The LAP is a 2.2 L — 2,198 cc (134.1 cu in)-- version of the Ecotec, based on the Gen II block with cylinder head improvements, new camshaft design, E37 engine control module, 58X crankshaft reluctor ring, dual variable valve timing, digital crank and cam sensors, individual coil - on -
plug ignition, vented starter solenoid, new MAP sensor, new intake manifold seals, new oil filter element, a 32 - bit computer, and improved emissions performance.
- failed on -
plug ignition coil, damaged ignition coil wiring.
Coil - on -
Plug Ignition: The Gen V's individual coil - near -
plug ignition features advanced coils that are compact and mounted on the rocker covers, although they are positioned differently than on Gen IV engine.
- Coil - on -
plug ignition system.
The engines were revised for 2000 with coil - on -
plug ignition and roller follower valvegear for improved fuel economy and reduced emissions.
The engine also features twin -
plug ignition adapted from Porsche's PFM 3200 aircraft engine.
It was also one of GM's first engines to use coil - on -
plug ignition.
Later developments included direct coil - on -
plug ignition, roller lifters, and variable valve timing, which can vary intake by up to 40 ° and the exhaust by up to 50 °.
Other features include piston oil - jet capability, forged and fillet rolled crankshaft, sinter forged connecting rods, a variable - length intake manifold, twin knock control sensors and coil - on -
plug ignition.
The use of long - life spark plugs and a high - energy coil - on -
plug ignition system maximizes component life and helps reduce cost of ownership.
Not exact matches
2010 Hydauni Accent, I've already changed the spark
plugs and
ignition coils.
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Using a spark
plug is a poor test of the
ignition system.
In a waste spark system an
ignition coil has two spark
plug outputs unlike every other system only having one.
Most likely, one or more of your glow
plugs have failed (so they don't heat up the cylinders and promote
ignition when the engine is cold), or the system that turns them on at cold start is malfunctioning.
Two different mechanics have narrowed it down to the
ignition cable (spark
plug wire), but I have replaced the cable three times now over four years and I need to do it again.
Robert Bosch Corp., a subsidiary of Robert Bosch GmbH, first patented its spark
plug in 1902 to supplement a high - voltage magneto
ignition system it invented.
Each
ignition coil is hooked up to two spark
plugs.
tested the injector
plug with light bulb and a multimeter during the
ignition and startup but there is no 12 V on them (the black wire has no voltage in reference to plus or minus side of battery and the red wire has 1.2 V in reference to ground)
I have changed the battery, fuel pump, fuel relay (the one that mounts near the hood latch), spark
plugs,
ignition coil, distributor cap and rotor button, and the electronic portion of the
ignition switch.
Spark
plugs cans tell you a whole lot about your air / fuel mix and
ignition.
pump, would be a consistent flat - spot, but check for a steady stream anyway.All little things add up, so if points,
plugs and
ignition leads are not 100 %, start there.
I spent about 300 bucks on
plugs, wires, cap an rotor,
ignition coil, fuel filter, air filter, vacuum lines and some cleaning sprays (maf cleaner and tb cleaner).
Tried restarting after letting the
plugs dry, still no
ignition.
Other possible sources: Vacuum Leak Other
Ignition item (Plug Wires, Distributer, etc.) Really poor fuel Air Filter Blocked Exhaust Blockage I would start with the spark
plugs.
With your car being an 86, which was before the onslaught of distributorless
ignition systems, you will probably do just fine with either a standard spark
plug or a copper spark
plug.
It sounds like the
ignition is breaking down i.e. not enough spark getting to the
plugs.
Its not the
ignition module or the coil pack but the
plugs have no spark.
Fuel and
ignition are controlled by a precision Motec management system that also has a data - logging facility, and there are HKS iridium spark
plugs and a high - pressure fuel pump.
If you haven't changed your spark
plugs, crumbling valve cover gaskets that leak into the spark
plug wells were a common problem on the 05 - 06 VQ35DE REV - UP engines, so it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to at least pull the
ignition coils and check them for oil.
You can pull the
plug wires one at a time and hook up a spark tester to verify the
plugs are getting juice from the
ignition coil.
Sounds to me like the
plug is still in the head as normal, just with the porcelain and electrode snapped on the top end (where the
ignition line attaches).
For those that encounter a similar situation, replacing the spark
plug got the lawn mower running, but it now only starts when cold, which is (apparently) usually a problem with the
ignition coil.
Most recent gasoline cars have a direct
ignition, also called coil on
plug, system where each spark
plug has its own
ignition coil.
They towed me to a garage and they tried replacing the
ignition coil and the spark
plugs as they believed this to be the solution, it wasn't as the car still had no power and went through the oil again.
Bay of fleas and a DC to DC buck converter
plugged into the cigarette lighter controlled by
ignition.
Could I put a coil - on -
plug (direct
ignition) system in, let's say, a 1968 Ford Mustang GT?
A new engine air filter, engine oil and filter, a tire rotation, new wiper blades, front brake pads, and a tune - up that included 16 new spark
plugs (yes, the Hemi uses two
plugs per cylinder) checking the
ignition cables and PCV and checking the engine specs.
The result is an incorrect air - fuel mixture than can create a number of problems, such as hard starting, a rough idle, hesitation, misfiring or a drop in fuel economy — issues that could, without proper diagnosis, seem to have other causes, such as incorrect
ignition timing or fouled spark
plugs.
The
ignition coil provides high voltage to the spark
plug cables and to the spark
plugs.
I squeezed a decent amount of dielectric grease into my spark
plug boots and now I am wondering if it could have an effect on the
ignition.
Or could moisture (it was mildly raining) have affected the connection between the
ignition coils and the spark
plugs?
The compression
ignition part means that instead of using spark
plugs, the action of squeezing the mixture during the piston up - stroke is enough to auto - ignite the mixture — just like a diesel engine.
The brainboxes at Mazda seem to have solved the issue of compression
ignition timing, using a little device called a spark
plug.
Its spark
plugs fire during every
ignition phase of the four - stroke combustion cycle, but do so in different conditions depending on the driving requirements.
Some Examples: Air filter clogged Exhaust leak
plugged cat clogged fuel injector malfunctioning fuel pressure regulator clogged fuel filter malfunctioning fuel pump spark
plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil Vacuum leak dirty throttle body malfunctioning fast idle thermo valve (similar to vacuum leak) low oil (unless there is an oil level sensor) belts gaskets seals rings low compression bearing damage (rod knock) Broken cam rocker fell / broke off broken valve spring stuck valve critical engine damage (windowed the block) wiring, fuses, relays starting system -
ignition switch, starter, relay Cooling system - clogs, leaks, flow (may throw a code if you overheat) transmission clutch (es) driveshaft, differential, axles brakes suspension tires hvac lights gauges
Does your car have one
ignition coil per
plug directly on top of the
plug, or one common
ignition coil?
Most likely it is your
ignition system (rotor / distributor / wires /
plugs) the rain causes the spark to jump to places it shouldn't
The new Hemi, which benefits from a two -
plug - per - cylinder
ignition system, delivers power to the road with confidence - boosting precision.
I had a similar issue a few days ago, and we found out that the
ignition coil had one bad terminal, and the spark
plug located in that terminal, was a little wet... Give it a try!