Being together still and calm with
people or other dogs teaches cohesiveness and about being a small part of something big.
Not exact matches
Words Used: Magenta: I like going is mum look the am said to at went in me here my on dad a and come up can sat for Red: we get put with go no they today was where you she he this are will as too not but likes down big it little see so looked Yellow: when came one it's make an all back day into oh out play ran do take that then there him saw his got looking of yes mother from her baby father Blue: have help here's home let need again laugh soon talked could had find end making under very were your walk girl about don't last what now goes because next than fun bag coming did
or cake run Green: always good walked know please them use want feel just left best house old their right over love still took thank you school much brother sister round another myself new some asked called made
people children away water how Mrs if I'm Mr who didn't can't after our time most Orange: man think long things wanted eat everyone two thought
dog well more I'll tree shouted us
other food through way been stop must red door sea these began boy animals never work first lots that's gave something bed may found live say night small three head town I've around every garden fast only many laughed let's suddenly told word forgot better bring push Word List Acknowledgement: www.tkp.school.nz/files/530877945427c642/folders/1/Highfrequencyhomewordlists%20(2).pdf ********************************************************************** © Suzanne Welch
Teaching Resources
Through my more than 30 years of professional training as well as my practical experience rehabilitating foster
dogs, I have considerable working knowledge of
teaching basic manners and such problem behaviors as shyness, fearfulness, sensitivity to new things and
people, aggressive behaviors, food and object guarding, out - of - control rambunctiousness, acting - up when seeing
other dogs, and the difficult age of adolescence, whether it be at around 6 months
or 2 - 3 years of age.
I'm saying that if you are basing your
dog training solely on that theory, you are not going to be able to solve lots of behavioral problems,
or training situations... and I consider you a novice who has no business
teaching dog training classes to
other people.
Simple things like
teaching dogs not to jump
or mount
people or other animals can prevent attacks later from adult
dogs.
a.) a considerable amount of exercise, including the use of treadmills and backpacks, as a way of relaxing
dogs to prepare them for counter-conditioning exercises; b.) packs of
dogs to rehabilitate unstable, fearful
or aggressive
dogs; c.) Leashes and chain collars to block jumping, whining, possessiveness, biting, aggressiveness, excessive barking, mounting, fighting, active dominance challenges; d.) Redirection to get
dogs doing alternative behaviors in play areas, obstacle courses, a pool, a feeding area, a sleeping area, and an eating / drinking area; e.) calming techniques using hand feeding; f.) a limited amount of obedience training, such as
teaching the
dogs to heel on a loose lead at the handler's side; g.) a «claw» technique, his own version of the «alpha rollover», and a pursuit technique to deal with
dogs that don't show submission to
other dogs or people; h.) «flooding» for phobias; i.) «calm / assertive» handler techniques; j.) touch and sound techniques to interrupt, correct and /
or redirect behaviors; k.) a variety of traditional manners rules, which are implemented with the «no free lunch» type of approach; l.) a variety of games and
other «mental challenges»; m.) human intervention; and n.) electric collars (not mentioned, as I recall, in the book)
a.) a considerable amount of exercise, including the use of treadmills and backpacks, as a way of relaxing
dogs to prepare them for counter-conditioning exercises b.) packs of
dogs to rehabilitate unstable, fearful
or aggressive
dogs; c.) Leashes and chain collars to block jumping, whining, possessiveness, biting, aggressiveness, excessive barking, mounting, fighting, active dominance challenges; d.) Redirection to get
dogs doing alternative behaviors in play areas, obstacle courses, a pool, a feeding area, a sleeping area, and an eating / drinking area; e.) calming techniques using hand feeding; f.) a limited amount of obedience training, such as
teaching the
dogs to heel on a loose lead at the handler's side; g.) a «claw» technique, his own version of the «alpha rollover», and a pursuit technique to deal with
dogs that don't show submission to
other dogs or people; h.) «flooding» for phobias; i.) «calm / assertive» handler techniques; j.) touch and sound techniques to interrupt, correct and /
or redirect behaviors; k.) a variety of traditional manners rules, which are implemented with the «no free lunch» type of approach; l.) a variety of games and
other «mental challenges»; m.) human intervention; and n.) electric collars (usually not mentioned in their marketing materials
or websites)
It's a miserable experience for both your
dog and the vet (
or groomer) when a muzzle is required because your
dog wasn't
taught to trust
people other than family members.
BrightDog Academy
teaches people how to train their
dog using only care based, science based
dog training methods that never require the use of prong collars, shock collars, choke chains, clickers, harsh corrections,
or any
other outdated methods of training.
