Sentences with phrase «own ignition coil»

2010 Hydauni Accent, I've already changed the spark plugs and ignition coils.

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The things that you pulled out are the ignition coils.

In a waste spark system an ignition coil has two spark plug outputs unlike every other system only having one.

I want to add also look at your ignition coil for cracking.

Each ignition coil is hooked up to two spark plugs.

I have changed the battery, fuel pump, fuel relay (the one that mounts near the hood latch), spark plugs, ignition coil, distributor cap and rotor button, and the electronic portion of the ignition switch.

The engine boasts a new head, pistons, cams, bearings, intake manifold, injectors, ignition coils, a rebalanced crankshaft, and a recalibrated engine control unit.

If you have a manual look at the ignition system or like ignition control module or ignition coils and check those for moisture.

I have only changed the oil and had to replace one cylinder ignition coil.

New ignition coils are on order and should be in by the weekend, but all signs point to a healthy engine.

Upon a trigger signal, the capacitor is discharged via the ignition coil, which can be a separate device, but can also be integrated into the CDI unit.

There are new HT leads, ignition coil pack, fuel pump and relay.

I asked for it the last time and I was told «it was the ignition coil.»

Apparently headliner issues, ignition coil problems and in my prior vehicle a heat shield issue which became a huge issue for me over time, are not exclusive to just me or bad luck.

I spent about 300 bucks on plugs, wires, cap an rotor, ignition coil, fuel filter, air filter, vacuum lines and some cleaning sprays (maf cleaner and tb cleaner).

They replaced the ignition coil again (said it was faulty).

The first thing I would check is the ignition coil.

I have no clue of it is a third bad ignition coil or if there is another issue.

Look at your wiring harness, specifically the lines going to the O2 sensors, ignition coils and other sensors (IAT, MAP and / or MAF, etc.) Look at any plastic parts that may have melted.

Supposedly the ignition coil being bad is a cause of it not starting when hot.

I was thinking that was the original culprit and not the ignition coil.

the ignition coil pin 1 and other sensors pull power from the efi relay.

That being said, assuming there isn't a check engine light or fault codes in your ecu on your Lincoln LS, the first things you should check are the Idle Air Control Valve and the Ignition Coils.

If you haven't changed your spark plugs, crumbling valve cover gaskets that leak into the spark plug wells were a common problem on the 05 - 06 VQ35DE REV - UP engines, so it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to at least pull the ignition coils and check them for oil.

You can pull the plug wires one at a time and hook up a spark tester to verify the plugs are getting juice from the ignition coil.

For those that encounter a similar situation, replacing the spark plug got the lawn mower running, but it now only starts when cold, which is (apparently) usually a problem with the ignition coil.

I'd start checking your distributor cap and rotor, test your ignition coil and wires.

Most recent gasoline cars have a direct ignition, also called coil on plug, system where each spark plug has its own ignition coil.

They towed me to a garage and they tried replacing the ignition coil and the spark plugs as they believed this to be the solution, it wasn't as the car still had no power and went through the oil again.

could it be the ignition coil?

On this model the most common cause of this symptom is failure of the ignition coil or ignition igniter.

The engine ECU powers the actuators on the vehicle, so you need to check things like: fuel pump runs when ignition key is turned to the run position, power to injectors, power to ignition coils, brake lights working.

50 years ago, when cars were simpler, your current draw may have been 1 amp for the ignition coil.

If you did old skool daytime walking dead only, you just need ignition coil and spark wiring..

The ignition coil provides high voltage to the spark plug cables and to the spark plugs.

While it could be any number of things, my issue was a failing ignition coil.

Or could moisture (it was mildly raining) have affected the connection between the ignition coils and the spark plugs?

A failed ignition coil would send raw fuel to the cat, where it would ignite and disintegrate the cat.

Charles, just re-watched your video on the ignition coil connectors.

The difference between a trembler coil and a modern ignition coil is that in a modern coil the primary current is broken only once by the contact breaker for each cycle of the piston, creating a single spark.

My theory is that I've got a weak ignition coil.

Does your car have one ignition coil per plug directly on top of the plug, or one common ignition coil?

This is question came up while trying to diagnose ignition coils unseating.

I installed a new battery, put a new ignition coil in it, and drove it home.

But if I connect that wire to the ignition coil and meassure, it reads 11.4.

Apparently the initial problem was with the ignition coils and that has been causing the problems with the catalytic converter.

I had a similar issue a few days ago, and we found out that the ignition coil had one bad terminal, and the spark plug located in that terminal, was a little wet... Give it a try!

A ignition coil has thousands of turns to generate the high voltage.

The same system as a «defective» ignition coil.