Sentences with phrase «normal driving rpm»

The car in not running smoothly at normal driving RPM, if I accelerate more I don't fill the jerkiness, which by the way is not continuous, but repeats regularly about avery 3 - 5 seconds, can be easily observed by driver and it is clearly more visible if the car is going up towards a hill.

Not exact matches

If I mash the gas to 50 - 75 % starting from stop lights, but still shift at the same low RPMs as if I was accelerating slowly I can consistently show a gain of 2 MPG on my daily drive over my normal driving style.

But if I just accelerate pass the normal idle RPM, it drives normal.

Shifted into drive or reverse, the rpm fluctuated consistently from normal idle to halfway below idle.

My hunch is that the lurching (when idling it's almost like «revving» but not high rpm's, from normal to low, and back) means the battery is driving the spark plugs solely (no help from the alternator) and the battery is near depletion.

To loud normal driving (at long distance terrible annoying), to soft at high rpm.

When I drive my car at normal speed of 45 mph all of a sudden the RPM revs up high and then I can not accelerate past 20 mph.

I tried driving slowly again to pick up more RPM and power steering seems back to normal.

The saddest thing is, turbo motors usually use more fuel than their n / a counterparts in normal driving... Only at very low, test - friendly engine speeds (when the turbos aren't spinning) do they actually reduce consumption, but I don't know many people who drive below 1,000 rpm.

Much of the extra torque is available down in the 1,850 - to 3,000 - rpm range, just where you need it in normal driving situations.

Starting off in normal driving I would see the tachometer needle at 5,000 RPMs sometimes and wonder if I had accidentally bumped the transmission to manual.

With the Drive Mode selector in Normal, the V8 putters smoothly around town at low rpm while returning 16 mpg in the city and 24 mpg on the highway, according to the EPA.

Those four drive modes: advanced efficiency, which ensures low - rpm gear shifts, a slower throttle and use of the powertrain's available cylinder deactivation; normal, the default setting upon start - up; dynamic, which loosens up stability control and speeds up throttle; and race — yes, race — which turns stability control off and holds on to the lowest gear possible.

A / C works amazing.Has an Underglow kit Has an Exhaust.Has a sport mode with paddle shifters.Has no Powersteering.Does run but needs work.Does leak oil but not sure from where.Does not smoke or knockAt normal temperatures you do need to keep your foot on the throttle a little when you drive it.Its needs a new belt and turns off at low rpms at normal te

[2] NORMAL (balanced driving and fuel economy) This mode leverages IMA's ample torque in the low rpm range to pursue ease of operation for everyday driving.

For the model year 1998, i.e. with deliveries commencing from the second half of 1997 onward, some of the features of the Bentley Continental T became available on the new Bentley Turbo RT, which replaced the Bentley Turbo R. With an engine achieving 400 bhp and a maximum torque of 590 lb / ft (800 Nm), attained between 2000 and 3450 rpm, the experience of driving a Bentley RT was almost outside the normal frame of reference.

We did feel that in normal Drive mode, upshifts are set a little low, occurring at about 2,300 rpm.

Handling is very nice on the CX - 7, but the tachometer likes to stay close to 2,000 rpm in normal driving conditions.