Sentences with phrase «then ignition»

If the test indicates 0.0, then the ignition interlock will not activate and will allow them to start the car.

If the fuel pump is new I would move on to checking the battery, and then ignition system.

plug it in to the OBD2 port (wherever that happens to be on that vehicle) then ignition on and read the codes - but one has to navigate the menu system which may depend on the reader manufacturer...

This means the solenoid that locks the column to stop the wheel turning is faulty, after it receives the unlock command from the electronic ignition switch it tells the ignition switch it is unlocked and then the ignition switch enables the ignition.

If it was running fine before and now you're getting misfires then the ignition sequence could definitely be wrong as CharlieRB is suggesting...

Not exact matches

Then I discovered that the ignition was on, though the motor had stopped.

For an electric oven or a gas oven with the electronic ignition, heat the oven at the lowest setting for one or two minutes, then TURN IT OFF.

The prosecutor commented as he announced General Motors was charged criminally with failing to disclose and then misleading consumers about the defective ignition switches.

In fact, speaking of other positive things in Stuntman Ignition the mini-games and the Xbox Live support are actually quite a bit more entertaining then what we saw in the career mode.

Sounds to me like you have a fuel delivery problem, if it runs with starter fluid then the injectors are working and ignition is fine.

The safest way to disable the electrical system is to first turn off the ignition so that minimal currents are flowing, then disconnect the «earth» lead from the battery.

I've no idea what this component is but suspect if it's running whilst the ignition is off then it will be constantly draining the battery.

If it doesn't fire then I'd check / service ignition, carbs etc..

Your comment got me thinking about the ignition switch though, so I ended up replacing that, and things have been absolutely perfect since then.

When the signal fails, the computer knows there's an issue with the coil or the ignition circuit and will send a fault code, then notify the driver with the glorious check engine light.

The only way to fix is to put the car in park and then turn the engine back on turning the key in the ignition.

What also existed then was the electronic ignition system.

Here's a bonus oddity: If I turn the lights on without ignition, and someone closes or opens a door, then the green dashboard cluster illumination temporarily dims and then, after half a second, returns to being fully illuminated.

As far as my research shows the ign switch is fed form the main panel (40a fuse) under the hood (near battery) directly to the ignition switch, then goes through the neutral safety switch to the starter, no theft deterrent intervention.

I brought it to a main dealer and thankfully the issue happened on them but they could not establish a connection and communicate with the ECU whenever green key was flashing, Strangely after numerous attempts putting the key into the ignition trying to start And whenever it accepted the key and allowed the car to start the diagnostic would communicate with the ECU and then scan would say no immobiliser faults??

I was getting some bad kickback on hot starts, so I installed an ignition kill switch so I could get the starter spinning, then hit the ignition and not get kickback.

If you will be needing lots of power then use the ignition wire to switch a relay with battery power, not to provide power itself.

Check between your power and ground, if you have infinite resistance on your multimeter then the contacts for providing the power could be bad and an ignition switch replacement is needed.

Car always has 10 - 12 degrees of ignition timing at idle on cold start then progressively drops to 0 degrees ignition timing at idle once reaching full operating temperature and engine fan cuts in.

@MeltingDog, if by flooding you mean that the air - fuel mixture is too rich for ignition to take place then yes, that is the hypothesis.

The loose battery may have shorted to the frame killing the ignition power and then moving away restoring things to normal.

GM then announced in February 2014 that it would recall certain vehicles for the ignition switch defect, but had failed to notify NHTSA of this defect when the vehicles were previously investigated.

If you notice that the PRNDL light goes out when it happens, then check the ignition switch.

Weather not be means give ignition by scrolling the key to start position and keep on stamping the accelerator for a min and then give start it will start, if not means you want to give service to workshop

Electrical / Ignition Switch: If there other two items appear fine, then you might need to look to your ignition switch or something else on the electrical end that could just be having trouble in tIgnition Switch: If there other two items appear fine, then you might need to look to your ignition switch or something else on the electrical end that could just be having trouble in tignition switch or something else on the electrical end that could just be having trouble in the cold.

I put a new solenoid on, it worked good at first then started clicking a lot, then stuck open so when I got home and turned ignition off it wouldn't stop turning engine over, so solenoid and starter were still live.

The black wire comes from the safety laynard, connects to the ignition and then goes to the CDI box ground.

The white wire comes from the safety laynard, connects to the ignition and then goes directly to the CDI Unit.

Then you turn the ignition key located to the left of the wheel — echoing the days when Le Mans racers twisted the key with their left hand and selected a gear with the right to save time — and wuuum!

That is right, If the engine is not starting due to no ignition (maybe flooded or faulty ignition), but the injectors or carb is fueling, then the fuel will be getting blown out of the exhaust ports.

Then i stopped, switched the ignition off and checked my tire pressure for maybe 2 minutes.

Then in progressed to an outright stall that restarted when I keyed up the ignition.

If you have a flat dead scenario here, then you need to check the ignition key.

After a few times turning the ignition on and off, I disconnected the battery, then connected it back and all of a sudden the bike started normally.

I would recommend turning off the ignition, disconnecting both cables from the battery, then hold them together for a few minutes.

I tried first with ignition totally off (key out) I guess, then position 1 and finally pos.

Grasp the chrome ball - topped gearlever and give it a wiggle to confirm it's in neutral, then prod the unmarked and slightly squidgy rubber - wrapped ignition switch.

A new ignition and fuel map to suit the more powerful engine is then controlled by BBR's Starchip / ECuTeK RaceRom software, with the turbo's boost set to 7psi.

I've also read various recommendations for removing surface charge such as turn on the brights for thirty seconds, disconnect the ignition and crank the engine for fifteen seconds, turn on your load tester for 15 seconds, turn it off then take a reading after a further 10 seconds of load, or leave the battery sitting overnight for twelve hours.

My cousin told me when he enter his car, he put the key to ignition then count to 3 and start the engine.

The engine can then be started and switched off using the electronic ignition switch.

If the misfire is only on that cylinder, then it may have a bad spark plug or ignition coil.

Push Speedback GT's ignition button and its beating heart bursts to life, first with a raspy growl, then settling down into the low rhythmic rumble, characteristic of its supercharged V8 configuration.

If you have a misfire then you may have an ignition coil that may need to be replaced due...

If you first turn on your ignition and then turn it off and on and wait two seconds between and do this three times.