I added quite a large
seam allowance because I wanted mine to be slightly bigger than the jacket I used.
I simply took two pillow forms, cut two pieces of drop cloth one inch bigger on each side (I like 1»
seam allowances because I'm not a very good seamstress!)
Not exact matches
Either reason, it doesn't really matter in the end
because she, fortunately, included wide enough
seam allowances for me to make the necessary adjustments with no problems!
Because I was afraid of the hatband also being too small which would result in the hat sitting on the top of my head like a pancake (strangely enough... not the look I was going for), I measured my head and then cut my hatband out at that measurement +
seam allowance, sewed the hatband together at the sides, and tried it on to make sure it fit.
I don't allow for
seam allowances in a pillow cover
because I want my pillow form to fill the cover.
Because the fabric should fit snugly over the pillow form, this measurement includes a half - inch
seam allowance.
Personally, I find garments with back zips much easier to tailor, especially for beginners,
because you often can leave the zipper alone and tailor your garment based on the fabric in the side
seam allowances.
The reason I like to pin inside the
seam allowance, rather than exactly on top of the
seam stitch line, is
because this tape is a little inflexible.
Slot
seam allowances usually have to be widened (and adjusted if the slot
seam is spread),
because not only will they be topstitched away from the center, but there has to be enough fabric to finish off the
seam allowances cleanly, usually in tandem with the edges of the underlay, by serging or machine - overcasting.
It's important to use a 1/4 ″ SA here
because the zipper is 1 ″ wide, and if we use two 1/4 ″
seam allowances we are subtracting 1/4 ″ from each half circle but adding 1/2 ″ in the middle of the zipper.
Then I added a
seam allowance of an inch, which ended up being too big
because I wanted to get four stockings out of my drop cloth.