The Move controller just takes the place of the
right side of your controller, with all the button controls being the same, and just using the controller to aim.
While it is a system that works, occasionally the buttons can get in the way — particularly because aiming is mapped to the thumbstick on the
same side of the controller as the attack buttons (seriously, it's virtually impossible to hold one of the face buttons and use the right thumbstick to aim).
When your left hand predominantly controls your movement and your right hand controls your attacks, it's unwise to put attack buttons on the
left side of the controller.
The four face buttons and two shoulders are all of your abilities, and then bumper and trigger on
the side of the controller bring up the menu and map.
The shoulder buttons on the Power A controller are also placed closer together, which I prefer because it makes it easier to tap both buttons with one finger from each hand instead of relying on two fingers at the top of
either side of the controller.
Pushing the Enter buttons on
the sides of the controller worked like a mouse click.
Lexus also took away the Enter buttons, previously mounted on
either side of the controller, replacing that function with a push down on the controller.
Whacked on
the sides of the controller are two «pistol grips», which essentially just means two textured pieces of rubber, for a little bit of extra grip during those late night session.
In my case, this resulted in my holding down a button on one
side of the controller, and playing all of the incoming notes on the other side.
With Haptic feedback on
each side of the controller, the vibrations are measured in microseconds and every input from triggers to the pads is able to vibrate, providing force - feedback.
The Z - button has morphed into two shoulder buttons that sit on
either side of the controller, while other changes include turbo functionality and a circular joystick, as opposed to the octagonal joystick base found in original N64 controllers.
Having a Z - button on
either side of the controller is a good decision: we know it already works well on the Hori N64 Mini Pad, and, above all, it puts the choice in the player's hands.
Ridges on the back of
each side of the controller meld nicely with your hand, and once you get used to the unorthodox shape of the whole thing, it is pleasant and easy to use, not unlike the Wii's remote and nunchuck.
There are a couple of radial menus that pop out, one for the left
side of the controller the other for the right.
This new design adds prongs to
the sides of the controller and looks thicker and chunkier.
The Switch comes with the console itself, the two Joycon controllers, two Joycon wrist straps (which attach to
the sides of each controller, and also provide larger side buttons), the dock, the grip, a power adaptor and an HDMI cable.
The controls for the game involve using one stick and set of shoulder buttons, on
each side of the controller, for each foot.
You can clean the crease on
the side of your controller with a small screwdriver or anything else that can get in there.
The Steam Controller has two trackpads on
each side of the controller that pulse when your thumb moves along the surface creating a sense of control and letting you know how far away from the edge you are.
The Steam Controller has two trackpads on
each side of the controller that pulse when your thumb moves along the surface creating a sense of control and letting you know how far away from the edge you are.
The right
side of the controller is where things get weird, as well as potentially interesting.
This requires the player move their hand from the right
side of the controller, but activating that menu pauses the game's action anyway.
Unlike the original, the rubberized grips on
each side of the controller extend all the way around.