8) Trim and press open all seams, clipping the corners and snipping into
the seam allowance around top of the side strips for a neat finish.
There should be a 1/2 ″
seam allowance around the outside of the Pellon Peltex pieces.
Basically you are getting your fabric to match up with your comforter with a generous
seam allowance around.
Not exact matches
If you are using a bib you already have, you will need to add a 1/2 ″ all the way
around the bib when you make your pattern in order to allow for the
seam allowance.
The pattern has a 1/2 ″
seam allowance, but I only sew the full 1/2 ″
allowance along the inside curve of the neck so that the neck opening is roomy
around the baby's neck.
Now zip it half way — do not zip it closed — then line up the fabrics and using the regular foot on your machine, sew
around the other three sides of the square with a 1/2
seam allowance.
Trace
around the outer edges, making sure to add an inch or so for a
seam allowance.
Using 0.5 cm
seam allowance, starting from the point of the heart, sew
around the heart, leaving a gap of about 2 cm in one of the long sides — stay stitch (stitching forward and back a couple of stitches) at the start, end, and either side of the gap to secure the stitches
After sewing on your cradle stabilizer, baste your shelf bra to your swimsuit
around the cups with an 1/8 ″
seam allowance.
Starting on one side, sew all the way down and
around the bend and back up the other side, using a 1/4 ″
seam allowance.
Starting about 1/2 ″ from the bottom on one side, sew
around the entire edge of the bunny using a 1/4 ″
seam allowance.
Draw
seam and hem
allowances all
around and cut out pattern.
I just use a sewing machine with no thread and stitch
around with whatever
seam allowance I need and get a perforated edge.
One of these will need to go
around your waist so it'll be twice as long.Width of the strap is 2.5 cm (1 inch), so I'll have to cut it as 5 cm (2 inch) plus
seam allowance, as the strips will be folded, sewn, and then turned out.
Place the outer fabric and lining right sides together and sew
around all the sides with a 3/8 ″
seam allowance, but leave an opening in the bottom center about 2 ″ long.
With a 1/4 ″ inch
seam allowance, sew
around the squares leaving about 3/4 inch of an opening at the bottom.
Sew all the way
around the top of the bag with a 1/4 ″
seam allowance.
Stitch
around the curved edges with 1/4»
seam allowance.
Stitch
around the perimeter of the hexagon using a 1/4 inch
seam allowance.
Do a basic stitch
around three sides of the edges (leaving a slight
seam allowance).
Topstitch
around the outside with a 1/4 ″
seam allowance to enclose the raw edges.
Tack the pleats flat inside the
seam allowances (
around 1 cm from the raw edges) along the top and bottom.
On the thickest set I trimmed the
seam allowances differently on each fabric to reduce the bulk when they were turned the right way
around.
With a 1/4 ″ inch
seam allowance, sew
around the squares leaving about 3/4 inch of an opening at the bottom.
Using a 1/2 ″
seam allowance, and starting 2-1/2 ″ in on the 17 ″ side, sew all the way
around the pillow, stopping 2 ″ after you turn the last corner, leaving a 12 ″ opening.
I trimmed the fabric to the same size of the napkins, plus an inch all
around for
seam allowance — mind you, the napkins were not perfectly square, nor were they even the same size.
Finish your headband by top stitching
around the edge of the headband using a 1/8 inch
seam allowance.
Pin right sides together and sew
around (1/4»
seam allowance) matching the red dotted line of the pattern.
Stitch together using a 1/2 ″
seam allowance all the way
around leaving an opening large enough to insert the pillow form.
Sew
around all 4 edges of the rectangle using a 1/4 inch
seam allowance and making sure to leave a 1 to 2 inch gap between where you start sewing and where you end sewing so that you can flip your project right side out.
Now cut
around leaving about a.5 inch
seam allowance.