Sentences with phrase «seam allowance on»

To cover a pillow using the least amount of fabric possible, measure the pillow from seam to seam in each direction, then add a 1 - inch seam allowance on each side.

Lay the first two right sides together and do a basic stitch with a quarter inch seam allowance on one side to sew the two pieces together.

That will allow for a 1/4 ″ seam allowance on each side, and it should fit the width of the cardboard snugly.

A lapped seam is when you fold under the seam allowance on one side, and then topstitch it to the other side.

Each seamline is a place where you need to finish or hide the edges of the lace (since you can see through the lace to see the seam allowance on the inside) so the fewer times you need...

I then drew a straight waistband, which was 2» wide with 1/2» seam allowance on either side.

I sewed a long basting stitch to sort of trace out my seam allowance on the bodice and skirt so I knew right where the waist pieces needed to go.

Trim the seam allowance on your waistband and then fold the waistband up and press it smooth and flat.

Clip «V's into the seam allowance on all sides to stop the fabric pulling when it's turned right side out.

Now pin the left arm of the zipper tape to the seam allowance on the right.

I used 1/4 ″ seam allowance on these, and yes, it is included in the pattern size.

Note that all my measurements assume that you will use 1/4 ″ seam allowances on all sewing.

Cut pieces of fabric to fit the openings of your console, including seam allowances on all sides and enough fabric for a rod pocket.

Not exact matches

It's really cute... but I'm guessing I need to work on my seam allowances.

That's one thing I would recommend — if you fall in love with a vintage dress, always check on the seam allowances.

Now zip it half way — do not zip it closed — then line up the fabrics and using the regular foot on your machine, sew around the other three sides of the square with a 1/2 seam allowance.

Using my friend's notes and a tip on sewing the straps which I'll pass on below, I managed to finish Bubble in about 4 hours, a chunk of which was spent on tracing the pattern (the patterns come in several sheets as with the Burda magazine though with seam allowances!

Pin from buttonhole marker to the seam allowance edge (1 cm) on the opposite side.

After sewing on your cradle stabilizer, baste your shelf bra to your swimsuit around the cups with an 1/8 ″ seam allowance.

Because I was afraid of the hatband also being too small which would result in the hat sitting on the top of my head like a pancake (strangely enough... not the look I was going for), I measured my head and then cut my hatband out at that measurement + seam allowance, sewed the hatband together at the sides, and tried it on to make sure it fit.

The key with this step is that you want the seam allowance short enough so that when you turn and sew the seam on the opposite side (which I will show you in the next couple of steps), the seam allowance will not be sticking out, but not too short that the seam can break open.

Cut the hairs short on your seam allowance.

Hi Maria, you shouldn't do - depending on how wide your stay tape is you will likely trim the seam allowance down a few mm away from the edge of the tape.

Make sure there is extra seam allowance prior to purchasing if you plan on having it taken out.

One advantage to using the Renfrew pattern is that it includes seam allowances (though not on the sleeve which I cut in half at the shoulder then added the SA).

I simply took two pillow forms, cut two pieces of drop cloth one inch bigger on each side (I like 1» seam allowances because I'm not a very good seamstress!)

Starting on one side, sew all the way down and around the bend and back up the other side, using a 1/4 ″ seam allowance.

Starting about 1/2 ″ from the bottom on one side, sew around the entire edge of the bunny using a 1/4 ″ seam allowance.

The red line on the presser foot was my seam allowance guide.

We recommend sewing this top on an overlocker / serger - seam allowance is 3/8».

My Bernina came with a snap on table that has a fabric guide that slides to the seam allowance measurement as well as measurements on the table itself.

I also use a tape measure just to double check that the guide is positioned accurately by measuring from the needle for any seam allowance that is larger than what is make on the plate beneath the presser foot.

Understitch the lining back neck by folding the entire seam allowance to the lining side and sewing on the outer lining side close to the seam edge.

Personally, I find garments with back zips much easier to tailor, especially for beginners, because you often can leave the zipper alone and tailor your garment based on the fabric in the side seam allowances.

Thanks to generous seam allowances, my Bernina, and several cups of coffee on a Saturday, this beauty was ready to be transformed.

Seam allowance: The area between the edge and the stitching line on two pieces of material being stitched together.

STEP 7) Sew the pieces together, with slightly more than a 1 cm seam allowance to sandwich the crochet trim, and leaving a 4 cm opening, stay stitching on either side of the opening.

On mine, I've removed about 1/4 ″ by turning and stitching my centre back seam allowance.

You loses double your seam allowance joining the two pieces of fabric on the front.

The reason I like to pin inside the seam allowance, rather than exactly on top of the seam stitch line, is because this tape is a little inflexible.

Press seam allowance towards the lining / facing unit and understitch (straight - stitch on the right side through the facing and seam allowances close to the seamline) to keep the facing from rolling out of place.

I often move my needle over 1 position so it is closer to the seam allowance, just to make sure this stitching doesn't show after the facing is stitched on.

Draw a vertical line on the right side (RS) of your garment that is 1/8 of an inch more than the seam allowance for your garment.

Apply iron - on hem tape (I like Heat N Bond UltraBond Iron - on Adhesive) to one side of each fabric panel with the 7/8 ″ seam allowance.

to mark off an inch larger than the old pillow form to allow for seam allowance (or in this case, iron - on tape allowance).

Then I used my pinking shears on the my seam allowances.

I like my pillows fuller, so I cut my material to be the same size as my pillow insert — and add half an inch on all sides for the seam allowance.

If you have a curved headboard, you can lay the headboard on top of your fabric and trace it with a fabric pencil and then add 4 inches for the seam allowance.

To help keep everything all lined up nicely, I take a piece of painter's tape and mark a 1/2 inch seam allowance (using the guide on my machine).

Sew two long sides (with a very small seam allowance), leaving a 1 1/2 ″ gap unsewn on both top edges.