Sentences with phrase «n't idle your engine»

Buy Green Plan your journey Check tyre pressures frequently Reduce loads and avoid the need for roof racks Don't warm up your engine before starting off Use air conditioning only when necessary Accelerate gently and keep your speed constant Use engine braking Don't idle your engine Offset your CO 2 emissions

Not exact matches

You can set the device to sound an alarm when the engine RPM exceeds a certain number, when idling longer than a certain period of time, when breaking a specified speed limit, when it senses dangerous driving on the part of the operator, when the seatbelt is not used and when reversing.

(And I do not sit with the engine idling and heat blasting, either.)

Think about like the engine of a car that in a safe haven would be in a nice, slow, idle, not stressed at all versus in your garage a car where there's somebody who has their foot all the way down on the gas pedal and so that engine is just accelerated at much higher speed than it ought to be for a car that's parked in a garage.

It's a wound of a different kind, but it still needs healing so that our «engine» doesn't have to idle so high.

The filmmaker doesn't take his foot off of the accelerator, keeping things in constant motion even in the off moment when the vehicles at the center of this particular Road Runner cartoon take a brief second or two to idle their engines.

This means the engine does not need to remain idling to run the system when it is empty, reducing fuel use and emissions considerably.

The OEM battery in my 2008 Jetta SE 2.5 L has been nearly fully discharged one month back (had insufficient surface charge after a prolonged use without the engine running, but leaving it idle for 20 minutes made the car start again), then worked fine for a few days afterwards (but without being subjected to much charge), but then was discharged again after only a quarter of the prior abuse (since it was probably not fully charged since the prior discharge, me underestimating the driving time it would take to bring the battery back to fuller life, plus possibly missing out on water, as I found out later).

This is likely the Idle Air Control Valve as has been suggested, or something in the engine isn't running perfectly, so we are talking about:

The engine does not want to rev from idle when you give it full throttle (in neutral).

When it gets down to -15 F, it'll even do a thing where it starts to idle after start, then just shuts off and I have to restart it every time when the engine is cold (second start it'll stay running as long as I don't touch the brake until it gets some heat in it).

I told this to my mechanic and he told me that my car and diesel engines don't have Idle Air Control Valve.

Then start the car, and drive back and forth several feet (using quick taps on the gas and not just idling) over and over, and let it rest at idle a few seconds before turning off the engine.

That being said, assuming there isn't a check engine light or fault codes in your ecu on your Lincoln LS, the first things you should check are the Idle Air Control Valve and the Ignition Coils.

Yesterday I went shopping and when I started my car to go home, the engine had a rough idling and eventually stalled when the transmission was in D. I didn't know...

Recently my»91 Bonneville has been having an issue with idling while stopped, which may or may not have coincided with Service Engine Soon light turning on.

You probably mean krpm, not rpm; not even big marine diesel engines idle at 1/2 - 1 rpm.

With the engine idling if you put your ear up to the speaker you will probably hear the sound, it just doesn't become noticeable until higher revs.

Autos have a torque converter which at engine idle speeds will not drive the transmission, as it is an hydraulic «clutch».

The car hasn't started around 4 times in the past week or so, (and worked after 10 - 20 minutes) and the gas has died while driving twice, as well as the engine dying while idle once in a test I did at home.

(Additional information: At idle, the engine vibrates, quite a bit, but don't know if it has something to with the problem above.)

Imagine an unsilenced Harley Davidson (come to think of it, I'm not sure I've ever heard a silenced one...) then add a touch more flatulence, a bit of idling Merlin engine and a whole lot more decibels and you have the AeroMax's barely legal exhaust note.

My truck feels like it has a misfire at idle but its not throwing any codes, the check engine light hasn't come on.

Other than the rough idle and hard starting there's no problem, the engine has plenty of power at high rpms and doesn't seem to be misfiring, both of which I think it would have problems with if the fuel pump wasn't providing sufficient pressure or volume.

In a modern car there is an idle control valve which the computer opens to increase air entering the engine so the engine does not stall.

More than one driver thought that the engine's gravelly idle sounded almost like that of a diesel, although most were not bothered by the powerplant's patter once underway.

Since it is not dependent upon engine speed for the noise (you stated the noise increased speed while the engine itself remained at idle).

They called around to a dozen or so other dealerships and ultimately came to the conclusion that the Hemi engines just do not idle well and some of them have a tendency to just shut off.

With the engine running the voltage should be higher — maybe not much higher at idle, but if you bring the engine up to a normal cruise RPM, say 2,000 or so, you should see something between 13.5 V to 14.5 V (a bit more or less isn't necessarily a problem).

But when I stop the car and let it idle, the engine has been dying (it starts right back up no problem, though, and doesn't die while moving).

The engine is bourbon - smooth at idle and makes a fantastic wail as it nears its redline, the twin turbos muting the exhaust note almost not at all.

A few times a month, the engine will not start or idle without feathering the accelerator.

I don't have corroboration or evidence on this next bit, which is just my speculation, but I suspect that there is just a stack up of various tolerances and timings in the system and gains set in the automatic idle throttle controller in the car's computer that for some engines under some conditions stack up in a way that causes the engine to shut off unpredictably.

@atraudes i missed the update, the fuel trims seem decent when the engine isn't idling roughly.

That isn't to say that the engine is flawless in the cold, as Blackwell relates: «The engine's noisy idle made my four - year - old nervous to walk behind the sputtering, idling 3 - series.»

The engine revs with an insistent shoe well into the high six - thousands, yet - and this is the extraordinary bit - it pulls with conviction and not a hint of stumble right from its 600rpm idle.

After the engine cooled down at the first start with cool engine the idle was not stable for few seconds.

If the TPS doesn't signal «idle» to the engine when the throttle body is closed, that's a problem right there.

The engine will be idling (and producing little heat) during braking, so the radiator is not overloaded.

Though the literal power band covers most of the operating RPM range, particularly in first gear (as there is no lower gear to shift down to, and no «flat spot» in which the engine does not produce any power), the effective band changes in each gear, becoming the range limited at the upper end by either the limiter, or a point roughly located between peak power and the redline where power drops off, and at the lower end the engine's idling speed.

The V - 6 offers plenty of power, and although the 273 - horsepower, 3.7 - liter engine doesn't feel very smooth at idle, it's spirited from a stop and delivers even, linear power that's competent on the highway.

It did not help with gear changing, but it disengaged automatically when the engine slowed to an idle.

This differs from a turbocharger that uses the compressor section of the turbo - compressor only during starting and, as a two - stroke engines can not naturally aspirate, and, according to SAE definitions, a two - stroke engine with a mechanically assisted compressor during idle and low throttle is considered naturally aspirated.

The SD4 is decently potent but not as refined as you might expect, with its rather gruff idle literally setting the tone for an engine note that's never what you'd call intrusive but is always present.

When the idle air control valve is not working properly, this cause a disruption in this process resulting in the engine not being able to idle properly.

My Check Engine Light is on and my truck does not idle when cold.

Despite the G550 and G63 having an Eco start / stop feature that cuts engine power at idle, there isn't much eco going on here, with fuel economy that can't break 14 mpg.

On others, first gear could be selected but while the engine was still idling the car would not move even after the gear change pedal had been pressed and released.

A newer car like your 2015 Jeep has an Idle Air Control Valve, and mass air flow sensor, which helps the engine get air when you are not pressing on the gas pedal...

The engine picks up smartly from not much over idle, and keeps surging forward at a heady rate all the way to its redline.