The only real place I'm seeing discoloration in the picture is around
the spark plug hole, not around the exhaust ports.
I have brought to magnetic tools and neither one will go through the small
spark plug hole.
If the head is attached, your leak down tester should have an attachment that screws into
the spark plug hole.
It basically gets down pulling a spark plug, getting that piston to Top Dead Center (TDC), threading the tester into
the spark plug hole, hooking up compressed air (at a minimum pressure), bringing the cylinder pressure up to a set amount, and then watching how quickly it comes down again, and if it settles anywhere.
Wet Test - With the spark plug removed, squirt about one teaspoon of 30 - weight motor oil into
the spark plug hole.
Pressurize the cylinder through
the spark plug hole at around 100 - 115psi.
The words you want to remember while setting the timing is top dead center ready to fire.You want both valves closed.They make a tool that inserts in
the spark plug hole that whistles as you rotate the crank to alert you that both valves are closed.Or put your thumb on it and feel the pressure.You want to be TDC on the compression stroke which is 180 degrees opposite of TDC of the exhaust stroke.Both TDC will read 0 on the crank timing ring.
Am I right in assuming that these two attachments can be jammed into
the spark plug hole without threading to perform a compression test?
Dry Test — Install the compression gauge into
the spark plug hole and crank engine over 5 - 10 revolutions.
So do you really think that the magnetic tool will have enough magnetic power to pull an small extension with 8 mm socket; up and out of
the spark plug hole.
Put petrol down
the spark plug hole making the bore wet with gasoline which helps move the piston faster will take 10 pulls after to first get running but will fire straight after tht every time
Well, everything is going fine until my extension comes off my socket wrench and falls into
the spark plug hole.
If this happened during a plug change If you have roadside assistance / towing, I would highly recommend getting it towed home, then purchase a cheap USB inspection camera or a inspection unit like this one from Harbor Freight and look inside
the spark plug hole to see if there is any remnants of the plug and any trauma to the exhaust value.
It basically gets down pulling a spark plug, getting that piston to Top Dead Center (TDC), threading the tester into
the spark plug hole, hooking up compressed air (at a minimum pressure), bringing the cylinder pressure up to a set amount, and...
After the compression test, though, I could see coolant seeping into the number 2 cylinder when looking down through
the spark plug hole.
I personally would not add the mixture directly in
the spark plug hole.
Basically anything that fits down
the spark plug hole and will be substantial enough to be removable without fear of breaking (e.g. maybe don't use dental floss).
An old trick for this is to remove a spark plug, then feed a length of string into the cylinder through
the spark plug hole, leaving enough string hanging out to pull it all out when done.
A few days later, when doing a compression test, steam came out of
the spark plug holes.
I've done the same thing working on carbs (tiny butterfly screws, for instance) and most effectively when helicoil or other thread insert work on
spark plug holes.
Not exact matches
There are but two valves per cylinder; twin
spark plugs per
hole help eliminate misfiring.
When you're done, remove the string by pulling it back out the
hole, and re-install the
spark plug.
But I've been wondering if theoretically some hydrogen from an old battery could pool up under a closed bonnet (assuming it has no
holes in it) and be ignited by old and frayed arcing
spark plug wire while driving slowly.
The problem I had with the center
hole and its odd threading / diameter I solved it by re threading it for a
spark plug:) I'll post photos when I start the «journey» next week.
The issue is that
hole has some weird diameter and threading: a
spark plug looks to have the same diameter, but the thread is like 1.25 however it fails to be such when I use the threads gauge.
The 5.4 Triton engine has a major problem with blowing the
spark plugs out of their
holes, resulting in high repair bills.