Consider aternating the two flasher lamps by controlling
a relay coil with the flasher and using the NO, NC contacts to alternate the load, current will be halved and will also be more constat as one switches of as the other turns on with only the one inrush current causing the voltage dip.
It gets defeated by the 12v coming out of
the relay coil.
The reason why you were probably told to use a Flyback Diode on pins 85 and 86 is because that is the proper way of protecting
the relay coil circuit of a run of the mill relay.
Since you can ground
the relay coil and the A / C works you can rule out a couple of things like the compressor clutch fuse, relay and wiring to the compressor clutch.
Not exact matches
I have changed the battery, fuel pump, fuel
relay (the one that mounts near the hood latch), spark plugs, ignition
coil, distributor cap and rotor button, and the electronic portion of the ignition switch.
There are new HT leads, ignition
coil pack, fuel pump and
relay.
the ignition
coil pin 1 and other sensors pull power from the efi
relay.
if you're only getting 8v at the
relay than the
coil either isn't closing or it is and something is causing draw on the system.
When the
coil inside the
relay burns, or the armature gets contaminated by something they can sometimes act up and look fine but will make that odd whining sound.
For most
relays (i.e. «dumb
relays»), the internal construction consists of a solenoid
coil that actuates an armature which connects and disconnects a circuit (based on the type of
relay).
Failing that, the
coil current on the
relay for the new HiD lights might be low enough that you could get away with putting a variable resistor between the 7/12 V wire and ground and then connecting the HID
relay to the wiper (the third, variable connection).
Some Examples: Air filter clogged Exhaust leak plugged cat clogged fuel injector malfunctioning fuel pressure regulator clogged fuel filter malfunctioning fuel pump spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor,
coil Vacuum leak dirty throttle body malfunctioning fast idle thermo valve (similar to vacuum leak) low oil (unless there is an oil level sensor) belts gaskets seals rings low compression bearing damage (rod knock) Broken cam rocker fell / broke off broken valve spring stuck valve critical engine damage (windowed the block) wiring, fuses,
relays starting system - ignition switch, starter,
relay Cooling system - clogs, leaks, flow (may throw a code if you overheat) transmission clutch (es) driveshaft, differential, axles brakes suspension tires hvac lights gauges
Yes the voltage is
relayed from the contact breaker on the front of the crankshaft, its the spring that causes the real voltage pulses inside the
coil box.
Attached to the end of the
coil is an interrupter or trembler, a magnetically operated switch or
relay, which repeatedly breaks the primary current to create flux (changes) in the transformer needed to produce high voltage.
I assume some heating from the
coil could be normal, but corroded contacts would also produce heating and one explanation for the codes could be the
relay dropping out.
The
coil resistance is about 145Ω when the
relay is cold and about 165Ω after the
coil has been energized for 30 minutes.
After about 30 minutes with the
coil energized, but no current on the switched contacts, with an ambient temperature of 18 ° C (measure with a K - type thermocouple on a DMM), I read a temperature of 25 ° C when the
relay is sitting on the thermocouple which is sitting on my desk.
Check if a freewheeling diode is installed (if possible) in parallel to
relay's
coil.
Front and rear wiper motor, transmission and linkage; power window motor; window regulators; power seat motor; steering column multi-function switch and individual switches for turn signal, headlamp, dimmer, wiper, washer and cruise control; clock spring / spiral cable; mirror motor switch; brake light switch; neutral safety switch; glove box light switch; courtesy light switch; cooling fan
relay; air control solenoid; air regulator valve; idle air control motor; electronic ignition module; ignition
coil; engine distributor including shaft, gear, bushings and modules; electronic throttle control; throttle position sensor; vehicle speed sensor; manifold absolute pressure sensor; knock sensor and barometric pressure sensor.
Other possibilities: A restricted fuel filter, a problematic fuel - pump
relay, and it may also be worthwhile to remove the
coil wire and inspect for corrosion that could cause a high resistance.
HVAC preventative maintenance, removal and installation of
coils (both condenser and evaporator), condenser fan motors, contactors,
relays, and fuses.