A good obedience class will also
teach you how to get your pup to heel, leave
or drop an object, play with
other dogs in a friendly manner, and continue standing
or sitting calmly by your side when you walk up to another
person with a
dog instead of greeting them.
If you are looking to enroll your
dog into a training class to «socialize» him to be less fearful, less anxious,
or friendlier to
other dogs or people, please be aware that he has a nearly
or fully developed personality and at this point we need to take on an approach of intervention,
teaching better behaviors, and perhaps modifying behaviors and emotional responses.
My 8 months old gsd is very gentle with our family but when some of our relatives
or other people come he gets really aggressive and start barking, our local
dog trainer told us to use a shock collar but i do nt want to hurt him (he gets proper exercise and diet also and i gave him basic obedience training and some
taught some tricks too) help meeeeee!!!!
This is why it is best to pick a Perro de Presa Canario puppy from a reliable breeder that does not keeps the
dogs separated and away from human contact
or contact with
other animals, raising them in an environment where they are
taught with different
people, animals, and surroundings from their very first days of life.
In my experience, these types of leashes a.) tend to cause
dogs to act more aggressively and to pull hard on the leash; b.) are more likely to trigger a fight with another
dog since the
dog that is straining at the end of the leash looks like it is in attack mode; c.) tend to be purchased by lazy and irresponsible
dog owners who do not train their
dogs to obey, and who tend to spoil their
dogs, causing more aggression and bratty behavior; d.) undo most of the important aspects of your obedience training and leadership over your
dog, especially obeying around distractions and coming when called, and over time they
teach your
dog to charge after
other dogs, animals and even
people; e.) are hard to control once the
dog is at the end of the line, and can get caught in the leashes of
other dogs, increasing the potential for a biting
or attack incident; f.) do NOT cause the
dog to get more exercise on the walk; g.) can cause a
dog to run away from you, because if you accidentally drop the leash handle, many
dogs will run from the plastic handle «chasing» them from behind and that could cause your
dog to run into traffic and die; h.) have resulted in injuries to
dogs and owners.
Socializing your
dog teaches him
or her appropriate ways of interacting with
other animals and with
people.
Additional skills
taught include; watch me, no jumping (
teach your
dog not to jump up on
people), stay from a sit
or down, stand still, go to bed, leave it (how to ignore food and
other distractions), Take it (how to take things such as food and toys, gently).
This Section shall not apply to guide
dogs or service
dogs used by blind
persons, visually impaired
persons, deaf
persons, hearing impaired
persons, and
other persons with physical disabilities who have been
taught to use such
dogs at a qualified
dog guide
or service school.
Or someone to
teach better social skills with
people and
other dogs?
When I work with reactive
or aggressive
dogs, our main goal is to
teach the
dog over time to associate great things with seeing
other dogs,
or people,
or whatever their particular triggers are.
It
teaches these
dogs how to cope with the presence of environmental stressors like
other dogs, unknown
people, unfamiliar surroundings, fast moving vehicles (
or dogs on a course!)
In this seminar, we'll give you some tips and tricks that will help you
teach your
dog to walk on leash without barking and /
or lunging at
other dogs,
people, cars, etc..
Getting started with a new puppy
or rescue
dog,
teaching basic manners, resolving behavior problems (including reactivity toward
people or other dogs, anxiety, separation anxiety),
or simply helping with
dogs that are out of control
- Meeting new
people of all types, including children, men, crowds,
people wearing hats, in wheelchairs, etc. - Meeting new
dogs (do not bring your pup to areas with lots of
dogs until after 4 months)- Exposure to
other pets such as cats, horse, birds -
Teach him to enjoy his crate - Riding in the car (be sure to restrain him using a crate
or seatbelt for safety)- Being held, touched all over and in different ways, being bathed and groomed - Visiting the Vet's office, groomer, daycare, boarding kennel - Exposure to loud noises and strange objects (example — umbrella opening)- Exposure to traffic, motorcycles, bicycles, skateboards, joggers - Getting him used to being left alone for a few hours at a time
I do not allow
dogs to butt between me and any
other animal
or person; I use blocking (
taught in My Smart Puppy book) to explain things.
They will also
teach your furry friend not to jump up when greeting
people or other dogs, as well as
teaching them to not chase after individuals,
dogs and
other animals.
Gently
teach your pup your strange human ways: things like «Come» when he is having a perfectly good time doing something else; «No Jumping» when greeting
people... a totally natural way for
dogs to great EACH -
OTHER; «own» when he is neither tired
or chewing on something
or even sillier: «Don't touch» when there is a perfectly good 3 day old piece of salami
or electrical cord on the ground...