I pick it up a week later and was driving for the second or third time and Im on an on ramp getting on highway and im having a little fun and my wife heres a hissing noise
then my check engine light came on and stayed on.
Then the check engine light came on and they replaced a sensor.
Not exact matches
That's a bit like your mechanic telling you, «we'll just wait for smoke to start pouring out from under your hood, and
then we'll
check your
engine to see what is wrong.»
Check it directly at the battery with the
engine off,
then once started.
When the signal fails, the computer knows there's an issue with the coil or the ignition circuit and will send a fault code,
then notify the driver with the glorious
check engine light.
I filled it back up, and
then checked underneath the car the next day, and there is a small patch of what I assume is oil underneath the rear - right side of the
engine.
You can
check to see if it's doing it's job by running the
engine and seeing if the belt has a lot of flop (not sure how to describe this) when you rev
then quickly release the...
I currently have the Parking brake light, TRAC OFF, VSC TRAC, ABS, and
then just yesterday the
Check Engine light.
Sometimes
check engine light comes on at speeds between 130 - 150 km / h
then turns off when I slow down to below 130km / h
While all these replacements cleared the
check engine light to date, today I started to experience the revving again - which actually lasted for probably an hour of driving on the highway (even after letting the
engine rest for a couple of hours)-
then stopped temporarily - and
then ten minutes later resumed literally as I pulled into my driveway.
Barry Hart at Porsche
engine specialist Hartech takes up the story: «If the bearing fails
then generally the
engine will need rebuilding, but if the gearbox is out for a clutch change
then the bearing can be
checked and, if there is play, we can replace it without removing the
engine.
@musicwithoutpaper if you clean the
engine from oil, starting for the top
then start the
engine and
check for leak, it will be wet where the leak is.
After i bought it, i had
check engine lights on,
then i drove it to a mechanical shop few times...
After i bought it, i had
check engine lights on,
then i drove it to a mechanical shop few times and
then they discovered that MAF sensor wiring has disconnected and they reconnected it.
So the other day I was driving and my timing belt broke I tried to turn the key a few times
then tore off the valve cover and noticed that the timing belt was broken people have told me the
engine might be junk now how do I
check
I will
check it out the air leakage between the
engine and carburetor and
then let you know.
So what it's doing now is start off running good,
then about 15 minutes in it starts to run really rough, gets loud,
check engine light comes, it starts to sputter
then turns off.
The CARB OBD - II rules state that for most trouble codes the
check engine light should go off after two passed tests and
then the codes should erase from memory after 40 passed tests.
It is necessary to
check the
engine oil after the first 625 miles (1,000 km) and
then: — every 3,750 miles (6,000 km) replace oil.
Then one day it got so bad the
check engine light went on and stayed on.
Put that amount of fresh oil back into
engine - remembering to refit drain plug first:)
then check level and top up if necessary.
Then check your warm levels (
engine oil and transmission oil) and
check again for any leaks now that it's been running for awhile.
Hello I have something I can not figure out I know its a wiring problem... My
check engine light comes on
then brake and abs dash board go's dim and mileage and clock resets
then my headlight on passenger side keeps going on and off dim only bright works great.
Also if it's really dirty, perhaps it's never been cleaned, wash your
engine bay,
then check again in the future (days or weeks or so, assuming you don't find a solution before
then) to see if any oily film returned.
The oil can leak slowly enough to not be immediately apparent, and
then burn off / end up on the road / or just end up in the
engine compartment (e.g.
check your
engine bay, if there's a film of oil on
engine block it could be indicative of failing seals / gaskets).
the compression (
engine internal, if you are newbie
then this should be the last item to be
checked, preferably by a mechanic).
Recently my car's
check -
engine light came on, I used a car OBDII port code reader to get the diagnostic - trouble - code (DTC) and
then I googled what the DTC meant.
After fully releasing the accelerator and
then engaging it again the
engine will work as before, and the
check engine light turns off.
But, if you also have this noise when driving
then the areas you need to
check are:
Engine Knock Sensor failure, engine coolant level / overhe
Engine Knock Sensor failure,
engine coolant level / overhe
engine coolant level / overheating.
I'd suggest
checking engine vacuum
then maybe doing a leak down test if
engine vacuum appears abnormal.
Then when the
check engine light came back on, they tried to say it was a different problem again until we complained to someone higher up who admitted that it was the same error and refunded out money.
If you were low on coolant and oil
then you may have overheated the
engine and blew a head gasket and would need to have the
engine pressure tested to
check for bad head gaskets.
If
check engine light still comes on
then have codes
checked again to see if additional codes for misfires are stored?
If the filter
checks out okay
then you may be having another issue that is causing the
engine to...
If you need further assistance with the
check engine light on,
then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.
If you have a
check engine light on
then have it tested to see what fault codes are present.
Using those codes, the appropriate individual vehicle components or sub-systems (often a sensor, circuit, and the like) are
then carefully tested, based on specifications set forth in your car's Factory Service Manual, to pinpoint the cause of the fault or the reason why the
check engine light has illuminated.
If you are hearing a gurgling noise and your heater is not providing heat,
then I would
check the
engine's coolant.
Since you have replaced the speed sensor and your vehicle is still giving you the
engine light code P0720 for the speed sensor circuit malfunction,
then you would need to
check the circuits from the speed sensor to...
If the
engine light is on and the
engine is sputtering,
then you will want to
check the following areas to locate the source.
If the line and brake booster
check valve are good and sealed,
then get a stethoscope (without the end only the tubes) and
check for any hissing air around the clamped areas of the brake booster and by the firewall near the brake booster while the
engine is running.
If you have a
check engine light on
then you may have an
engine computer code stored pointing to the problem.
Ah,
then I turned the key — our tester lacked push - button start — and was immediately hit with a rough idle followed very shortly by a «
check engine» light.
Also, the
check engine light came on, and we stopped to put in oil, and it still remained on and
then turned off after some time.
If the system detects a very small leak during the test
then the ECM stores the code and waits till a second test can be done and if that test detects a very small leak
then the ECM stores the code P0456 and turns on the
check engine light.
If the
engine is running rough
then it needs to be
checked fro any misfires or
engine codes.
Then, a thorough
engine component and system condition
check verifies that all plugs, filters,
engine mounts and belts are operating at maximum performance.
so
then I
checked the big three, each and every maker has
engine problems at one time or another.
Performance figures for the other
engines will be announced closer to launch, so you'll have to
check back
then.
The diagnostic tool feature of the WatchDog allows users to read, diagnose and
then erase
check engine lights and trouble codes.