A
"slave cylinder" is a component in a hydraulic system that helps control and transmit force or pressure. It is usually used in devices like brakes or clutches to allow them to work properly.
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I would advise you to perform this as it is quite cheap and a
leaking slave cylinder is your worst nightmare..
Dorman's
Clutch Slave Cylinder effectively returns hydraulic pressure to the clutch system, restoring the ability to shift properly again.
The Astra H has a concentric clutch
slave cylinder which means the gearbox has to be removed to replace it, 5 to 6 hour job.
Miatas of this age are known to develop leaks clutch
slave cylinder causing the inability to disengage the clutch to shift.
The 6 - speed manual transmission received a new flywheel, clutch, and clutch
slave cylinder during the IMS bearing replacement.
It's heavy, but that can be adjusted with a different clutch master cylinder and
slave cylinder bores — Mann prefers his on the heavy side (we do, too).
The rears were drum brakes (a technological backwards step from the 124, which used discs all round), utilising leading and trailing shoe design operated by a dual piston
fixed slave cylinder.
Toyota adopts
concentric slave cylinder (CSC); using a hydraulic cylinder to directly operate the clutch cover improves system rigidity, thereby optimizing clutch operation and reducing weight
The time of labor to remove and replace the
clutch slave cylinder on a 2003 Honda Element is about 3 and a half to 4 hours to replace including bleeding the hydraulic system.
You put a small amount of grease on the main contact points were the shoes / pads meet the brake calipers,
slave cylinders and shoe backplates.
Some component of the clutch mechanism degraded so that it is susceptible to cold - stiffening (clutch pedal, master - or
slave cylinder).
The clutch system consists of a reservoir with master cylinder, some tubing, and
a slave cylinder.
The slave cylinder applies a force to the throw out bearing which causes the clutch to...
I had to perform a panic stop, many years ago and the forces applied caused the seals on
the slave cylinder of one wheel to fracture and blow out, leaking all the brake fluid.
after doing some major repair work like you I had this problem for months, finally replacing everything, calipers pads, master /
slave cylinders, down to the hard lines and fittings... everything but the booster as that was the only thing it couldn't be... then just kept bleeding running 4 quarts of new fluid until they were useable... still not what they were new but...
Pushing the pedal forces a fluid into
the slave cylinder.
owned this car for 2 years now, have replaced transmission, clutch, 02 sensors, fuel filter,
slave cylinder, master cylinder, tires, alignment, tie rods, brakes, etc throughout the problems i love this... Read full review
Generally the leak is at
the slave cylinder, which is replaceable.
But when the clutch is pressed in
the slave cylinder goes back in.
I then attached
the slave cylinder and attempted to engage the clutch and shift.
Does this mean
the the slave cylinder is bad?
I have watched
the slave cylinder and it is moving.
Bad clutch install (mind you, it works just fine, though it feels as if
the slave cylinder isn't pushing quite far enough - can be «notchy» going into gear)
By removing the cable or
slave cylinder, you are ensuring the pressure plate isn't be held open.
The reason I ask about
the slave cylinder is I am thinking it might be possible it is not closing all of the way, very similar to a sticking brake caliper.
If its hydraulic, you might be able to remove
the slave cylinder.
also, do you suggest using a hand held pump like in the picture just for prime bleeding the cylinder or to bleed the valve on
the slave cylinder?
If this is a hydraulic clutch, either the clutch master cylinder or
the slave cylinder at the throwout is failing - more probably the master cylinder.
If it's cable - actuated then why does it have a master and
slave cylinder, that both take ye olde Dot 3 Brake Fluid?
Close nipple / valve on
the slave cylinder (see image below for an example of a slave cylinder, the «nipple» that is being referred to is brass colored)
If the throwout /
slave cylinder is worn or not operating correctly then the clutch will not fully disengage causing the clutch to drag and making it difficult to change gears without grinding.
Could be a problem with
the slave cylinder, or the master cylinder.
If you can remove
the slave cylinder (looks like 2 bolts) you can be sure the is not pressure holding the pressure plate open.
I also tried venting
the slave cylinder but, as I was pumping the clutch pedal, nothing was coming out of there after some initial emulsified spray.
Apart from NoCarrier's good point about the master cylinder, the other side might also be a problem:
the slave cylinder.
It turned out
the slave cylinder walls had developed rust, which gradually wore down the seals.
Additional info: clutch fluid is level and I bled
the slave cylinder, no help, I put a new clutch assembly on 2000 miles ago.
The seller notes a new battery, fuel filter, and oil change within the last six months as well as a fuel tank flush and replacement of the clutch master and
slave cylinders.
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