system and essential flight control and indicating systems contributing to over 20,000 mishap - free flight hours