I have had
plugged fuel filters do this also.
This water causes issues with rust inside your fuel tank, which will cause small metal particulates to slough off and
plug the fuel filters.
Not exact matches
I am putting on new
fuel filter and
plug wires.
Keep in mind that all work done on the engine was external: timing belt, water pump, coolant, oil, oil
filter, air
filter, spark
plugs, generator belt, etc. (Oh well, I did disconnect a
fuel line but it had nothing to do with electrical connections.)
We've compression tested it, did a carb rebuild, replaced the
plugs, and put a new
fuel filter in it without any luck.
I had also tried replacing the
fuel filter,
plugs, wires, and an o2 sensor to no avail.
I spent about 300 bucks on
plugs, wires, cap an rotor, ignition coil,
fuel filter, air
filter, vacuum lines and some cleaning sprays (maf cleaner and tb cleaner).
It is carb and had been sitting a while I've recently had the carbs cleaned and was told they were pretty well synchronized, ive also changed the
fuel filter spark
plugs and battery
Other possible sources: Vacuum Leak Other Ignition item (Plug Wires, Distributer, etc.) Really poor
fuel Air
Filter Blocked Exhaust Blockage I would start with the spark
plugs.
I've learned that it could be a
fuel injector problem, a
fuel filter problem, spark
plugs, transmission problems?
I've recently had the carbs cleaned, changed the
fuel filter,
fuel pump, and spark
plugs.
The mechanic replaced the secondary
fuel filter most likely but the primary is still clogged or the
fuel pickup could also be
plugged.
Yes the air
filter, if dirty makes the engine run rich (too much
fuel too little air) which in turn can foul the
plug resulting in a smaller spark.That causes the combustion process to be incomplete.What all this means is your 7hp engine makes 3hp.
make sure you check spark
plugs,
fuel filter, and
fuel pressure, I also know in a couple of cases oil pressure can mess you up as well.
Some Examples: Air
filter clogged Exhaust leak
plugged cat clogged
fuel injector malfunctioning
fuel pressure regulator clogged
fuel filter malfunctioning
fuel pump spark
plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil Vacuum leak dirty throttle body malfunctioning fast idle thermo valve (similar to vacuum leak) low oil (unless there is an oil level sensor) belts gaskets seals rings low compression bearing damage (rod knock) Broken cam rocker fell / broke off broken valve spring stuck valve critical engine damage (windowed the block) wiring, fuses, relays starting system - ignition switch, starter, relay Cooling system - clogs, leaks, flow (may throw a code if you overheat) transmission clutch (es) driveshaft, differential, axles brakes suspension tires hvac lights gauges
I've changed the battery, spark
plugs and the
fuel filter.
Oil, spark
plugs, wires, battery,
fuel filter, distributor, etc..
I've replaced spark
plugs, O2 sensors,
fuel filters, etc. before, so I am moderately comfortable under the hood.
Recent work: new
fuel and air
filters, spark
plugs, wires, and distributor cap, PCV valve, replaced intake manifold gaskets, catalytic converter, cleaned MAF sensor, and replaced PCM.
I've replaced the spark
plugs and wires and verified they're all sparking (so ignition coil packs are fine), and I've replaced the
fuel filter and determined that the
fuel pump is fine.
Just had a service on 8/17 that included
plugs, coils, AWD controller and
fuel filter, new Michelins PS4's 5/17, oil and
filter 8/16.
MyAMSOILGarage tracks maintenance services beyond oil and
filter changes, including air
filter, transmission, coolant,
fuel filter, spark
plug, tire and wiper service.
Other causes of hard starting are a faulty engine coolant temperature switch (sensor), worn spark
plugs, inadequate
fuel delivery or pressure (e.g., clogged
fuel filter), dirty
fuel injectors, contaminated or old gasoline, poor engine compression, and so forth.
Ignition and
fuel system issues like clogged
filters and spark
plugs worn.
There are many causes of hard starting but illustrative ones are a faulty engine coolant temperature switch (sensor), worn spark
plugs, inadequate
fuel delivery or pressure (e.g., clogged
fuel filter), dirty
fuel injectors, contaminated or old gasoline, malfunctioning idle air control valve, poor engine compression, and so forth.
From my experience, checking the
fuel filter and spark
plugs is a great place to start when trying to determine why your VW beetle is sputtering and stalling out.
If the
fuel pressure is low, then either the
fuel filter is
plugged or the
fuel pump is not producing enough
fuel flow.
Plugs, egr valve, cops,
fuel filter, etc..
