If
the rotors need to be turned or replaced, that is extra, as is tax and all other services.
Brakes and
rotors need to be replaced frequently and I have to keep a close eye on the tire pressure.
Bad
rotors need to be resurfaced or replaced to repair the problem.
The rotors need to be replaced when the pad wears into the rotor.
«A result of great interest was the capability of detecting a strike by any of the sensors installed on the three blades, an indication that not necessarily all of the blades of
a rotor need to be equipped with sensors to detect impacts,» he said.
For the braking system to work at its best, the mating surface on
the rotor needs to be as pristine as possible.
This would be
your rotors needing replacement, try braking hard from 50 km / h but not to the extent of hearing the tires squeal or reaching a complete stop, if you feel some vibration in the driving wheel then the rotors are pretty bad, if not, try the same thing from 100 km / h; if you feel vibration, the damage is somehow less but still needs changing.
When I last took my car into the shop, they said the brakes were worn and needed replaced and
the rotors needed resurfaced.
All pads and
rotors needed to be replaced.
The fuel pump regulator went out and cost $ 150 the front brakes were replaced last year & this year the front & rear
rotors needed replacing costing $ 450 & I still have squeaking.
2nd wk still pulling... took back to the dealer and they found that the left front tire was defective and replaced for free... 2) After ~ 13K miles vibration upon applying brake... dealer stated that
rotors needed to be «turned»... I was outside of 12K miles for what Hyundai calls «adjustments» and so had to pay 3) Dashboard cracked - KNOWN PROB WITH AZERAS - this was what was stated by dealer - My car is garaged and was so very disappointed / frustrated that yet another prob - replaced under warranty 4) Loud noise in Engine.
Not exact matches
Electricity generated by the
rotors travels down the tether, eliminating the
need for the massive cement towers holding traditional wind turbines.
Only this time, the
rotors would be mounted on posts above and below the wings, a configuration that would prevent them from stealing the air
needed to keep the machine aloft.
The Ka - 50
needs no tail
rotor: to turn the aircraft the pilot simply varies the torque supplied to the two main
rotors.
Ιf you һear a squealing sokund when үοu stp on үoᥙr brakes, it is lіkely tҺat yyou
need neԝ brwke pads ⲟr
rotors.
I've also seen people recommending using anti-sieze lubricant in - between the end of the axle and the
rotor, so it's easier to remove the next time the brakes
need to be done.
Brakes always
need to be bled after changing rear plate and
rotor.
In this case you will certainly
need new pads on both sides and possibly new
rotors (disks) if they have been scored by metal / metal contact.
«The mechanic's not lying: You do
need fully functional brakes, and the pads and
rotors aren't at their peak thickness levels.
Yesterday I went in for an oil change and during that service it was discovered that I
needed brake pads and front
rotors.
The caveat is if the
rotors are too thin and can not be turned, they will
need to be replaced.
Not really sure whether or not the calipers / pads /
rotors were really in bad enough shape that they
needed changing.
One of the original comments from the brake shop where I had this done was that the brakes had become partially engaged while driving due to the rust on the brake
rotors which was a partial source of the
need for the replacement.
Be aware that it might take a little time for the pads to adjust to the new
rotors so you may sometimes feel like you
need to apply more pressure on the pedal, that is completely normal.
Because the
rotor is spinning, devices known as slip rings are
needed to send uninterrupted current to the
rotor.
So, when you first get behind the wheel, you
need to pump the brakes several times to get the caliper piston to the point it is pushing the pad against the
rotor.
Now I am replacing the pads in four days when I can get to the auto shop but am
needing to work out how critical it is to replace the
rotor as well.
The standard stoppers — with Brembo front calipers — don't exactly fill out the wheels the way the pizza - sized
rotors of heavyweight performance machines do, but they don't
need to.
At the very least you
need to have the surface of the
rotor cut or you won't get proper bedding of your new pads (and further issues ensue).
You do not always
need to replace
rotors with pads, but it looks like you'll be replacing them next time at the latest.
I refused to bleed and flush unless
rotors were replaced and would most likely
needed a new master cylinder.
The previous poster have great examples of
rotors in
need of replacement but I worked as a mechanic for years and
rotors have become so cheap for most vehicles the easiest thing to do is replace them as paying someone to resurface often costs more on labor than buying new
rotors.
Surface rust typically rubs off the
rotors rubs just a bit of driving, but the BMW's
needed north of 200 miles before the brakes started sounding normal again.
The 13.2 - inch front brake
rotors and fixed four - piston calipers are so much larger than what's on the Cooper S that Mini
needed to tailor a new wheel to fit them.
Got the car for $ 800
needed pads and
rotors all around.
Rotors will always
need to be inspected.
Sounds like you
need brakes and
rotors, might as well do the whole car.
Eventually, I found out that the
rotors don't
need to be changed - just resurfaced.
Your brake system may
need to be adjusted, or you could be in
need to replace brake
rotors or pads.
The four front air intakes not only help reduce drag and lift in concert with the turbulence - fighting side gills and rear diffuser, but they also work to meet the increased cooling
needs of the eight - speed automatic transmission, high - performance ventilated brakes with cross-drilled
rotors, and revised 4.4 - liter twin - turbo V - 8 engine.
Squeals, squeaks and rattles are indications that your brakes
need attention, though they don't necessarily mean you
need new pads or
rotors.
The brakes — big AP
rotors with no ABS — are massively powerful, but feelsome too, which is handy as every downshift
needs some old - school heel - and - toe to match revs with road speed.
SMG gearboxes are expensive to replace also, valve clearance services
need to have been done, stock
rotors wear quickly depending on your driving style.
No, what you
need to do is check for the worn
rotor warning signs after you change your brake pads.
There is no
need for replacing the callipers together, as they will be heavy on your pocket, the reason why the pads and
rotors are replaced together is since they work in tandem and working by rubbing against each other.
Also note that starting a rotary cold and shutting it off before it reaches operating temperature is a slow death to a rotary as flooding (raw fuel being dumped into the
rotor housing) will cause excessive wear as the fuel washes away the oil it
needs.
I have a car that
needs $ 1500 for water pump and thermostat, (not mention brakes /
rotors and battery for another $ 1100 and I have yet to drive the car!!).
If you are in
need of brake pad replacement, brake
rotor repair, or brake caliper repair, contact the Audi service experts at our dealership near Schaumburg, IL.
This 1970 Chevrolet El Camino SS has a rotisserie restoration that includes the stock frame that has been powder coated, 396 V8 340hp, Richmond 6 speed manual transmission, G Force clutch, roller rocker and cam, stud gertel, cast iron heads with 219 intakes, duel 600 Edelbrock carburetor, Be Cool radiator, Wilwood 4 wheel disc brakes and
rotors, power windows and windwings, power locks, Vintage Air (
needs to be charged), AM / FM stereo, Kenwood sound system — amp and sub woofer, bucket seats with center console, new door panels, custom 3 ″ stainless steel dual exhaust with Patriot headers All Jet coated, 12 bolt posi rear end, 5 spoke chrome Foose Nitrous wheels, Global West suspension, QA 1 adjustable shocks, 3.5 ratio steering box, ASB electric brake booster.
They told me I only
needed rear pads and
rotors and fixed the noise which was a support bearing and covered under my power train warranty.