Sentences with phrase «side seam allowances»

Personally, I find garments with back zips much easier to tailor, especially for beginners, because you often can leave the zipper alone and tailor your garment based on the fabric in the side seam allowances.

I ended up with 3/8 ″ side seam allowances, which still allowed me to finish the edges with my serger, but just.

I also wanted to add the little pleat they have in the center front of the Anthropologie skirt, so I added extra inches to the side seam allowances and used that extra fabric to make a pleat in the center front.

There was so much glorious fabric in the seam allowance and darts of this dress, with a good 2.5 ″ in each side seam allowance, another 2 inches in each bodice dart, and 1.5 inches in the zipper.

Not exact matches

Fold strip of fabric lengthwise, right sides together, and sew with a 1/4» seam allowance, as shown in the photo.

you can just as easily sew a straight seam down each side with your regular sewing machine, using a 5/8» seam allowance.

Starting at the linen end, sew up the sides, leaving a 1 / 4 - inch seam allowance.

To sew rows: Put the backs (the fleece side) of the squares together and sew with a 1/2 inch seam allowance.

Now zip it half way — do not zip it closed — then line up the fabrics and using the regular foot on your machine, sew around the other three sides of the square with a 1/2 seam allowance.

Pin from buttonhole marker to the seam allowance edge (1 cm) on the opposite side.

Using 0.5 cm seam allowance, starting from the point of the heart, sew around the heart, leaving a gap of about 2 cm in one of the long sides — stay stitch (stitching forward and back a couple of stitches) at the start, end, and either side of the gap to secure the stitches

Then I sewed the lining to the kimono with right sides together along the bottom hemline and along the center front seams with a 1/2 ″ seam allowance.

Next, line up the bandannas right sides together and sew along the edge using a 1/4 inch seam allowance.

Pin the two pieces of fabric together, wrong sides facing each other and sew with a 1.2 cm (1/2 ″) seam allowance.

Because I was afraid of the hatband also being too small which would result in the hat sitting on the top of my head like a pancake (strangely enough... not the look I was going for), I measured my head and then cut my hatband out at that measurement + seam allowance, sewed the hatband together at the sides, and tried it on to make sure it fit.

The key with this step is that you want the seam allowance short enough so that when you turn and sew the seam on the opposite side (which I will show you in the next couple of steps), the seam allowance will not be sticking out, but not too short that the seam can break open.

Now stitch all four sides using a 1/4 inch seam allowance.

I simply took two pillow forms, cut two pieces of drop cloth one inch bigger on each side (I like 1» seam allowances because I'm not a very good seamstress!)

Sew each long side, using a 1/2 inch seam allowance.

Starting on one side, sew all the way down and around the bend and back up the other side, using a 1/4 ″ seam allowance.

Starting about 1/2 ″ from the bottom on one side, sew around the entire edge of the bunny using a 1/4 ″ seam allowance.

Hem both folded - under sides, leaving a 1 / 2 - inch seam allowance, with white outdoor thread ($ 4.99 for 200 yards; joann.com).

Press garment and one seam allowance to one side.

All raw edges are overlapped by 3/8» and side seams are also sewn together taking 3/8» seam allowance.

Fold piece C lengthwise in half and sew along the long open side using a 1/2 ″ seam allowance.

Understitch the lining back neck by folding the entire seam allowance to the lining side and sewing on the outer lining side close to the seam edge.

Sew the white triangles to the black triangles and press the seam allowance towards the black sides.

In this skirt, there wasn't quite as generous of seam allowances, with only about 1 ″ in each of the side seams.

STEP 7) Sew the pieces together, with slightly more than a 1 cm seam allowance to sandwich the crochet trim, and leaving a 4 cm opening, stay stitching on either side of the opening.

Place the outer fabric and lining right sides together and sew around all the sides with a 3/8 ″ seam allowance, but leave an opening in the bottom center about 2 ″ long.

Turn the waistband right - side out, tucking the extra seam allowance into the corner as best you can.

Sew a 1 ″ x 8 ″ strip of leather to the top, right sides together, with a 1/4 ″ seam allowance.

7) Sew the straight edges of the pocket lining pieces at a 1/4» seam allowance, leaving a small opening in the middle of your stitching line, for turning your pocket right side out.

Then turn them right sides out, press, and sew your seams with a 3/8 ″ allowance.

It's so easy, you just stitch the outer pieces to the underlining with right sides together along the vertical seams, using a 1/4 ″ seam allowance.

Clip «V's into the seam allowance on all sides to stop the fabric pulling when it's turned right side out.

Starting at the top of shorts, sew side seams together at 3/8 ″ seam allowance until you are 3 ″ from the bottom of the shorts.

Using a warm iron, press seam allowance to one side.

Press seam allowance towards the lining / facing unit and understitch (straight - stitch on the right side through the facing and seam allowances close to the seamline) to keep the facing from rolling out of place.

I then drew a straight waistband, which was 2» wide with 1/2» seam allowance on either side.

Draw a vertical line on the right side (RS) of your garment that is 1/8 of an inch more than the seam allowance for your garment.

A lapped seam is when you fold under the seam allowance on one side, and then topstitch it to the other side.

That will allow for a 1/4 ″ seam allowance on each side, and it should fit the width of the cardboard snugly.

Apply iron - on hem tape (I like Heat N Bond UltraBond Iron - on Adhesive) to one side of each fabric panel with the 7/8 ″ seam allowance.

I like my pillows fuller, so I cut my material to be the same size as my pillow insert — and add half an inch on all sides for the seam allowance.

With right sides together, pin and machine - stitch (1 cm seam allowance) along a 20 cm edge.

Lay the first two right sides together and do a basic stitch with a quarter inch seam allowance on one side to sew the two pieces together.

Do a basic stitch around three sides of the edges (leaving a slight seam allowance).

Sew two long sides (with a very small seam allowance), leaving a 1 1/2 ″ gap unsewn on both top edges.

The finished width of each side of the frame (after seam allowances are seamed together) is 6» wide.