Although changing the spark
plugs and O2 sensor tend to fix this type of issue, it could also be caused by dirty
fuel filter, clogged
fuel injector lines, or another electrical gremlin.
Stalling at idle could be due to a faulty mass airflow sensor, faulty camshaft or crankshaft position sensors, worn spark
plugs, wires or defective ignition coil (s), inadequate
fuel delivery or pressure (clogged
fuel filter, injectors, faulty
fuel pump or pump circuit), contaminated or old gasoline, defective throttle position sensor, faulty idle air control valve, leaks in the EGR system, intake vacuum leaks, and so forth.
I replaced the
fuel filter, spark
plugs, wires, and O2 sensor.
Hesitating cars and bucking cars often have worn out
fuel filters,
fuel pumps, oxygen sensors, EGR valves, spark
plugs, or air
filters.
Crank, cam, mass air flow, both coil packs,
fuel filter, spark
plugs and wires, and timimg belt have been changed.
Also, make sure you have your spark
plugs,
fuel filters and air
filters inspected and replaced if necessary.
Rough idle and excessive shaking of the engine could be due to a bad tank of gasoline, dirty
fuel injectors, incorrect idle speed, exhaust restrictions, vacuum leaks, incorrectly installed or damaged spark
plugs, a defective or clogged
fuel pump or
fuel filter, failing electrical components such as the ignition control module,
plug wires, coils, and spark
plugs, a defective airflow sensor, dirty oxygen sensors and other causes.
The car appears to be in the middle — well, at some stage, anyway — of an automatic - to - manual transmission conversion, and it comes with some new and or new - to - the - car parts: «NEW TUNE UP (INSPECTION II: spark
plugs,
fuel filter, brake flush, transfluid, air
filter for motor) EURO SPORT CHROME PIPES, HEADER, AFTER MARTKET EXHUAST, NOLOGY WIRES, BIGGER PULLEY, AUTOMATIC TRANS (HAVE 2MORE TRANS TO GO W / CAR, ALL YOU NEED TO COMPLETE 5SPEED CONVERSION IS PEDAL BUCKET & SLAVE CYLINDER).»
I have changed the spark
plugs, wires,
fuel filter and pump, throttle positioning sensor, and done a complete clean out on my oil.
A main service (depending on mileage) includes an Oil and
filter change, pollen
filter,
plugs (if fitted), Air
filter,
fuel filter, removing wheels to access the braking system to visually check, check diagnostics, check all the electrics and then a road - test.
The lack of response to the accelerator pedal has quite a few potential causes that would have to be sorted out in a diagnostic including, just as a few examples,
plugged fuel injectors, faulty oxygen sensors,
fuel pump and / or
filter, vacuum leaks including that caused by a faulty EGR system, ignition system malfunctions, bad valve timing if the timing belt or chain is worn or skipped, blocked exhaust (e.g., catalytic converter fails or becomes clogged), a faulty airflow sensor or throttle position sensor, and so forth.
If the
fuel pressure is low, then either the
fuel filter is
plugged or the
fuel pump is not producing enough...
Loss of power on acceleration can be due to
plugged fuel injectors, faulty oxygen sensors,
fuel pump and / or
filter, vacuum leaks including that caused by a faulty EGR system, ignition system malfunctions, bad valve timing if the timing belt or...
Stalling at idle could be due to a faulty mass airflow sensor, faulty camshaft or crankshaft position sensors, worn spark
plugs, wires or defective ignition coil (s), inadequate
fuel delivery or pressure (clogged
fuel filter, injectors, faulty
fuel pump or pump...
The
fuel filter could be
plugged up causing the demand for
fuel flow to drop making the engine starve for
fuel when running at a higher speed.
;; The car is in perfect mint condition throughout.; Its totally Rustfree;; ALL THE SPEC BELOW is substantiated with it being physical or backed up with invoices.;; Particulars include but not limited to; -;; Toyota supra 6spd (2jz - gte) TT manual; TWIN HYBRID TURBOS; 1000CC red injectors; RPS MAX clutch; TRD dif; Aftermarket ECU; Lightened pulley kit; Walbro
fuel pump; Zex nos 0.32 wet NITROS kit; HKS Super Dragger stainless exhaust; Toad cat1 alarm with certificate; 2 keys; 2 alarm fobs; Approx 580bhp with a DYNO printout (432.8 b4 nos dyno print out); Toyota user manual; HKS S401 spark
plugs; Fitted with smart nav; Tracker fitted; Trust gear / handbrake covers; Rally r1 aluminium pedals; Road Angel also fitted; Cambelt done at 84000 miles; Valvoline oil used always; Trd oil
filter; V160 6 speed gearbox; Motul 75w90 diff oil; Greddy turbo timer; Electronically in dash controlled Tein coilovers fully adjustable; AVCR Apexi boost controller; Pioneer Dvd CD player; With upgraded door speakers; Twin glove box storage compartment; Slip control traction; Electric side mirrors; Remote locking; Electric front seat; Greddy temp dial; Blitz front mount intercooler with hard pipes; APEXI Air Filter; HKS Dumpvalve; Hks high performance ignition system; 18 ROTA light weight with nearly new tyres; Drilled vented and grooved discs with yellow stuff pads; Crystal Clear headlights (not faded); Veilside side skirts; Veilside rear spats;; PLEASE CALL ANYTIME 07565 211 101;; 7
filter; V160 6 speed gearbox; Motul 75w90 diff oil; Greddy turbo timer; Electronically in dash controlled Tein coilovers fully adjustable; AVCR Apexi boost controller; Pioneer Dvd CD player; With upgraded door speakers; Twin glove box storage compartment; Slip control traction; Electric side mirrors; Remote locking; Electric front seat; Greddy temp dial; Blitz front mount intercooler with hard pipes; APEXI Air
Filter; HKS Dumpvalve; Hks high performance ignition system; 18 ROTA light weight with nearly new tyres; Drilled vented and grooved discs with yellow stuff pads; Crystal Clear headlights (not faded); Veilside side skirts; Veilside rear spats;; PLEASE CALL ANYTIME 07565 211 101;; 7
Filter; HKS Dumpvalve; Hks high performance ignition system; 18 ROTA light weight with nearly new tyres; Drilled vented and grooved discs with yellow stuff pads; Crystal Clear headlights (not faded); Veilside side skirts; Veilside rear spats;; PLEASE CALL ANYTIME 07565 211 101;; 7 - DAYS
Rough idle can be caused by dirty
fuel injectors, incorrect idle speed, exhaust restrictions, vacuum leaks, incorrectly installed or damaged spark
plugs, a defective or clogged
fuel pump or
fuel filter, failing electrical components such as the ignition control module,...
;; SPEC INCLUDES BUT NOT LIMITED TO: -;; Date off first reg 01/04/1995; Date of import 28/10/2008; 1 previous owner; Last owner since 15/09/2014; Japanese service history; MOTD 29/06/2018 with no advisorys; New clutch fitted 3/6/16 timing belt also water pump fitted; Ngk laser platinum
plugs fitted; Import certificate; Stainless steel straight through; Exhaust; Nearly new tyres; 16 gold alloys; BC coil overs nearly new; Oil catch tank; Super air flow converter Apexi; Air
fuel ratio dials; Turbo boost gage; Removable steering with hijac lock fitted; Samco pedals; Pioneer 7tv Dvd screen with Bluetooth; Recaro folding seats; 4pot branch manifold; Apexi air
filter; Front mount intercooler with forge hard pipes; Forge blow off valve; Upgraded turbo; Relocated battery in boot;; Please do nt forget to look on our website for 50 plus detailed pics of this car including underbody pics.
The lack of response to the accelerator pedal has quite a few potential causes that would have to be sorted out in a diagnostic including, just as a few examples,
plugged fuel injectors, faulty oxygen sensors,
fuel pump and / or
filter,...
The old sparks
plugs were black and worn down.The hardest part was changing the
fuel filter.
Spark
Plugs - change (accordingly based upon stock heat range or colder if you are doing certain upgrades) Coolant - flush and change (every 120) MAF - Inspect and Clean if needed Thermostat -(change if indicated; see notes above) Air
filter - change or clean (see notes above) Fuel Filter - change and inspect entire fuel system Oil Fill Cap - check for leaking, install OEM Oil Filler Cap Rubber Gasket if
filter - change or clean (see notes above)
Fuel Filter - change and inspect entire fuel system Oil Fill Cap - check for leaking, install OEM Oil Filler Cap Rubber Gasket if ne
Fuel Filter - change and inspect entire fuel system Oil Fill Cap - check for leaking, install OEM Oil Filler Cap Rubber Gasket if
Filter - change and inspect entire
fuel system Oil Fill Cap - check for leaking, install OEM Oil Filler Cap Rubber Gasket if ne
fuel system Oil Fill Cap - check for leaking, install OEM Oil Filler Cap Rubber Gasket if needed
Air
filter, oil
filter,
fuel filter, spark
plugs, & spark
plug wires for a tune - up.